olds120

Guys,
I am looking at a numbers matching 1971 LT1 coupe and am wondering if anyone can tell me what to look for besides the numbers on the engine to verify its a real one.. I dont know much about it except that its supposed to be rust free and in good condition. Assuming its a good "driver" what would it be worth? I saw one on fleabay that needed to be restored and sold for $23,500. Any opinions would be helpful!!

Nowhere Man

If you really dont know what to look for you might want to think about paying someone who does know what they are looking at.

Alan 71

While it's pretty easy to describe a REAL LT-1 , it takes a knowledgable person to recognize a FAKE. Nowhere Man is right, after looking at the car, if you're still interested, find someone who is familiar with LT-1s to look at it in depth. If you pay for an LT-1 you should get an LT-1. They ARE wonderful cars!!!
Regards,
Alan

olds120

Thanks gor the info guys, and opinion on the value if its a real LT1 in driver condition?

pwsusi

Here's a thread describing some of the things you should look for....
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1875082

As far as value, it's hard to say without seeing the car. Cars that are restored seem to go 30-40k range for a '71 LT-1 coupe. First thing I would do is check the condition of the frame and birdcage, check the numbers and overall condition of the car. Also look for some of the clues that it's a real LT-1 as described in the other thread or as the others have said get someone who knows these cars to look at it for you. As with any car, get an idea for what the value of a finished one is, then start deducting for all the things you see wrong with the car (ex, if it needs paint, missing things like TI, smog, etc.).

Good luck.

Paul

dmayhew

The advice to have some go with you is good advice , but since you are going tomorrow that may be impossible.

There are a few things that only a LT-1 would have , some are pretty easy to change out and some are not very easy at all.

in no piticular order.

1st. No 1970 or 1971 LT-1 had A/C

2nd. Emmission sticker on fire wall behind master cylinder should have letters AX on upper left corner for a 71.

3rd. All LT-1's are 4 speeds. (M20 was std , M21/M22 were optional)

4th. Tach has 6,500 RPM red line on 1970 & 1971 and on 72's w/o AC

5th. All 71 LT-1's came with A.I.R. system. If removed should still have manifolds with holes for the tubes, Car may have headers and if so ask to see old manifolds.

6th. LT-1's had copper radiator W/O a overflow canisiter on the passanger side fenderwell. There should also be no holes whers one had been mounted.


7th. All 70 / 71 LT-1's had Tranisitor Ign. system. That may have been removed. But if it is removed look for the 3 holes on the front face of the driver side inner fender well where the Amplifer box was mounter.

Take a flashlight and look in front of the front wheel or open hood and look at it from the front side. 2 holes on bottom and 1 on top.


8th. Should have a Winters snowflake intake manifold with casting # 3959594


9th. LT-1's had a Holley carb. so there is only 1 fuel line , no return line like a quadra-jet carb. Look along frame rail on passanger side for the single line. Also the fuel tank is different. There should be no nipple on the passanger side, side wall for a return line.

If you lay on your back under the rear wheel you can reach your hand up and feel for an indention on the passanger side. If there is a nipple that is capped off , then beware.

Also the single fuel line on a LT-1 was not the same line that was used to feed fuel on the 2 line set up. So if someone removed the return line the look of the 3/8 line is still different. Not a big difference but if you can look at a car with a 2 line set up then you can see what you do not want to find.

10th. LT-1's had solid lifters , but if the car does not then that is not to big a red flag. Many people do not like them and may have replaced with HYD. lifters during a rebuild.


11th. The hardest to fake and most expensive would be the 4 bolt main block. No # on the outside of the block can verify this.

Only way to verify is to remove the pan or have a lighted optical viewer and remove the drain plug.


12th. LT-1's use 2.5" exhaust pipes like the big block cars. But the manifolds were still 2" set up. So the pipes flair from 2 to 2.5" about 6 inches from the manifold. The exhaust hangar at the trans is also different. Look on line at the Corvette Central site and you can see both 2" and 2.5" hangars.

13th. As I recall the highest rear end gear was 3:36 if trans was a M20

And id Trans was a M21 or M22 the 3:55 was highest gear

M20 3:36 Economy

3:55 Standard

3:70 Performance


M21 / M22

3:55 Economy

3:70 Standard

4:11 Performance

14th. The 71 /71 LT-1 Aluminum valve covers should have a rubber oil cap not a twist in. These covers are very hard to find. All the catalouges sell the twist in cap style.

15th. LT-1's have the same heavy duty half shaft retainers as big block cars. look at the rear end side yokes, there should be caps with bolts. Base cars used U bolts with nuts.

