loud clicking / tapping sound ??
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 245
Likes: 2
From: Hope Indiana
When you've got the valve covers off if nothing seems obvious, check to see if you can spin the pushrods. My money's still on a lifter because the failure mode is so common. If you can "feel" the tick noise on the distributor it's most likely something mechanical rather than a leak. Stuck lifters are the most common problem, but I like the suggestion about the alignment of the distributor. I'd check that out as well.
If you've got a leaking header gasket like some have suggested you'll probably see some carbon tracking around the ports. The other thing you can do is move your hand around the header flange with the car idling (don't touch!) and feel for leaks. The fact that you can feel it makes a header gasket seem unlikely to me.
If you've got a leaking header gasket like some have suggested you'll probably see some carbon tracking around the ports. The other thing you can do is move your hand around the header flange with the car idling (don't touch!) and feel for leaks. The fact that you can feel it makes a header gasket seem unlikely to me.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
When you've got the valve covers off if nothing seems obvious, check to see if you can spin the pushrods. My money's still on a lifter because the failure mode is so common. If you can "feel" the tick noise on the distributor it's most likely something mechanical rather than a leak. Stuck lifters are the most common problem, but I like the suggestion about the alignment of the distributor. I'd check that out as well.
If you've got a leaking header gasket like some have suggested you'll probably see some carbon tracking around the ports. The other thing you can do is move your hand around the header flange with the car idling (don't touch!) and feel for leaks. The fact that you can feel it makes a header gasket seem unlikely to me.
If you've got a leaking header gasket like some have suggested you'll probably see some carbon tracking around the ports. The other thing you can do is move your hand around the header flange with the car idling (don't touch!) and feel for leaks. The fact that you can feel it makes a header gasket seem unlikely to me.
Great ideas. 
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 7,009
Likes: 11
From: Philadelphia, sub burbs Wynnewood, PA
Well I took the covers off and everything looked fine
I don’t know what it is…
I would say the sound is with every revolution
Also I took the car for a short drive and though the sound didn’t go away by any means
When I returned home I noticed that the sound wasn’t as loud.
I don’t know what it is…
I would say the sound is with every revolution
Also I took the car for a short drive and though the sound didn’t go away by any means
When I returned home I noticed that the sound wasn’t as loud.
Last edited by Scottys78; Oct 22, 2007 at 03:46 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,234
Likes: 19
From: Freestate Corvette Club! Elkridge, MD
St. Jude Donor '17
So far I have tried all that I can think of…
Some how I can’t figure it out, I need someone who knows better than me to listen to it.
I don’t want to have to take it to a shop but this one is over my head.
I’ve been planning a crate motor for my baby and this could be the push I needed. I don’t want to spend money to fix this, to than buying a crate motor.
Do you guys think I should try driving the car a little and see want happens to the noise?
Some how I can’t figure it out, I need someone who knows better than me to listen to it.
I don’t want to have to take it to a shop but this one is over my head.
I’ve been planning a crate motor for my baby and this could be the push I needed. I don’t want to spend money to fix this, to than buying a crate motor.
Do you guys think I should try driving the car a little and see want happens to the noise?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 830
Likes: 1
Check them again then...One year? Headers require a check d@mn near every 1500 miles.
BTW...Take it easy. It's not quite check writing time yet for a new engine.
1. Does it start/ fire up up okay?
2. Smoke out the exhaust?
3. Do an oil change. Looking for water/anti freeze in oil, discoloration, metal shavings in oil.
4. Did you run the car w/ the valve covers off? Were all parts moving as they should?
IMHO...When an engine "goes bad" you will have much greater indication than just a new "clacking" sound in the rear of the bay. Have the distributor checked. HEI is relatively inexpensive & easy to figure out.
Oh...When the header gaskets go out, they are often just tiny hairline fractures on the BOTTOM of the engine side (where you probably wouldn't see it anyway). I may be wrong on this but, I would definitely invest the $10 and put in new header gaskets. VERY EASY job with extremely basic tools. (this is a hellova lot less $$$ than running out and buying a new crate engine). Once again, this is only My Honest Opinion.
Last edited by OregonVette80; Oct 22, 2007 at 06:24 PM.
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,909
Likes: 6
From: Lake Arrowhead - Georgia > 72 Base Coupe & 74 BB Roadster
My 70 GMC 1500 with the 350/300 started knocking. Sounded like a wristpin or lifter or a piston hitting "something". It was the fuel pump rod. Take a look.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Check them again then...One year? Headers require a check d@mn near every 1500 miles.
