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Door hitting Hooker sidetubes!

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Old Nov 7, 2007 | 11:52 PM
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Default Door hitting Hooker sidetubes!

I was very excited to receive my stainless hooker sidetubes recently...until I put one on and tried to close the door. Anyone had this problem? Here are a few pics... The angle is awkward so they may not be that helpful

Also I see that my idea of connecting the sidetubes to my headman side exit headers with 4in stainless may not work either. It seems the connecting pipe would hit the body where it bends inward.



rear bracket from below:


Oh and just for fun, here's a pic I took of my 8 week old English Setters yesterday
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by mlub
I was very excited to receive my stainless hooker sidetubes recently...until I put one on and tried to close the door. Anyone had this problem? Here are a few pics... The angle is awkward so they may not be that helpful

Also I see that my idea of connecting the sidetubes to my headman side exit headers with 4in stainless may not work either. It seems the connecting pipe would hit the body where it bends inward.



rear bracket from below:


Oh and just for fun, here's a pic I took of my 8 week old English Setters yesterday

EZ fix
Elongate the slot on the side pipe tube bracket and move pipe down a little.(cute dogs by the way)
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 07:56 AM
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The pic of the puppys is meant for a Hallmark card. My girlfriend had a fit.She said awwwwwwwwwww.
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 08:44 AM
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Bubbas on his way over with a jig saw. You'll be all set soon
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Road-Race Vette
EZ fix
Elongate the slot on the side pipe tube bracket and move pipe down a little.(cute dogs by the way)
before you start cutting, how is your door alignment? does this happen on both sides or just one? other suspects could be sagging hinges, or even evidence of a worn body mount bushing.

check all three first before you take any next steps

also it sounds like you dont have the front hooked to anything? could be as simple as the pipe not being level? Those T bolts do leave a little room to wiggle to get the hooker style headers to all line up. m Never hirts to check the easy stuff first anyway

Also I am Not sure what you meant about the headmans side exits?

pics from the front?


tim

Last edited by sweethence; Nov 8, 2007 at 09:41 AM.
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 08:58 AM
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with all of the above, also I bent the mounting tabs to angle the pipe opening downward just because I think it looks better, but in your case it will gain you some clearance.
And that puppy pic is my new desktop background!

Last edited by yellow 72; Nov 8, 2007 at 09:01 AM.
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 09:18 AM
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I had the same problem with my drives door.

Now this may sound a bit "bubbaish but I just put my foot on the pipe and bent the mounting tabs to where they needed to be.

If your going to try this make sure everything is connected and tightened first.
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 09:19 AM
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The factory slots in the frame rails do not line up properly with the Hooker brackets. On both cars I've installed them on, I ended up drilling a small hole in the frame in order to get the pipes level with the actual frame. If I had used the factory slots, I would have had the exact same problem as you.
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by sperkins
The factory slots in the frame rails do not line up properly with the Hooker brackets. On both cars I've installed them on, I ended up drilling a small hole in the frame in order to get the pipes level with the actual frame. If I had used the factory slots, I would have had the exact same problem as you.
Mine went in with no alignment trouble whatsoever using the factory slots, every car ages differently, and thats where the *ahem* opportunities lie

Last edited by sweethence; Nov 8, 2007 at 09:38 AM.
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 10:31 AM
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Ok... Thanks for the input everyone! Tonight I'll check the passenger side to see if it has the same issue. If I have to cut anything I'll probably cut the side tube brackets and weld in an extension piece. The idea of hacking on my frame makes me queezy
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by mlub
Ok... Thanks for the input everyone! Tonight I'll check the passenger side to see if it has the same issue. If I have to cut anything I'll probably cut the side tube brackets and weld in an extension piece. The idea of hacking on my frame makes me queezy
Not sure if you did this on purpose, but the is supposed to be a rubber bushing on both sides of the moutnign tab, seem you only have the inner one......
one last thing
there may be some room to play with by rotating the tubes a touch.



seet the tabs? this came from how the headers sat in relation to the pipes.

during assebly the order was headers, attach side tube, and then bolt to frame



Last edited by sweethence; Nov 8, 2007 at 11:15 AM.
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 11:19 AM
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Just went thru the same thing two weeks ago.
Check it out.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ight=sidepipes

My problem was my body mounts. Yours may not be if your door gaps are fine.
I also used a crowbar and lots of padding and used the frame for leverage to bend the sidepipes down to clear the door. (Can't do this when the rocker moulding is on)
Good luck.
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by sweethence
Not sure if you did this on purpose, but the is supposed to be a rubber bushing on both sides of the moutnign tab, seem you only have the inner one......
Yeah, thanks...The instructions on the Hooker website only have the one bushing... but I just read another thread on here that says the instructions are wrong

Originally Posted by sweethence
during assebly the order was headers, attach side tube, and then bolt to frame
I actually dont have the hooker side exit headers... My plan was to attach my side exit Hedman headers to the hooker side tubes with some 4in stainless tubing... Now that I have the side tubes on, I see that this idea might not work. Reason being that the side tubes don't look low enough to allow the connecting pipe to clear under the body. I'll take some pictures tonight to show what I mean...
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 12:19 PM
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From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
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Originally Posted by mlub
Yeah, thanks...The instructions on the Hooker website only have the one bushing... but I just read another thread on here that says the instructions are wrong


I actually dont have the hooker side exit headers... My plan was to attach my side exit Hedman headers to the hooker side tubes with some 4in stainless tubing... Now that I have the side tubes on, I see that this idea might not work. Reason being that the side tubes don't look low enough to allow the connecting pipe to clear under the body. I'll take some pictures tonight to show what I mean...
Nope I know exactly what you mean, the hooker collectors are situated as such that as they exit the side they come up higher than the bottom of the rocker panel for ground clearance, the headman side tubes just exit out below the body, so no it wont line up exactly,

have to give this one some thought, how far off is the hight ?
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by sweethence
have to give this one some thought, how far off is the hight ?
Not sure...and of course it will change when I adjust the brackets so that the door clears... I'll let you know then
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 09:51 PM
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I had the same issue but found out my drivers side frame motor mount was about 1/2 inch to high. it had been ripped loose from a bb at one time and rewelded in wrong location!!??
after fixing the motor mount it was still real close using the factory slots in frame so i welded the mounting bolts to the frame where it would not bind the headers or cause a door rubbing issue!!
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Old Nov 8, 2007 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by yellow 72
I bent the mounting tabs to angle the pipe opening downward just because I think it looks better, but in your case it will gain you some clearance.
I did the same thing with mine because I had the same issue with the doors hitting the tubes.
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