Bouncy Headlights?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Dumont New Jersey
Bouncy Headlights?
My headlights are set nicely but when I hit bumbs and such the entire Headlight and bezel shakes a bit much.
Would the 4 new tension springs solve this or is it something else?
Would the 4 new tension springs solve this or is it something else?
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,891
Likes: 2
From: Baltimore MD
Seriously the AIM talks about a "STOP" screw adjustment (well it doesn't call it exactly that, but that's the idea I get from what it is suppose to do). However, either my buckets are replacement buckets or the 81 didn't have these Screw adjustments. The "L" bracket is there but no screw hole and no screw with a rubber head. 
This bucket keeps beating the living sh*t out of my beautiful custom paint job I had done!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Dumont New Jersey
However I am looking at the COrvette Central C3 book at the headlight parts section and see the adjuster screws listed.
Do they work by creating MORE tension on the spings???
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,891
Likes: 2
From: Baltimore MD
If you are talking about the single screw with a rubber cap that hits a "back stop", which my 81 seems to have deleted, I would think they dampen vibration by making contact with the back stop, the rubber absorbs the shocks
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,943
Likes: 44
From: Florham Park NJ Port Credit Ontario
There is a bracket on the side of the housing called the headlight stop bracket. This bracket is L shaped. On one end of the bracket is an adjustable bolt that can be made to make contact with the headlight housing when the lights are in the open position. This bolt can be adjusted to add more or less tension on the stop bracket thus eliminating bouncy lights.
Go Here: http://www.docrebuild.com/dr-r-web/HDLAMP2.PDF
Scroll down to the exploded diagram of a 68-82 headlight Housing. The parts are listed as H (L shaped bracket) and J (adjusting screw)
Go Here: http://www.docrebuild.com/dr-r-web/HDLAMP2.PDF
Scroll down to the exploded diagram of a 68-82 headlight Housing. The parts are listed as H (L shaped bracket) and J (adjusting screw)
Last edited by Stewart's74; Aug 21, 2007 at 12:30 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,891
Likes: 2
From: Baltimore MD
There is a bracket on the side of the housing called the headlight stop bracket. This bracket is L shaped. On one end of the bracket is an adjustable bolt that can be made to make contact with the headlight housing when the lights are in the open position. This bolt can be adjusted to add more or less tension on the stop bracket thus eliminating bouncy lights.
Go Here: http://www.docrebuild.com/dr-r-web/HDLAMP2.PDF
Scroll down to the exploded diagram of a 68-82 headlight Housing. The parts are listed as H (L shaped bracket) and J (adjusting screw)
Go Here: http://www.docrebuild.com/dr-r-web/HDLAMP2.PDF
Scroll down to the exploded diagram of a 68-82 headlight Housing. The parts are listed as H (L shaped bracket) and J (adjusting screw)
The back stop is there, the "L" shaped bracket on the bucket is there, there is no "Screw hole" drilled in the "L" shaped bracket and of course there is "NO SCREW" with a rubber cap. So either I have after-market buckets on both sides, which I find hard to believe or they were eliminated in or around 1981 for some strange reason.
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Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,795
Likes: 1
guys before you start adjusting things just a little heads up,
there are 4 springs used on each headlight assembly
if any of these are missing you will loose tension
my passengers side headlight was driving me nuts on
every bump, after pulling the headlight bezel i found 3 of the 4 springs broken or gone.
the springs are pictured on the docrebuild link above under headlamp
linkage
there are 4 springs used on each headlight assembly
if any of these are missing you will loose tension
my passengers side headlight was driving me nuts on
every bump, after pulling the headlight bezel i found 3 of the 4 springs broken or gone.
the springs are pictured on the docrebuild link above under headlamp
linkage
Last edited by 1Z87L8; Aug 21, 2007 at 01:30 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Dumont New Jersey
guys before you start adjusting things just a little heads up,
there are 4 springs used on each headlight assembly
if any of these are missing you will loose tension
my passengers side headlight was driving me nuts on
every bump, after pulling the headlight bezel i found 3 of the 4 springs broken or gone.
the springs are pictured on the docrebuild link above under headlamp
linkage
there are 4 springs used on each headlight assembly
if any of these are missing you will loose tension
my passengers side headlight was driving me nuts on
every bump, after pulling the headlight bezel i found 3 of the 4 springs broken or gone.
the springs are pictured on the docrebuild link above under headlamp
linkage
I will go forward in those steps.
CHECK to see if the springs are there and in place.
Try tightening the adjustment screw.
If it is better then I am done, if still bouncing I will order the 4 new springs(only$10.00)
Sounds like a plan!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,485
Likes: 7
From: Peekskill NY
OK- So my ORIGINAL idea to check/replace the springs may still hold true.
I will go forward in those steps.
CHECK to see if the springs are there and in place.
Try tightening the adjustment screw.
