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Which ZZ4 do I have??? pics...

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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 02:02 AM
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Default Which ZZ4 do I have??? pics...

Spedaleden (of THIS forum fame) asked me which ZZ4 I have and how much HP...I thought a ZZ4 was a ZZ4 was a ZZ4....355hp/405lb-ft... I bought it from an Army guy who decided not to finish his project. Came with invoice from Bobby Murray Chev in Raleigh, part number 24502609, purchased Feb 3, 2005.

Heres some pictures. If I dont have a plain vanilla ZZ4, with published specs, maybe somebody can enlighten me!!

Yea I know the water pumps gotta be changed!













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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 02:51 AM
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Googled the part # and came up with this.

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...x?Product_ID=4

Some outfits offer upgrades, heads, cams, and such which I'm sure was why you were asked.

BTW.. The ZZ4 shortblock is used by the Fastburn 385 the heads being the difference. Then can be upgraded to the ZZ430 by adding the HotCam and 1:6 roller rockers

Last edited by DZRick; Dec 28, 2007 at 02:57 AM.
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 09:26 AM
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Just a tip form someone that's bought a few GM crate motors before. Pull the oil pan off, and check the torque specs on all of the rod and main caps. I have found a few that were not tightened to spec. At the same time, I think it would be a good idea to adjust the rockers yourself before you install it. I have seen them slightly out of adjustment before too.
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Just a tip form someone that's bought a few GM crate motors before. Pull the oil pan off, and check the torque specs on all of the rod and main caps. I have found a few that were not tightened to spec.
The rods should ideally be tightened using a rod stretch gauge, not a torque wrench. Unless you have a rod stretch gauge, I would not mess with the rod bolts. Also, make sure your torque wrench is properly calibrated. GM uses some state of the art equipment when torquing bolts and I would be inclined to trust their accuracy over a home mechanic's torque wrench.

Last edited by rcread; Dec 28, 2007 at 10:37 AM.
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by rcread
The rods should ideally be tightened using a rod stretch gauge, not a torque wrench. Unless you have a rod stretch gauge, I would not mess with the rod bolts. Also, make sure your torque wrench is properly calibrated. GM uses some state of the art equipment when torquing bolts and I would be inclined to trust their accuracy over a home mechanic's torque wrench.

Unless you had your torque wrench calibrated lately, I wouldn't retighten the rods. Overtightening them is not a good thing either.

Also, there is only one GM ZZ4 unless the dealership had swapped in the "hot cam" or something else. GM designated the other engine varitaions as ZZ430, Fast Burn, etc.

Last edited by Jason Staley; Dec 28, 2007 at 10:52 AM.
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason Staley

Unless you had your torque wrench calibrated lately, I wouldn't retighten the rods. Overtightening them is not a good thing either.

I agree it's not good to have over tightened rod caps but it's just as bad if one or more are loose. I didn't say tighten them, I said check them, and re-torque if needed. Three step.
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 11:21 AM
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ZZ4's only come "vanilla". If you want chocolate or strawberry (un-vanilla) then you'll have to do a little wrenching...
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 11:51 AM
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Here's what I found from GM Performance. The part number 24502609 is the base ZZ4 with aluminum heads. Part number 12499712 is your engine in a turn key, which means pulleys serp system carb etc. According to GM your motor should be around 355 HP. GM does rate this with no accessories on the motor when dynoed.

This motor will give you some very nice get up and go.

Enjoy
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by spedaleden
Here's what I found from GM Performance. The part number 24502609 is the base ZZ4 with aluminum heads. Part number 12499712 is your engine in a turn key, which means pulleys serp system carb etc. According to GM your motor should be around 355 HP. GM does rate this with no accessories on the motor when dynoed.

This motor will give you some very nice get up and go.

Enjoy
Thanks, thats what I thought i bought....WHEW!! You had me thinking there!!!
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by MakoShark72
Thanks, thats what I thought i bought....WHEW!! You had me thinking there!!!
I'm glad you two got that straightened out.
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by DZRick
I'm glad you two got that straightened out.
Geez! Me too! Maybe I'll sleep better TONIGHT!!
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 12:36 PM
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I could be wrong but those angle-plug heads could make header fitment troublesome. If you plan to run headers, you may need to specifiy angle-plug.

Last edited by toddalin; Dec 28, 2007 at 09:02 PM.
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 12:40 PM
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Mine came with the flames already installed

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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by toddalin
I could be wrong but those angle-plug heads could make header fitment troublesome. If you run headres, you may need to specifiy angle-plug.
Dynomax headers fit the heads fine. No spark plug issues.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Jason Staley
Dynomax headers fit the heads fine. No spark plug issues.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Already have Hooker Side Mounts. Just put them up to the motor, no problems!!
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Jason Staley
Dynomax headers fit the heads fine. No spark plug issues.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
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Old Dec 29, 2007 | 04:41 PM
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I asked the same question to a GM tech. A few years ago. How can I tell the difference between A regular engine and a ZZ4. He told me to look at the front of the head. It's stamped right on the alum face of each head. I look at all zz's now. If there isn't a stamp it's not a ZZ4.
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