First gear problem
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,044
Likes: 0
From: Henrico VA
First gear problem
After my engine swap everything ran fine for a few months. Now, the car usually can't get into first. It is a little harder to get into reverse as well, but it is doable every time. It is a Muncie 4 speed on a '69. I've been told that it's 1 of 2 things:
1) I need to adjust the clutch. My clutch adjust is bent slightly so I lose about a 1/2 inch (and I'm sure it always was). First and reverse are the hardest gears to get into, so they need more play in the clutch to work.
2) I need to adjust my transmission linkage. Since first and reverse share the same linkage, this is also probable. Although, what could have caused them to move?
Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. If I have to buy a new clutch adjustment rob, it probably won't be for another week. I can get under the car and adjust the linkage tomorrow.
1) I need to adjust the clutch. My clutch adjust is bent slightly so I lose about a 1/2 inch (and I'm sure it always was). First and reverse are the hardest gears to get into, so they need more play in the clutch to work.
2) I need to adjust my transmission linkage. Since first and reverse share the same linkage, this is also probable. Although, what could have caused them to move?
Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. If I have to buy a new clutch adjustment rob, it probably won't be for another week. I can get under the car and adjust the linkage tomorrow.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,485
Likes: 7
From: Peekskill NY
Separate linkage and rods for 1st and reverse. 1st-2nd rod is at the rear of the side case. 3rd & 4th are the front. Reverse is in the tail housing. Check your AIM for correct adjustment procedure.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,924
Likes: 6
The clutch rod is supposed to be bent
It sounds to me like it's simply a need to adjust the clutch (assuming you used the original flywheel and thrust bearing)
It sounds to me like it's simply a need to adjust the clutch (assuming you used the original flywheel and thrust bearing)
After my engine swap everything ran fine for a few months. Now, the car usually can't get into first. It is a little harder to get into reverse as well, but it is doable every time. It is a Muncie 4 speed on a '69. I've been told that it's 1 of 2 things:
1) I need to adjust the clutch. My clutch adjust is bent slightly so I lose about a 1/2 inch (and I'm sure it always was). First and reverse are the hardest gears to get into, so they need more play in the clutch to work.
2) I need to adjust my transmission linkage. Since first and reverse share the same linkage, this is also probable. Although, what could have caused them to move?
Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. If I have to buy a new clutch adjustment rob, it probably won't be for another week. I can get under the car and adjust the linkage tomorrow.
1) I need to adjust the clutch. My clutch adjust is bent slightly so I lose about a 1/2 inch (and I'm sure it always was). First and reverse are the hardest gears to get into, so they need more play in the clutch to work.
2) I need to adjust my transmission linkage. Since first and reverse share the same linkage, this is also probable. Although, what could have caused them to move?
Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. If I have to buy a new clutch adjustment rob, it probably won't be for another week. I can get under the car and adjust the linkage tomorrow.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,924
Likes: 6
If your clutch rod looks like this , then it's not the rod, unless the rod is bending, and thats doubtful
Corvette Central part number 533740
I have my pedal/rod adjusted so it catches about 1/2 inch off the floor
My adjuster is about 2 inches from the end of the rod (brand new clutch pack)
There's lots of variables in play here. It could be sloppy linkage from the shifter. I have a BW in mine, with a stock shifter. Where the rods attach to the transmission levers, mine was missing washers (where the pins clip in). Making the shifting sloppy and hit or miss.
But I don't know if the Muncie uses those. So I default to the Muncie guys.
Corvette Central part number 533740
I have my pedal/rod adjusted so it catches about 1/2 inch off the floor
My adjuster is about 2 inches from the end of the rod (brand new clutch pack)
There's lots of variables in play here. It could be sloppy linkage from the shifter. I have a BW in mine, with a stock shifter. Where the rods attach to the transmission levers, mine was missing washers (where the pins clip in). Making the shifting sloppy and hit or miss.
But I don't know if the Muncie uses those. So I default to the Muncie guys.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,044
Likes: 0
From: Henrico VA
Mine actually is even more bent at the end, but it's always been that bent. That becomes completely straight whereas mine does not. Would this make a difference is 2nd through 4th work pretty well?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 915
Likes: 2
From: Lima, OH -- 69 L71 427/435hp
Has it made any 'squalling' noises yet?
You said it was fine for a few months and just started happening...kinda sounds like the pilot bushing wasn't greased well and it's catching.
Does it do it more so when warmed up?
Are you using synthetic in your muncie?
You said it was fine for a few months and just started happening...kinda sounds like the pilot bushing wasn't greased well and it's catching.
Does it do it more so when warmed up?
Are you using synthetic in your muncie?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,044
Likes: 0
From: Henrico VA
If I try to engage first, and fail, then give it gas, I can hear something almost grinding. You think my pilot bearing is not greased well enough? My engine is synthetic, but I'm pretty sure my transmission is still dino oil. I'm planning on putting Royal Purple in there as well. Can it be a pilot bearing issue if the other gears work okay?
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 915
Likes: 2
From: Lima, OH -- 69 L71 427/435hp
If I try to engage first, and fail, then give it gas, I can hear something almost grinding. You think my pilot bearing is not greased well enough? My engine is synthetic, but I'm pretty sure my transmission is still dino oil. I'm planning on putting Royal Purple in there as well. Can it be a pilot bearing issue if the other gears work okay?
You said you swapped motors, do you remember greasing the pilot bushing/bearing? Do you know if you have a bearing or bushing? I'd hope it's a brass bushing, those needle bearings can leave quite a mess when they go.
I would leave the dino oil in the muncie...synthetic 'can' cause those brass synchronizers to become a little 'too slick' and not always engage properly.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,732
Likes: 709
From: Shelton, Connecticut
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Check pedal to throw out
bearing arm rods.
When I restored my 72, I found not only were the both the pedal to pivot shaft rod pivot holes oblong, the rod from the pivot shaft to the throw out arm was also worn.
I also found the pivot pin on the clutch pedal had a groove half the diameter of the pin. I replaced the pin, and welded and re-drilled the rod pivot holes and got a lot of clutch adjustment back.
It is interesting that the pivot cross-shaft has a grease fitting, but the rods are simply metal to metal contacts.
When I restored my 72, I found not only were the both the pedal to pivot shaft rod pivot holes oblong, the rod from the pivot shaft to the throw out arm was also worn.
I also found the pivot pin on the clutch pedal had a groove half the diameter of the pin. I replaced the pin, and welded and re-drilled the rod pivot holes and got a lot of clutch adjustment back.
It is interesting that the pivot cross-shaft has a grease fitting, but the rods are simply metal to metal contacts.