If it is better then I am done, if still bouncing I will order the 4 new springs(only$10.00)
Sounds like a plan!
I will go forward in those steps.
CHECK to see if the springs are there and in place.
Try tightening the adjustment screw.
If it is better then I am done, if still bouncing I will order the 4 new springs(only$10.00)
Sounds like a plan!
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 407
Likes: 0
From: Fort Washington PA
My passenger side light bounces around and I noticed that one of the bearing housings was missing a plastic collar allowing the pivot stud to move freely. If I remember correctly, it's been about 1.5 years since I looked at it. I have the part but haven't fixed it yet, time and money, if I have one, I don't have the other. 
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,359
Likes: 57
From: Mundelein Illinois
My drivers side headliight was bouncing and I was told I needed a new housing.
This is a diagram for a 81 which I think is no different than any other year than 68.
At the end of the actuator rod you will see threads. You need to remove all the springs and remove the pivot ball on the end of the rod. If you turn the ball counterclockwise the ball should move outwards. Try turning it two or three times. Replace it and see if housing still bounces. If it doesn't bounce your done. If it does, then try another turn till you get it right.
Make sure headlight housing is secure to body, I have seen bolts missing from collision or just driving the car over time. Make sure springs are good and that actuator is good. If all of this is fine the above will work. It will be hard to get rod back through pivot ball. If the rod just slides in to the pivot ball, it will bounce. Once you have tension on the headlight so it will not bounce. You will not hurt actuator.
In this diagram you will see the stopper rod. Look at bolt number 2
Make sure this is in place. There is a small adjustment on this. With headlight up make sure end of stopper hits housing.
Good Luck
This is a diagram for a 81 which I think is no different than any other year than 68.
At the end of the actuator rod you will see threads. You need to remove all the springs and remove the pivot ball on the end of the rod. If you turn the ball counterclockwise the ball should move outwards. Try turning it two or three times. Replace it and see if housing still bounces. If it doesn't bounce your done. If it does, then try another turn till you get it right.
Make sure headlight housing is secure to body, I have seen bolts missing from collision or just driving the car over time. Make sure springs are good and that actuator is good. If all of this is fine the above will work. It will be hard to get rod back through pivot ball. If the rod just slides in to the pivot ball, it will bounce. Once you have tension on the headlight so it will not bounce. You will not hurt actuator.
In this diagram you will see the stopper rod. Look at bolt number 2
Make sure this is in place. There is a small adjustment on this. With headlight up make sure end of stopper hits housing.
Good Luck
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,334
Likes: 4
From: Midland TX
My drivers side headlight would do that on my 72.
I found it was missing a bolt where it bolts to the outside front corner of the car (by the bumper). The hole was stripped out so I installed a nut and bolt. That helped alot.
During a past repair they body man took some shortcuts. He left off the bracket that goes from the bumper through the fenderwell to the frame. The bumper was mounted just to the body - not to the bracket. He also did not bolt the headlight bracket back.
Check to see if all the mounting bolts are there and they are tight.
I found it was missing a bolt where it bolts to the outside front corner of the car (by the bumper). The hole was stripped out so I installed a nut and bolt. That helped alot.
During a past repair they body man took some shortcuts. He left off the bracket that goes from the bumper through the fenderwell to the frame. The bumper was mounted just to the body - not to the bracket. He also did not bolt the headlight bracket back.
Check to see if all the mounting bolts are there and they are tight.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,429
Likes: 20
From: Kingston Ontario
Here's my take on it.
Before anybody adjust's anything.... check to see if the front of the horseshoe, the main bracket the bolts between the header bar and the very front steel support, doesn't have a broken ear or two. Check out Spedaleden's diagram. In the second diagram it's at the front of the assembly and it shows a bolt going through it, labelled with a square 6 and triangular 2. There's two on each headlight assembly. Just my two cents experiencing the same thing.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Dumont New Jersey
During a past repair they body man took some shortcuts. He left off the bracket that goes from the bumper through the fenderwell to the frame. The bumper was mounted just to the body - not to the bracket. He also did not bolt the headlight bracket back.
Check to see if all the mounting bolts are there and they are tight.
Check to see if all the mounting bolts are there and they are tight.
Its just supported from the center at this point. Could that be causing the shaking?
I knew I should have ordered the bolts a while back.
Seems like the prior owner undid everything half *** for a half *** paint job and lost many a bolt and screw.
All 4 tail lights have only 2 of the 3 screws. Side strims under the door, every oither screw. Interiors 1 of 3 or 1 of 2 on everything.
Its not like they are terribly expensive to replace either.
At least he didnt use over sized screws wedged into the holes. Last one I owned the guy must have gotten stock on oversized screws and bolts and stripped out just about EVERY hole in the car.
When I ordered the screw and bolt kits every one was too small.
BUBBA hit that car hard and I had to get rid of it.
JUST TOO MANY LITTLE THINGS SCREWED UP!
