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C3 door lock jammed Help please

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Old 08-15-2007, 01:56 PM
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sbibeau
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Default C3 door lock jammed Help please

Hi All,
I know there has been discussion on this before but most people have found just dirt to be the problem.
My lock mechanisim will not move to the fully unlocked position.
It moves about 3/4 of the way and stops. I tried pushing on the mechanism with a rod and its for sure hiting a dead end. I even hit the rod with a hammer. Its Stuck.... I removed the link to the inside lock **** to eliminate that. I cleaned and oiled the latch mechanism. it appears clean and free but it wont go to the full unlocked position.

Any advice is appreciated.
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Old 08-15-2007, 02:24 PM
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Be very careful with the hammer, you can end up jamming the thig permanantly. Spray it full of some kind of liquid lube, PB Blaster is a good one. Wiggle the lock rod back and forth and try the latch.
If that does not get you unlocked, you need to remove the seat and the door panel, spray it down some more and use a screwdriver to lift the lock rod on the latch
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Old 08-15-2007, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by sbibeau View Post
Hi All,
I know there has been discussion on this before but most people have found just dirt to be the problem.
My lock mechanisim will not move to the fully unlocked position.
It moves about 3/4 of the way and stops. I tried pushing on the mechanism with a rod and its for sure hiting a dead end. I even hit the rod with a hammer. Its Stuck.... I removed the link to the inside lock **** to eliminate that. I cleaned and oiled the latch mechanism. it appears clean and free but it wont go to the full unlocked position.

Any advice is appreciated.
power door locks? if so a bad actuator can cause
this.
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Old 08-15-2007, 03:46 PM
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Easy Mike
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Lock or latch? Door won't open (latch) or it will not lock/unlock?

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Old 08-18-2007, 09:36 AM
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sbibeau
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Default Door lock wont unlock :(

Hi and thanks for the responses.
I am going to try to get the door panel off today.
to answer the questions asked so far.
1) it is a manual door lock.
2) I did hit it with a hammer but not that hard.... OOPS
3) It sure looks like the Lock mechanism thats jammed cause the one on the other side can move a greater distance than the jammed one.
Please if you have any other ideas I would like to hear as I am not successful yet.
OH is there anyway to remove the actual PIN the pin that the door latch connects to?? not sure what that pin is called. its the large post the latch grabs.
thanks again
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Old 08-18-2007, 10:20 AM
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Fill out your profile you might have someone living in your area that knows that car.....And would be glad to help.
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Old 09-09-2007, 05:51 PM
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I'm having the same problem with my 71. It moves about 3/4 of the way and stops before unlocking. I took the door panel off and after some poking around with a screw driver the door unlocked. After doing that with the screw driver I can now lock and unlock the door (not sure what I did to help the situation). However when i go to unlock it still sticks a little and I'm afraid it's going to get stuck again. I sprayed some WD40 in there when the door panel was off and that didn't seem to do much. Anything else I can try to fix this....or do i need to purchase a new door lock latch assembly?



Thanks,
Paul
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Old 04-01-2008, 03:16 PM
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Bump!

I'm having the same problem with my '77 - the latch itself has jammed closed, and now can't be opened. In my case, something may have snapped or come loose inside the locking mechanism, as the usual process of lube/wait/play around with a screwdriver won't work.

If anyone knows a way I can undo this sucker, I'd love to know. Otherwise I'm going to just have at it with a dremel and cut the latch...
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Old 04-01-2008, 04:16 PM
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If you just give up on opening the mechanisim, you can pull the drivers seat out, pull off the door panel for better access and use a hacksaw blade from inside the passenger compartment to chop off the striker post. No paint damage if you are reasonably careful. The striker is cheap and easy to replace.

Once you do get the door open you will want to clean out the old grease and dirt from the mechanisim. That is the culprit here. This is a common problem with these old cars.

-Mark.
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Old 04-01-2008, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by sbibeau View Post
Hi All,
I know there has been discussion on this before but most people have found just dirt to be the problem.
My lock mechanisim will not move to the fully unlocked position.
It moves about 3/4 of the way and stops. I tried pushing on the mechanism with a rod and its for sure hiting a dead end. I even hit the rod with a hammer. Its Stuck.... I removed the link to the inside lock **** to eliminate that. I cleaned and oiled the latch mechanism. it appears clean and free but it wont go to the full unlocked position.

Any advice is appreciated.
I had the same thing happen to my son's 1975. What I found to be the problem was that the rod that runs from the exterior door handle to the latch needed to be adjusted. What happens is when the rod from the exterior door handle is not just right, and it puts a little pressure onthe latch, it will not let the door lock operate properly. It will also cause the door to not open after it is shut sometimes. Try pulling the door panel off and disconnecting the rod that runs to the exterior door handle. Once you have it loose, try operating the door lock and I'll bet you will find that it works properly. If that's the case, then all you have to do is get the rod that runs to the exterior door lock adjusted properly. I would suggest getting everything adjusted and put back together and try it a few times before you put the door panel back on just in case it locks up on you and won't open. It is much easier to actuate the door lock mechanism to open the door when the panel is not on the interior of the door. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
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Old 04-01-2008, 05:25 PM
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I think that's the way to go. The doors on this thing are a rusted horror - Bubba left it sitting with the windows open for a few months, then stripped the thing for whatever he needed to fix something else. Each door is missing assorted panels, struts, and so on, and they're rusty and dirty as hell. I'm probably going to have to do a major rebuild anyway...



Originally Posted by stingr69 View Post
If you just give up on opening the mechanisim, you can pull the drivers seat out, pull off the door panel for better access and use a hacksaw blade from inside the passenger compartment to chop off the striker post. No paint damage if you are reasonably careful. The striker is cheap and easy to replace.

