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Hey guys - this is related to my other thread, but kinda different so i figured i'd just start anew. Many of you suggested a battery cutoff switch, which sounds like a great idea. Wanted to know if anyone has an opinion on these two cutoffs.... it looks to me like they both pretty much do the same thing but i'm not sure if i'm missing something cuz one of them is 5 bucks more and looks like it's a little different set up.
It doesn't go right to the items, but I found at least 1 of them. The twist switch is OK I guess. I have never heard of anyone having trouble out of them. I would worry about corrosion over time. I would suggest a cutoff switch like a Cole-Hersey 2484-09 or similar (the 2484-03 has a key). It is rated at 175 amps continuous or 1000 amps intermittent. I think Moroso offers a good one too.
I installed this cutoff from Flaming River and it does have a key
Home > Electrical Accessories > Battery Kill Switches / Lever Kits > The Big Switch with Removable Key
The Big Switch with Removable Key
From Flaming River Industries
The Big Switch with removable laser cut, stainless steel key enhances the security and safety features available with the Big Switch. This unit is rated at 250 amps continuous service and 2500 amps for 5 second intervals (12V / 24V) It is a heavy duty, waterproof switch. The removable key feature is ideal for construction, farm equipment and passenger cars. An absolutely essential theft deterrent.
COMPARE THE DIFFERENCE!
FEATURE Flaming River
Heavy Duty Switch Brand X
Switch
Rating (12V/16V/24V) Continuous
Rating (12V/16V/24V) Surge
Waterproof
Silver Plated Terminals
Design
Weight
Warranty 250 AMPS
2500 AMPS
YES
YES
Spring Loaded
17 oz.
3 Year 20 AMPS
125 AMPS
NO
NO
Rotary
14 oz.
None
i looked up "The Big Switch", as well as the cole hersee products, what kind of amperage do i need??? some of you guys say that you jsut got the 10 or 15 buck on, and others are reccommending cutoffs close to $100! i honestly want whatever is better, the money is not the issue. but, man, way to confuse me my car is stock 350/270 - does that at all lessen or change my requirements for the cutoff switch?
The twist type will put a good tight connection using just a light finger turn to "snug"...and it will mesh a good area of solid metal for a sound electrical connection. And, if you put it on the battery inside the car [out of the weather, etc.], it should give you years of good service without a hitch. I can't tell you how many times I've used the disconnect in the last couple of years, but it is reliable and easy and allows you to really disconnect the battery when you SHOULD [and if we don't have one, we sometimes work on the car anyway]. Best few bucks I ever spent on the car.
thanks guys. what i'm most psyched about actually, is finally getting SOME type of theft deterent on my car. it's rediculous the fear i live in everytime i park it. in fact, i usually only take it to places that have valet and that i KNOW will park it right out front
plus, as originally intended, i will try to make a habit of switching it every time i leave the car for weeks. no more jumps.... hopefully.
I saw one at a heavy equipment dealer; keyed, mounted through a 1' hole, and cost 28 bucks. It is good enough to handle battery power for a large deisel engine (2 batteries), so I guess the amp rating will start my little 327! I plan to mount it in the battery box, so if the slimeball theif even knows where the battery is on a C 3, he still will need a key to make it hot.
One thing about the rotary **** is that you can unscrew the **** and take it with you. Unless the thief has a spare **** the car will be very hard to start. If you are worried that the thief would have a spare **** you can rethread the base piece and the **** thread to something different and unusual.
Well, I guess I'll be the odd guy out on this - I installed the screw type **** on my '72 and '73, one's a top mount and the other a side mount. If you have a side mount, I'd highly advise you not use the **** type - the one that I have does not bolt to the battery post very well and the **** does not make a good solid contact either. This weekend I'll be installing a blade switch cutoff.
Also, in an emergency situation (such as an electrical fire), it's a faster to throw the blade switch than it is to unscrew a ****.
One thing about the rotary **** is that you can unscrew the **** and take it with you. Unless the thief has a spare **** the car will be very hard to start. If you are worried that the thief would have a spare **** you can rethread the base piece and the **** thread to something different and unusual.
Roger
of course that can all be combated with a wrench and about 2 mins of work.
I have a **** switch also. I've thought of swapping the key lock from the storage compartment to the battery compartment but just never got around to it.
I followed the directions in the below thread and installed it in my ’69 and I love it. One problem I see with the ones in the battery box is if your car is, or about to be on fire I want the switch to be as accessible as possible. I got my switch at the local napa and it has been working great and only cost about 12 bux. It only took a couple of hours to install and it is quick and easy to use. Just food for thought.