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Seriously, I got this tip from a member here and my painter loved it. You just need to position the cardboard in the spaces to even out the alignment of the door so that thy don't hit the fenders or rocker panels and close the door. Tighten the hinge bolts from the inside.
From: Ville de la Baie Quebec. A winner is just a loser who tried again.
with the hinges loose, close the door and shim under the door with metal plates or tools (putty knife works good) this will give you the hight, the front and back is easy after that. You will find (i did) that the passenger side is harder to get because when tightening the bolts its actually working against you inthat your pushing the door down, you must compansate.
I had my door sills removed,, so this may have helped.
The cardboard sounds like a great idea, since I always seem to be working alone. Next question: does the weatherstripping need to be in to get the doors right, or is that just a strike post adjustment?
I use whatever shims I have laying around, they are usually the wood ones, some are a composite. You can do it without weather strip and without the striker pin and make sure your body lines are matched up. The weather strip will compress when the door is closed. If the door is gutted, it will weigh about 8 pounds less so you'll need to use a sand bag to load the door or just re-adjust after the door is together.
i used a simple tire iron, after the bolts on the front jams are snug .use a regular tire iron to move the bolts to any direction that is needed .all you do is put the socket side of the tire iron over the hindge bolt and pry, the angle of the tire iron will help leverage the door in any direction, try it you will be suprised how good it works , i was amazed at how it worked