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i'm just getting started putting a 69 BB back together that I purchased as a "numbers matching" car but I would like to have an expert opinion before putting it back together to verify that no restamping occured in the past Any advice on a where to find such a person??
I'm certainly no expert, first off. But the fact that you are even asking and going to the trouble of posting this makes me think you're suspicious...is that right? For some reason, at first glance, those numbers really don't look like they're 40 years old. Something just doesn't look right.
Like I said, I'm certainly no expert...hopefully others with more experience will chime in.
Good luck and either way, you'll have a valuable and enjoyable car soon enough!
There is a technical guide put out by the NCRS that examines engine numbers. They have unique stampings and defects in the original markings which can not be forged. I used this guide and also found engine numbers from similar cars of my year. Fortunately my engine is original albeit rebuilt.
It's virtually impossible to tell a good restamp from an original stamp using pictures. The fact that your pad is partially painted and the pictures are way over exposed does not help.
Keep in mind that the surface finish of the pad is far more difficult to counterfeit than the stamped numbers.
Looks like a decent restamp to me - no expert here.
The broach marks look wrong to me from here. If you can feel them easily with a fingernail they are even more suspect. Those look like they were probably done with a belt sander or possibly a file.
Al Grenning on the NCRS Technical Discussion Board at www.ncrs.org is the expert on engine stampings.
He can answer your question
Post it there, or e-mail him clear pictures of your engine stamping.
Kurt
Last edited by ksbunting; Nov 3, 2007 at 11:03 PM.
It is hard to tell from the pics. From the engine # you are supposed to have a 69 L68 (400 hp) with manual trans. The engine date is November 8, 1968. The vin is < 10,000, an early car obviously, but I can't make out the 6th digit or the last digit. I can read 19S70?05C, but that last "C" is likely a zero. These numbers should match your vin, so you should know exactly what these numbers are supposed to be. I will tell you that according to the Black Book, the last car produced in October 1968 was vin #6272, so if your engine was made November 8, it seems to me it should have gone into a car with vin > 6272, so hopefully that ? is an 8 or 9 ! The trim tag should also indicate a similar build date, in November or December 68. So, if all the numbers are consistent, then you have to figure out if they are original or stamped on there after the fact, which is the tricky part.
Judging a pad by using a photo is the same as judging a paint job by using a photo. Your eyes just don't get enough information to make more than a guess. Seem to be some pretty distinct broach marks in the first photo but not in the second... this is because????.
Regards,
Alan
I'm certainly no expert, first off. But the fact that you are even asking and going to the trouble of posting this makes me think you're suspicious...is that right? For some reason, at first glance, those numbers really don't look like they're 40 years old. Something just doesn't look right.
Like I said, I'm certainly no expert...hopefully others with more experience will chime in.
Good luck and either way, you'll have a valuable and enjoyable car soon enough!
thanks for that ethics lesson - i will cherish no really, the car is in pieces and i want to get someone to verify (or at least an expert opinion) that the block and trans are not restamped. its harder to verify after the car is back together and may influence how much i pour into the restoration. today i found the frame stamp and verified that it matches the VIN, then proceeded to paint over it it will be a great car. thanks
It is hard to tell from the pics. From the engine # you are supposed to have a 69 L68 (400 hp) with manual trans. The engine date is November 8, 1968. The vin is < 10,000, an early car obviously, but I can't make out the 6th digit or the last digit. I can read 19S70?05C, but that last "C" is likely a zero. These numbers should match your vin, so you should know exactly what these numbers are supposed to be. I will tell you that according to the Black Book, the last car produced in October 1968 was vin #6272, so if your engine was made November 8, it seems to me it should have gone into a car with vin > 6272, so hopefully that ? is an 8 or 9 ! The trim tag should also indicate a similar build date, in November or December 68. So, if all the numbers are consistent, then you have to figure out if they are original or stamped on there after the fact, which is the tricky part.
very interesting - thanks for the feedback. the last 4 digits are 9056 so it looks like i'm OK but you had me worried. everything in the drivetrain has been decoded and part numbers are correct for a 427/400 and casting and trans/rear assembly date are before car build date so if someone faked it would have taken along time to make it all look right. now i just want to get an expert opinion on the stampings. thanks again.
Judging a pad by using a photo is the same as judging a paint job by using a photo. Your eyes just don't get enough information to make more than a guess. Seem to be some pretty distinct broach marks in the first photo but not in the second... this is because????.
Regards,
Alan
Alan, thanks for the feedback. i dont know what a broach mark is or waht it should look like:o i'm guessing that it is a tooling mark from when the assembly worker performed the stamp. i think that i'll pay an expert to come out and look at the car. Dan
i'm guessing that it is a tooling mark from when the assembly worker performed the stamp. i think that i'll pay an expert to come out and look at the car. Dan
The broaching marks were made when the top and bottom of the block were finish machined. Contrary to other responses, the machine is about the size of a bus, and there are no cutting stones or rotating heads involved. The cutting blades look like a very long coarse file which shaves metal off the block. As the teeth become dull, they leave scratches or 'tooling marks' that run the axis of the block. Circular swirl marks are only found on aftermarket machine shops and are not original.
You've got the right idea by having someone knowledgeable look at your pad. Do him and yourself a favour- remove all traces of paint using a NON ABRASIVE method. Try paint thinner or naval jelly. Do not use steel wool or a scraper!
Note that the pad was not painted when it left the factory.