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Dad just bought an 81 vette today. 50,000 mile car. Bought it off ebay, on the way home today he noticed that the A/C is only blowing out at your feet, not at the center vents. What is causing this? Bad flapper valve? This is his first C3 vette, don't know where to start. Is something just out of adjustment, or? Does it work off vacuum or cables or both? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Brandon.
Check to make sure your vacuum hoses are connected behind the dash. Someone might of changed the heater core out in the car pryor to you guys buying the car and may not of hooked one back up. Hopefully it is not squashed between something back there.
The default position is air only to the floor.Make sure your getting vacuum from the engine inside the cabin.There is a single black hose coming from engine that feeds the AC controls.It could be off or pinched.
One very common thing that happens is the 5 port control valve falls apart.Put your ear down to the AC control and listen for a hiss.Here is a link to the valve.This is an easy fix with a shorty phillips screwdriver. http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...6&dept_id=1193
Check to make sure your vacuum hoses are connected behind the dash. Someone might of changed the heater core out in the car pryor to you guys buying the car and may not of hooked one back up. Hopefully it is not squashed between something back there.
Look for pinched vacuum lines. Happens a lot when bubba removes the center console or side console panels.
I wrote this up awhile back for this problem & Have posted it many times.
On at least later C3 the problem is that heater is the default position (no vac. or vac. leak) due to being designed in the north. Vent should be default. Very safe bet the problem is 1 OR 2:
1) The vac. line from engine is damaged from heat - a small plastic tube that goes in below the hood alarm switch into wiper valley. Replacing most of engine side w/ hose will fix. OR
2) The vac. switch itself is not switching due to vac. leak as the usually plastic rivet is not holding the 2 main switch parts together well. Besides replacing, it is also possible to tighten this &/or lube w/ a thin layer of white lithium grease or vasoline to fix.
3) If you have a heater, the small vac. tube to heater hose valve underhood probably also needs replacing. Block w/o heater.
PS The design problem comment is not intended to be offensive to any of our northern friends.
Ill switch to why im only getting air on floor. Read all the posts and a few conclusions mainly vacuum leak etc..
im bot so lucky but did manage to see my remp cable adjust was not moving to full cold, and not hitting switch which according to manual triggers the water to stop flowing through heater core...that would be helpful!
moved very hard too..slathered silicone paste and constantly with lever in one hand and door lever in other got it back and forth smoother..still tight.
that .01 to .02 adjustment on temp lever is a non starter for me i need to adjust like an inch so it will fully close and trigger switch..maybe only downside is less heat but i want that water off while i stockpile r12 and pit on new compressor..it runs but about to implode...that dryer looks impossible to remove.. Behind glove box I need to keep this hap or there is not enough for e to close door and thus switch