Oh...When the header gaskets go out, they are often just tiny hairline fractures on the BOTTOM of the engine side (where you probably wouldn't see it anyway). I may be wrong on this but, I would definitely invest the $10 and put in new header gaskets. VERY EASY job with extremely basic tools. (this is a hellova lot less $$$ than running out and buying a new crate engine). Once again, this is only My Honest Opinion.
They will sound like a metallic tapping and will fool you!
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Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 7,009
Likes: 11
From: Philadelphia, sub burbs Wynnewood, PA
Check them again then...One year? Headers require a check d@mn near every 1500 miles.
1. Does it start/ fire up up okay?
2. Smoke out the exhaust?
3. Do an oil change. Looking for water/anti freeze in oil, discoloration, metal shavings in oil.
4. Did you run the car w/ the valve covers off? Were all parts moving as they should?
I’m 99% sure it’s not the header gasket
Starts and runs fine
A little smoke on fire up and nothing after (but that’s normal for my car)
Did an oil change last month (oil looked good ‘n clean than)
No I didn’t run the engine with the covers off
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,485
Likes: 7
From: Peekskill NY
You have to run it with the valve covers off. Just let idle so oil dosen't go shooting all over the place. Really get in close, use a flashlight if need be to see better. If the engine isn't too hot, touch as much as possible to feel for the sound. As stated, see if the push rods have any play. Just might end up needing to be a valve needs to be tightened.
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 589
Likes: 0
You have to run it with the valve covers off. Just let idle so oil dosen't go shooting all over the place. Really get in close, use a flashlight if need be to see better. If the engine isn't too hot, touch as much as possible to feel for the sound. As stated, see if the push rods have any play. Just might end up needing to be a valve needs to be tightened.
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
Dont touch it with the motor running..
4th Gear
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Halden...Norway
Had the same exact noise and the guy who built my engine put his hand on the distributor and it went away.
Turned out the distributor drive gear was moving up and down inside the engine because I did n't have the end gear shimmed properly.
Took it out and had it fixed in under an hour and back in and noise was gone.
Turned out the distributor drive gear was moving up and down inside the engine because I did n't have the end gear shimmed properly.
Took it out and had it fixed in under an hour and back in and noise was gone.
I have the same sound and i hope that it`s the distributor that`s the problem here to, because i have tryed everything else ......
what exactly did he do
Sorry if my english(writing) is bad but it`s not so often that i write in english
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 7,009
Likes: 11
From: Philadelphia, sub burbs Wynnewood, PA
Well I pulled the trigger and pulled the motor out of my Vette.
Now the question is do I build up my 350 or spend the extra money and make her a 383 stroker?
Are all Vettes 4 bolt mains?
Now the question is do I build up my 350 or spend the extra money and make her a 383 stroker?
Are all Vettes 4 bolt mains?
1st Gear
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
i have the same thing but i just installed an edelbrock intake manifold and then i got the sound maybe i didnt install the distributor back the right wayor back in the right timing but hopefully someone hase the answer my sound definitely sounds like the distributor and i hope its not hurting my engine please help me I"M DESPERATE!!!
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,909
Likes: 6
From: Lake Arrowhead - Georgia > 72 Base Coupe & 74 BB Roadster
Two items.....I have had a similar noise before. Once I had the Distributor Cap installed slightly crooked and the rotor button was scraping against the inside of the Cap. Other time it was the FUEL PUMP ROD. Both times the motor ran fine, but made a NASTY clicking noise. I was pretty sure it was about shot.....turned out OK.
Good Luck.....
If you just need a laugh about a "clicking noise"......click here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPMwtPqh29c
Good Luck.....
If you just need a laugh about a "clicking noise"......click here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPMwtPqh29c
Last edited by fotyfobravo; Jan 4, 2008 at 09:36 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,892
Likes: 3
From: Springfield Illinois
I would say that the problem with your engine was the header gasket. If you drive your car often, you'll want to tighten your header bolts every 2 weeks or so. If you don't keep them tight, the bolts WILL unscrew out of your engine. I've seen it happen. Even though it doesn't matter now, I am just letting you know. I don't want to see you rebuild the engine, hear the same noise again, and pitch the engine.
Personally, on the engine, I'd go with a 396 stroker. EVERYONE has a 383, why not go for a 396 and have the cubes of a big block?
Last edited by FRSTR90; Jan 4, 2008 at 09:38 PM.