16th. The rocker arms have a letter O stamped in them.

17th. The balancer on the crankshaft is an 8" unit not a 6"



That is all I know of. and you could not fake all of this and sell a car for a mid 20's price and be worth the effort / expense.

So until someone finds the lost records from St Louis anyone buying a no base model car will be going out on a limb at little unless you are buying from the original owner.

Good Luck and I hope you get a good car / deal.

David

jim2527

Here's one of the better LT-1 threads...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...&highlight=LT1

olds120

Paul and David,
Thanks for sharing your knowledge....WOW thats alot of info!!!!!
I am going to print it out and take it with me. There is more than enough here for me to figure things out before I have to hire someone. I am hoping that there is documentation to go along with the car that would help substantiate the car.

Dave

AirTrafficController

Dave - a '71 LT-1 should say 330 hp on the plate below the shifter in the cockpit.

Also, the code on the engine block pad should have CGZ stamped on it, along with the VIN.

Check the fiber optics (the indicators on the floor console that show brake lights, headlights, turnsignals.) I have heard they are expensive to fix, if they don't work. 1971 was the last year for them.

I found this closed thread, too.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...635&forum_id=3

2th farmer

Great information guys! The only thing that I would add (may have been said, I scanned) DOCUMENTATION.

moosie982

I usta own 194671S101719, it was an Ontario Orange with black std. interior, black conv. top. I bought it new & I have some paperwork from then if anyone knows where this car is today, I will happily give it up to the present owner for nothing but a promise to pay it forward to someone else if it ever arises, I had a Hurst shifter in it, a Lakewood w/blocksaver plate scattershield along with a amber reverse light that I put on the dashboard, and unpolished American Racing 200S wheels. Two tops, but not factory. Wish I never sold it, it flew. Peace,,, Moosie

ipmtim

Good luck, the LT-1 is truely a special car.

kenba

Get someone that knows LT-1's& Corvettes to look at the car. Best money you will ever spend. Buy Dobens 68/72 book, NCRS & Corvette black Book.People who do there homework usually do not get screwed. Check body/frame damage & repair.also rust.
KEN

olds120

can someone explain to me or post a pic of what the A.I.R. system looks like?

Thanks

pwsusi

check out post #25, in front of the air cleaner towards on the passenger side. there are also smog lines coming off the exhaust manifolds that you can't see in this picture.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1907629&page=2


did you look at it yet, what did you think?

olds120

No , didint look at it yet. waiting for a phone call and as you can see still trying my best to be prepared

jr9170

It is hard to give you a price for the LT-1 you are going to look at without any kind of description of the shape that it is in.A "driver" can be a solid original LT-1 or it can be a halfass put together LT-1.

dmayhew

The main thing on the A.I.R system is a air pump that is belt driven that will be sitting high at the front of teh motor just above the motor stamp pad.

Basically a grey aluminum hsg.

From that there are hoses that attach to metal tubes that attached to the sides of the exhaust manifolds. 4 attachment points on each manifold

Here is a link to a recent thread where people posted photos of their cars. go to page 8 and scroll down to a posting by CCRYDER dated 1-3-2008 at 10:24PM the Green LT-1 at the bottom of that posting has a great photo of the AIR system.


David




http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1902097

olds120

Guys,

I went to look at the car tonight, unfortunatly it is raining. The guy didnt realize how long it was going to take and I only had @ 20 minutes to look at it. The garage was very small and you couldnt move around too much......He is going to bring it to my friends place Saturday to put it on jack stands so I can dig into it. But here is what I did see.

The A.I.R. is gone but the exhaust manifolds each have 4 plugs in them were it would have been connected.
The 3 holes for the T.I. amplifier in the left front in front of the radiator are there (no amplifier).
The dimples are still there in the inner fender on the pass side.
The exhaust goes from 2" to 2.5 " @ 6 " from the manifold.
The vin matches the pad stamp.
The paint looks good and shiny with only minor blemishes.
Good chrome.
The trans crossmember is welded.
Motor rebuilt in 97 to .30 over.
Carb # 3989022.
No deluxe interior.
Started right up, sounded good, no smoke.
The control arm bushings are shot!!!

No GM documentation at all, but a thick folder full of pictures of the paint job, reciepts and owner history back to the 2nd of eight owners with phone #'s ( didnt call anyone yet).
I will get more numbers and pics on Saturday.

Thanks for all your help Guys !!!!
Dave

gccch

Did you get any pics? What is the asking price?