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Old Sep 1, 2007 | 10:07 AM
  #1  
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From: galesburg mi
Default straight or not

is it possible to tell if my frame is straight and true and is there an easy way to tell
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Old Sep 1, 2007 | 02:55 PM
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
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The first thing you need is to find a flat level surface to park on, making certain the car is pointed absolutely straight and the suspension settled without any bind. If you can't find a dead level surface, find one level from L to R with a minimal slope front to rear. Bear in mind that your findings are subject to the accuracy of your work. Disconnecting the sway bar(s) before rolling into position is a good idea, and removing one end of each shock would go even further towards accuracy.

To check if your chassis is square, corner to corner, and not a parallelogram, using a plumb bob mark the exact location of what ever front and rear reference points you choose and compare the diagonal measurements. Any variation indicates a degree of being "out-of-square" as seen from the top view. The further out these dimensions, the more likely your front and rear are dog-tracking.

As for any warp relative to heights, make sure the Z and D suspension heights (explanation below) are equal from side to side, then compare various points, particularly L to R. Note that the numbers in the pic below are given relative to each other, and not necessarily the numbers you'll have. It is possible for these measurements to appear good, and still have some warp that would only show up when the corner weights are taken, but you'll have a fairly good idea of what you've got without spending the money to have a frame shop jig it up for you.

“Z” height is the distance from the lower control arm front pivot bolt CL (centerline) to level ground, minus the distance from the bottom surface of the spindle support (also referred to as the steering knuckle) to level ground. That last point is the underside on which the lower ball joint nut bears.

“D” height is the distance from the inner camber strut rod link CL to level ground, minus the distance from the outer camber strut rod link CL to level ground.




Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Sep 1, 2007 at 03:13 PM.
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Old Sep 1, 2007 | 07:37 PM
  #3  
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From: galesburg mi
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thanks Charlie you are the man
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Old Sep 1, 2007 | 11:49 PM
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From: North Royaton Ohio
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Don't have an answer for you, but the title of this thread made me chuckle
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Old Sep 2, 2007 | 12:34 AM
  #5  
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From: Glen Allen (Richmond) Virginia
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If ya headlights are shining right while you are turning left

If one wheel is not touching the road when the other three are

If the gap between the hood and the body looks like a toaster opening
........................................ ........................................ ................You might have a bent frame

Seriously, you have good advice in the prior post. I look for serious bubba shims at the hood hinges, crossmember, radiator support, bumper brackets, and of coarse the upper and lower A arms.
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Old Sep 2, 2007 | 01:11 AM
  #6  
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
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Originally Posted by coinwasher
If ya headlights are shining right while you are turning left

If one wheel is not touching the road when the other three are

If the gap between the hood and the body looks like a toaster opening
........................................ ........................................ ................You might have a bent frame


Originally Posted by coinwasher
...I look for serious bubba shims at the hood hinges, crossmember, radiator support, bumper brackets, and of coarse the upper and lower A arms.
You forgot to mention multiple rear spring cushions.
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