Once you do get the door open you will want to clean out the old grease and dirt from the mechanisim. That is the culprit here. This is a common problem with these old cars.

-Mark.
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Old 04-01-2008, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by LSH77VETTE View Post
I had the same thing happen to my son's 1975. What I found to be the problem was that the rod that runs from the exterior door handle to the latch needed to be adjusted. What happens is when the rod from the exterior door handle is not just right, and it puts a little pressure onthe latch, it will not let the door lock operate properly. It will also cause the door to not open after it is shut sometimes. Try pulling the door panel off and disconnecting the rod that runs to the exterior door handle. Once you have it loose, try operating the door lock and I'll bet you will find that it works properly. If that's the case, then all you have to do is get the rod that runs to the exterior door lock adjusted properly. I would suggest getting everything adjusted and put back together and try it a few times before you put the door panel back on just in case it locks up on you and won't open. It is much easier to actuate the door lock mechanism to open the door when the panel is not on the interior of the door. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

This same thing happened to mine. Same fix.
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Old 04-02-2008, 11:39 AM
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First of all, buy a new latch mechanism, or while your at it buy two, one for each door. (The internal levers in the mechanism are stamped steel, about 0.070 inches thick. The levers can get bent easily. Also, the levers rotate on shafts that have no realbearing surfaces. Dirt will eventually grind the clearances apart, creating some slight jambing that means with some forceful use of the unlock or door open levers will cause them to bend and jamb completely.)

A long time ago, there was a posting showing photos of how you could insert a screw driver into the old latch and make it unlock. With the window rolled down, the window slot opening makes it possible to insert a long thin screwdriver into the latch mechanism. If you buy a new latch, you can hold it in your hand and manually activate the locking and opening mechanisms. You'll be able to see which lever it is you have to push to open with a screwdriver. Also...to get my locked shut door open, I opened the other door, removed the inside panel and could see this latch. I practiced on the good door to learn how to use the screwdriver to open it and then used the same technique on the locked door. I took about 10 minutes of probing to get it open.
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Old 04-03-2008, 10:06 PM
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I'm with LSH77vette and AKTbird; My drivers door (75 coupe) would lock but not unlock. Took everything out, cleaned it ,oiled it, examined it and put it back together. Still got locked out or in, depending on which side of the door I was on. Started playing with the rod adjustments and ended up shortening the stroke on the outside opening handle and magically the problem went away. I was ready to buy a new latch assembly; glad I didn't.
Mike
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Old 08-17-2008, 08:04 PM
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This has happened to me several times.

To prevent the problem, when turning the lock **** to lock if you feel a bit of an abrupt resistance, then unlock the **** and lock it again until it locks smoothly before you shut the door.

If you find yourself locked in and the **** won't unlock beyond about 3/4 of the normal twist, then try pulling sharply on the inside door handle (as if opening the door) while simultaneously trying to twist the **** to unlock. Eventually it will unlock.
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Old 08-18-2008, 02:52 AM
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Update :

The passenger side lock came free after a lot of time, patience, and WD-40, but the driver side was completely seized up. In the end I just pulled off the door pad (literally pulled it off - it was rotted so bad only the trim was holding it together), then used a cold chisel to smack down the release tab on the lock.

New locks in place, lubricated, working perfectly.
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Old 05-16-2012, 08:42 AM
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You were exactly right. I had this problem and could not come up with anything...you were a life saver...thanks for sharing!




Originally Posted by hawaii75stingray View Post
This has happened to me several times.

To prevent the problem, when turning the lock **** to lock if you feel a bit of an abrupt resistance, then unlock the **** and lock it again until it locks smoothly before you shut the door.

If you find yourself locked in and the **** won't unlock beyond about 3/4 of the normal twist, then try pulling sharply on the inside door handle (as if opening the door) while simultaneously trying to twist the **** to unlock. Eventually it will unlock.
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Old 05-16-2012, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by kdvector View Post
You were exactly right. I had this problem and could not come up with anything...you were a life saver...thanks for sharing!
Shame, shame kdvector for dredging up this 3+ year old thread. You must not have known, like me, that doing so is against the forum rules.
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Old 06-08-2014, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by LSH77VETTE View Post
I had the same thing happen to my son's 1975. What I found to be the problem was that the rod that runs from the exterior door handle to the latch needed to be adjusted. What happens is when the rod from the exterior door handle is not just right, and it puts a little pressure onthe latch, it will not let the door lock operate properly. It will also cause the door to not open after it is shut sometimes. Try pulling the door panel off and disconnecting the rod that runs to the exterior door handle. Once you have it loose, try operating the door lock and I'll bet you will find that it works properly. If that's the case, then all you have to do is get the rod that runs to the exterior door lock adjusted properly. I would suggest getting everything adjusted and put back together and try it a few times before you put the door panel back on just in case it locks up on you and won't open. It is much easier to actuate the door lock mechanism to open the door when the panel is not on the interior of the door. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
I had the same problem on my 75. Thanks for your account because it was spot on! The exterior handle rod needs to be adjusted to be almost too long otherwise the lock mechanism will not function properly once everything is tightened. Every time the lock would work fine until I tightened the latch mechanism to the door frame. Once tightened, the rod from the exterior handle would then put a little pressure (almost unperceivable) on the latch mechanism causing it to not work. Give the exterior handle rod a couple twists to lengthen it and bingo - Works perfectly!

Thanks Again!
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Old 06-08-2014, 08:39 PM
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Wow, yet another ancient blast from the past.
Decent thread and good info
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