I'd like to hear from everyone who has painted their own block.
What type of paint did you use?
Max temp rating?
Block prep performed?
Application process?
How many coats to be satisfied?
Was the paint thick or thin?
Any pics welcome!

 

I'm painting my Merlin block Chevy Orange instead of the Bill Mitchell blue. The heads are cast but I wanted them to look aluminum. I picked up a small can of POR-15 Engine Enamel Chevy Orange and POR-15 Engine Enamel Aluminum at Carlisle.

I used Laquer thinner to get as much of the blue paint off as I could using a rag. Stupid shop paper towels left peices stuck to the cast iron heads. Use a real rag.
Sprayed the areas with POR-15 Metal Ready (first step is taping everything off so you don't get drippage or damage any other parts)
Then used Paint Prep from Eastwood to clean the block.
Then painted the heads with a few coats. The paint was very thin and the blue and cast iron color came thru until maybe the 3rd time around. As the paint started to dry and get tacky I would hit it with another coat, this started to look better and the blue started to disappear.
Then I started painting the block with the Chevy Orange. Always work from top to bottom if using different colors incase drippage occurs.
The orange was just as thin and the blue came through.
I didn't get to apply a second coat b/c i was falling asleep with brush in hand. Will do so tonight.

Here are some pics.
Any recommendations?
Hard to see the blue in the pics b/c of the cameras flash. I promise you the orange looks dirtyish and the blue still comes through.
Btw, the valve covers in the newer pics are old spare ones I had, not the Merlin ones I will be using.

Before:





Now:

 

The heads look really good, but I like the painted head look. Did you put a gasket on the heads to protect from the paint?

 

wire wheeled and stripped the paint off of the block. I then cleaned it with wax and grease remover. Then a coat of acid etch primer and 2 coats of DuPont Centari with hardener.

 

Yep, all gaskets are in place and engine is ready to go in car. No further assembly required except to put the nicer Merlin valve covers back on with their gaskets.

WOW beautiful. That orange looks so much better. Nice job

 

I painted every part while they were apart. Block visited machinery shop and they cleaned it pretty well, after that I wirebrushed it with a wirebrush attached to a drill. That way I could get all old paint off and the cast iron was really clean cast iron.

In this pic the engine is already partly back together.


A small change from where I started from, or what do you think...

 

I went with a dark gray engine enamel. It lasts a long time, and the dark color really makes everything on the engine stand out.

 

After degreasing, I painted over the chevy orange with Corvette Bright Yellow acrylic enamel to match the lacquer I used on the car. I think most good enamel paints are good to 300-400* without problems. Mine has held up well......

 

I have always used VHT engine enamel and like any painting project, its all in the surface prep. Get all of the grease/oil/old paint off and then do several light coats as opposed to one or two heavy coats. The engine heat will actually cure the paint.
I do have to call you out on the fake aluminum heads though, thats going to look like crap when the exhaust ports heat up and burn the silver paint and its starts to rust.

I also went with the full orange look, valve covers and all.

 

Chevy Orange Engine Block Paint, Off the shelf at the Zone. Cant really see much of the Block after installing, But its still part of the build.
Have fun with it..

 

It looks good, but I say paint the heads also to me that looks the best

 

I've been using the DupliColor engine paint to good effect - painted 3 so far and they're holding up very well.

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/engine.html

The key as always is prep; getting rid of casting flash and smoothing areas of the block, washing with soap and water and then finally using a pre-paint prep product (I use PPG 330 Wax and Grease Remover). I like to paint my engine in seperate pieces using the gaskets as a masking guide. This ensures I don't end up with junky looking fastners. Clearly not the factory/resto approach - but that's another topic

 

I too use duplicolor - and of course glyptal

 

Before the "where do I buy" threads start....

http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/glyptal.html
http://eastwood.resultspage.com/sear...stom&w=glyptal

 

I painted the heads and block with the ceramic rattle can chevy orange. It rated to 500 or 600. Prep was easy, took it to the machine shop they tanked it, brought it home, then I sanded the rest off. Applied 2 coats of primer, 3 coats or color, and 2 or 3 coats of clear,

 

Duplicolor holds up very well, I saw some recently that I painted as long as 7 years ago, and they still look great. As of late I've been using PPG acrylic enamel after cleaning with metal prep. I am surprised at the number of people that still have old paint on the parts after the machine shop work.

 

You're very right. The Engine Enamel I use is Duplicolor brand. The motor that's in my Corvette now was painted with it almost ten years ago and it's still just as good as the day I shot it. The dirt and grime comes right off with a shot of brake parts cleaner and that's it.

 

Cleaned 400 block with wire wheel and brake cleaner after machine work. Masked all machined surfaces, and sprayed Eastwood "One shot" two part enamal (with hardener) with small detail gun. Good to over 300* and is rock hard after the first heat cycle. One Shot can be brushed on too. I brushed my old 350 while it was installed without much disassembly.
400


350 after running for two yrs.

Eddie

 

I bought the exact orange and aluminum colors. I too am looking for the aluminum head look. Your looks great.

 

Keep 1 thing in mind when painting...... If running and cooled properly, an engine gets 200-250 degrees...........How hot does our hood get in the summer in a parking lot??