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Newbie Here But Same Old Problem,
Soon after buying a 78 Vette, the Brake Light came on the Dash. So I ran over to the local Vette Shop and they shimmed and bled the system 3 weeks ago. Well, today on another of my shake down rides, the lite came on again.
So, in talking to someone, he says the problem could be with the wheel bearings and maybe misalignment issues. So, if that's the case, will this problem continue even with new ss calipers, rotors and pads? He said the calipers don't float, so any wheel misalignment will allow air into the system.
Also, if I get new calipers, it looks like Eklers has a good deal with a rebuilders Special for $340 and includes the pads.
Well, no leaks last time it was checked by the vette shop. Now I have the same brake pedal feel as before, so my guess is its the same issue.
So, my local Lee Auto parts has rotors for $39, and calipers would cost $456.
I'm inclined to buy the calipers from VB&P if you guys think that's the best choice. But there $100 more that the Ekler's Rebuilders special. But then again, I don't want this issue to keep coming back either.
So Duke, your saying that the orings and seals would eliminate this issue with the bearing misalignment...if that's the case? I hope so. That would be good news cause this car is starting to become worrisome.
When the light comes on is there a noticable decrease in the brake pedal? Is it going close to the floor when the light illuminates? It could be as simple as a bypassing master cylinder. I would do more troubleshooting before you spend a bunch of money and not cure the problem.
wn- not a real huge diff in brake pedal, but some. seems to require more pushing on the pedal to stop but doesn't go to the floor.
now the previous owner did have a mc installed, and 3 weeks ago when the shop checked it...it was full of fluid. the shop was reluctant to find fault in it. And no leaks at any wheels. They said the pads weren't shimmed, and air gets into the lines. Problem is the same as last time, only now I'm a bit reluctant to run back over to the shop.
Dar The M/C will be full even during a bypass. Did the previous owner have the M/C replaced for that problem? Where is the switch mounted on your 78? I would rule out the calipers since you said no leaks.
wnmech- the brake light is between the speddo and tach. Yeah, my guess is new mc was put on for this reason. the shop said whoever put it on didn't know about the shimming. what do you mean by-passing mc?
Bypassing is when you depress the brake pedal and the fluid goes around the piston. I have had master cylinders that one press of the pedal it will go almost to the floor and when you release the brake pedal and depress it again the brake will feel fine. Sometimes the master cylinder seal will either get a speck of foreign material or possibly a small pit in the bore where fluid goes around the piston.You could even possibly have a bad switch if your brake pedal feels fine.
well the pedal does feel a bit spongey, not the solid pedal as before. Yeah, my plan is to buy the calipers, rotors and Hawk pads. Talked to VBP and I'll probably go with them. I don't know but I'm guessing the rotor problem may be due to them being original. Car has 74k on it. There revited on, aren't they? I've learned to replace rotors when pads at the same time. I bit disconcerting because the vette shop did a band-aid fix just 3 weeks ago, but in all fairness probably to save me a buck.
After dropping an undisclosed amount of money on my car, the calipers started leaking on the way home. Not wanting to spend any more money than I had to the first weekend, I went to my local parts store and got the same stainless steel sleeved calipers that I would get at any of the Vette parts houses. The only difference is they were much cheaper...I think around $50 or $60 a part. That was a couple years ago and no signs of leaks at all so far (knock on wood).
The parts were reman Delco Remy calipers...
In case you don't see the need to spend more than you have to to get a working system...
As for the air ingestion problem, I don't have anything to contribute to that conversation...sorry.
A co-worker who builds and races cars took the vette for a test ride. He determined its air in the lines. One side front is grabbing before the other and the rears not at all. Will bleed it this weekend. And go from there.
okay wnmech, what is the brake proportioning valve? a little research and i see what it is. before handing over $90, anyway of knowing if its bad? Plan is to bleed system first. And if problem comes back? Replace this valve then?
okay wnmech, what is the brake proportioning valve? a little research and i see what it is. before handing over $90, anyway of knowing if its bad? Plan is to bleed system first. And if problem comes back? Replace this valve then?
I dont understand a whole lot aboutt the proportioning valve but if you follow your brake lines from the M/C you will see a brass block that the lines go into and somehow it ports pressure to the calipers for braking. When you bleed the brakes if you have little or no brake fluid flowing from the bleeders the valve could be the problem. On my 77 my front calipers have a bleeder on both sides of the caliper which people tend to forget about and it can trap air.
From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Originally Posted by dar322
okay wnmech, what is the brake proportioning valve? a little research and i see what it is. before handing over $90, anyway of knowing if its bad? Plan is to bleed system first. And if problem comes back? Replace this valve then?
The brake proportioning valve functions to reduce the pressure applied to the brake calipers from that which is delivered by the master cylinder. In mixed applications, disc / drum combinations, the brake proportioning valve is used to reduce the pressure applied to the rear wheel brakes, to prevent the rear wheels from locking up under hard braking when the vehicle weight is transferred to the front wheels
Never heard of one going bad before, its just a block with passages of changing dimensions to reduce line pressure. if it doesnt leak it should be working, but I could be (and have been) mistaken though. have heard of the wrong ones being used for the application in question
Last edited by sweethence; Nov 7, 2007 at 09:17 AM.