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No tape I did mine with all stainless steel and had no leaks. The sealing is not in the threads it is in the flair fitting. Just make sure the flair and the seat are VERY clean and make sure you tighten all up really well. I would suggest a reasonalble priced power bleeder when you go to bleed.
getting ready to put the ss brake lines in my 69 project. do i need to put teflon tape or anything on the threaded connections? thanks
No tape! Flare fittings are sealed by the male and female flare surfaces. Putting anything on the threads (other than anti-seize paste, which I HIGHLY recommend) can keep the threads from putting proper pressure on the flare, actually causing leaks.
[QUOTE=coinwasher;1562843092]No tape I did mine with all stainless steel and had no leaks. The sealing is not in the threads it is in the flair fitting. Just make sure the flair and the seat are VERY clean and make sure you tighten all up really well. I would suggest a reasonalble priced power bleeder when you go to bleed.QUOTE]
Did mine this year - no tape. Bled and no leaks. Fully agree about the power bleeder but use "C" clamps to hold the cover on the master cylinder. I learned the hard way that the chain and "j" tensioners are totally worthless!
I would highly recommend getting new brass blocks, also. I compared a brand new block against an original block and could see that the mating cone on the inside of the block definitely does get deformed once a brake line gets installed to it for the first time. You might get lucky and get the connection to seal, but it's good insurance to keep from redoing one or more connections once you start bleeding. A little more money spent on blocks could prevent a great deal of aggravation (voice of experience).
I would highly recommend getting new brass blocks, also. I compared a brand new block against an original block and could see that the mating cone on the inside of the block definitely does get deformed once a brake line gets installed to it for the first time. You might get lucky and get the connection to seal, but it's good insurance to keep from redoing one or more connections once you start bleeding. A little more money spent on blocks could prevent a great deal of aggravation (voice of experience).
i attempted to use the old blocks not knowing about that but i didn't even get that far. the old block snapped in half as i was installing the flex line, cost me another week as I waited for parts in the mail.....
I would highly recommend getting new brass blocks, also. I compared a brand new block against an original block and could see that the mating cone on the inside of the block definitely does get deformed once a brake line gets installed to it for the first time. You might get lucky and get the connection to seal, but it's good insurance to keep from redoing one or more connections once you start bleeding. A little more money spent on blocks could prevent a great deal of aggravation (voice of experience).
Here is a pic of the new and old blocks that I was talking about. It gave me fits. I replaced the brake line going into it twice before I figured it out...
thanks for the great response i did buy all new blocks and starting attaching the lines today. now getting ready to put the bird in the oven tomorrow, watch some football, and have some cold brews
A few tips from my expierence:
Make sure your brake line flares line up perfectly with the block flare before tightening. Don't expect to seal them by tightening them into place.
Stainless lines need a "bit" more torque to seal.
Have at it...
Eddie
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