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Spedaleden (of THIS forum fame) asked me which ZZ4 I have and how much HP...I thought a ZZ4 was a ZZ4 was a ZZ4....355hp/405lb-ft... I bought it from an Army guy who decided not to finish his project. Came with invoice from Bobby Murray Chev in Raleigh, part number 24502609, purchased Feb 3, 2005.
Heres some pictures. If I dont have a plain vanilla ZZ4, with published specs, maybe somebody can enlighten me!!
Some outfits offer upgrades, heads, cams, and such which I'm sure was why you were asked.
BTW.. The ZZ4 shortblock is used by the Fastburn 385 the heads being the difference. Then can be upgraded to the ZZ430 by adding the HotCam and 1:6 roller rockers
Just a tip form someone that's bought a few GM crate motors before. Pull the oil pan off, and check the torque specs on all of the rod and main caps. I have found a few that were not tightened to spec. At the same time, I think it would be a good idea to adjust the rockers yourself before you install it. I have seen them slightly out of adjustment before too.
Just a tip form someone that's bought a few GM crate motors before. Pull the oil pan off, and check the torque specs on all of the rod and main caps. I have found a few that were not tightened to spec.
The rods should ideally be tightened using a rod stretch gauge, not a torque wrench. Unless you have a rod stretch gauge, I would not mess with the rod bolts. Also, make sure your torque wrench is properly calibrated. GM uses some state of the art equipment when torquing bolts and I would be inclined to trust their accuracy over a home mechanic's torque wrench.
The rods should ideally be tightened using a rod stretch gauge, not a torque wrench. Unless you have a rod stretch gauge, I would not mess with the rod bolts. Also, make sure your torque wrench is properly calibrated. GM uses some state of the art equipment when torquing bolts and I would be inclined to trust their accuracy over a home mechanic's torque wrench.
Unless you had your torque wrench calibrated lately, I wouldn't retighten the rods. Overtightening them is not a good thing either.
Also, there is only one GM ZZ4 unless the dealership had swapped in the "hot cam" or something else. GM designated the other engine varitaions as ZZ430, Fast Burn, etc.
Last edited by Jason Staley; Dec 28, 2007 at 10:52 AM.
Unless you had your torque wrench calibrated lately, I wouldn't retighten the rods. Overtightening them is not a good thing either.
I agree it's not good to have over tightened rod caps but it's just as bad if one or more are loose. I didn't say tighten them, I said check them, and re-torque if needed. Three step.
Here's what I found from GM Performance. The part number 24502609 is the base ZZ4 with aluminum heads. Part number 12499712 is your engine in a turn key, which means pulleys serp system carb etc. According to GM your motor should be around 355 HP. GM does rate this with no accessories on the motor when dynoed.
This motor will give you some very nice get up and go.
Here's what I found from GM Performance. The part number 24502609 is the base ZZ4 with aluminum heads. Part number 12499712 is your engine in a turn key, which means pulleys serp system carb etc. According to GM your motor should be around 355 HP. GM does rate this with no accessories on the motor when dynoed.
This motor will give you some very nice get up and go.
Enjoy
Thanks, thats what I thought i bought....WHEW!! You had me thinking there!!!
I asked the same question to a GM tech. A few years ago. How can I tell the difference between A regular engine and a ZZ4. He told me to look at the front of the head. It's stamped right on the alum face of each head. I look at all zz's now. If there isn't a stamp it's not a ZZ4.