PPG paint help please
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Joined: Apr 2007
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PPG paint help please
I have not painted in 20 years so I'm clueless as to the available products today.
Im using PPG stuff and have some questions about what PPG products to use.
I have already used DP40LF and I'm at the point where I would (years ago) block sand with 80s (dupont) primer then use a sealer and toss on some enamel paint.
So in this new day of technology what do I use next? The paint shop tried to recommend a two part primer......... Why? I just need to level and fill sand scratches........
I assume I will still seal the fill work with something?
What base and clear coat will I be looking to use for an overall paint job in PPG products?
Please help me convert old school to new school.
Im using PPG stuff and have some questions about what PPG products to use.
I have already used DP40LF and I'm at the point where I would (years ago) block sand with 80s (dupont) primer then use a sealer and toss on some enamel paint.
So in this new day of technology what do I use next? The paint shop tried to recommend a two part primer......... Why? I just need to level and fill sand scratches........
I assume I will still seal the fill work with something?
What base and clear coat will I be looking to use for an overall paint job in PPG products?
Please help me convert old school to new school.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,036
Likes: 2
From: Huntingburg Indiana
The 2 part primer is a good thing to use. It chemically hardens instead of air drying like the old lacquer. PPG k36 works great. PPG DBC base is my favorite. It reduces 1:1 with DT urethane reducer. I like their dcu2002 clear. It mixes 4:1:1 with the same dt reducer and dcx61 hardener. I used PPG paints when I worked in the body shop and I like them for my personal use, too. I believe it is a superior product that goes a long way.
Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,092
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From: walpole ma
k36 has now been replaced by k38. the ppg concept clear is pretty good .(definately better than dupont in my opinion). you will have good results with the two part catalised primer as the other forum member posted. As the DEP laws change, so do the products,thats why you probably wont recognize much on the shelves these days
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RUT ROW..... Did I make a mistake coming home with DZ7 instead of NCP250. (that was what he recommended)
I opted out of the NCP for pot life. So my oldskool self told me anyway.
So I have not used the DZ yet so I could take it back for the K38 if I need to. I'm not seeing that the DZ is OK to seal with NCS2004. (which WAS the plan)
So what would the up to date folks do at this point? I had planed on using a sealer of some sort. (worked very well in the past) Maybe not needed today?
You are so right I see NOTHING on the shelf that looks like it ever went thru my Thor Model 7. Anybody remember that one?
I opted out of the NCP for pot life. So my oldskool self told me anyway.
So I have not used the DZ yet so I could take it back for the K38 if I need to. I'm not seeing that the DZ is OK to seal with NCS2004. (which WAS the plan)
So what would the up to date folks do at this point? I had planed on using a sealer of some sort. (worked very well in the past) Maybe not needed today?
You are so right I see NOTHING on the shelf that looks like it ever went thru my Thor Model 7. Anybody remember that one?
Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: walpole ma
The only time we use a sealer before a top coat is when the paint is on the transparent side and we dont want to put a lot of coats of base on to cover.You can top coat right over the k38.Now if you dont want to do a base coat clear coat, you can use single stage urethane paints from PPG.(ask about them). It's like the old dupont centari but is urethane not acrylic. It will also give you good results.
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If you mean why I haven't used the DZ yet.... I just came home with it yesterday.
I'm doing an 81 that I striped down and shot DP40LF on it and now I'm gonna blocksand for about a decade (it'll feel like it anyway
)
It had been some interesting colors in the past and and gosh knows what paint was on it here and there. Striping it down I still felt uncomfortable going all the way to glass. I tried to go to factory primer but lots of panel work had been done to this car at some point.
It was hard to find in some places, so I settled for semi straight and expoxy primed it. So I had a good place to start so to speak.
I'm doing an 81 that I striped down and shot DP40LF on it and now I'm gonna blocksand for about a decade (it'll feel like it anyway
)It had been some interesting colors in the past and and gosh knows what paint was on it here and there. Striping it down I still felt uncomfortable going all the way to glass. I tried to go to factory primer but lots of panel work had been done to this car at some point.
It was hard to find in some places, so I settled for semi straight and expoxy primed it. So I had a good place to start so to speak.
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Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: walpole ma
At the stage you are at you should consider a polyester sprayable filler.(PPG has it for about $70 a gallon).think of it as liquid bondo. you can spray it on ,sand with 150 grit to get the car straight and then go to primer.I dont reccomend putting the k38 over very thick sanding scratches due to the fact that if any shrinking occurs you will see them.The polyester also works great in holding down old body work from resurfacing later on.
I do have some nasty places but most of the body is good. Say I do the "liquid bondo" What primer would you suggest over it? Or are at a sealer stage now?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
r-r vette
i'm confused. if you are using the polyester sprayable filler, does it replace the epoxy coat that others have recommended here, or do you apply it after or before you apply epoxy. and when do you use the thin body fillers (vettefill) to help level the defects? and when and why do you need primers if you are covering epoxy?
jeff
i'm confused. if you are using the polyester sprayable filler, does it replace the epoxy coat that others have recommended here, or do you apply it after or before you apply epoxy. and when do you use the thin body fillers (vettefill) to help level the defects? and when and why do you need primers if you are covering epoxy?
jeff
Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,092
Likes: 2
From: walpole ma
r-r vette
i'm confused. if you are using the polyester sprayable filler, does it replace the epoxy coat that others have recommended here, or do you apply it after or before you apply epoxy. and when do you use the thin body fillers (vettefill) to help level the defects? and when and why do you need primers if you are covering epoxy?
jeff
i'm confused. if you are using the polyester sprayable filler, does it replace the epoxy coat that others have recommended here, or do you apply it after or before you apply epoxy. and when do you use the thin body fillers (vettefill) to help level the defects? and when and why do you need primers if you are covering epoxy?
jeff
polyester filler needs to be primed over after it is applied.It is not to be used as a primer.(it makes it easier to sand and get an overall job done quicker and has good sealing abilities as far as holding stuff down from sinking etc. On pre 72 vettes we at our shop gelcoat the cars when they are down to bare glass.then we use the poly, prime and paint(with a lot of sanding in between. On the later SMC cars we epoxy to seal the glass, then use the poly ,prime and paint. As much as gelcoat is a pain to use I still swear by it for the older cars.(I know there are differing opinions here saying gelcoat is outdated and such but I prefer it) .Bottom line is as long as the job comes out good someones prefference on material is just that.As far as what filler to use that greately depends on the particular defect and the situation that has to be adressed.This is a very broad subject, I am just giving some general insight. If you want to check out our work please check out our website
http://www.2ndgenrestorations.com
Stan
