Trailers
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,720
Likes: 12
From: Chattanooga TN
The basic trailer in the Ebay ad is pretty good. For a low car like a Vette I would recommend a dovetail. I have purchased several trailers from Ed Smith Equipment in Murfreesboro, Tennessee. He has very good prices. His trailers are made by J&J which I think is in Mississippi. I currently have an 18' (total) with 2' dovetail, brakes on 1 axle, wood floor.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 289
Likes: 1
From: Valley Springs SD
I loaded with a 2' dovetail without a problem. The 5' ramps should give you a long enough slope/angle to not cause problems. If so, just carry a couple 2x10 "step ups". What's their price with the 2' dovetail?
The way set back stand is nice but see if they do one mounted slightly forward. The reason is that it is then easy to mount a standard over the bed rail truck tool box without interfering with the crank.
The way set back stand is nice but see if they do one mounted slightly forward. The reason is that it is then easy to mount a standard over the bed rail truck tool box without interfering with the crank.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 14,345
Likes: 4
From: Hartselle AL
St. Jude Donor '09
That's a good price - go for it, you won't regret it. Especially after reading your previous experiences with u-haul, et al.
The price for the 16'+2' (18' total) was $2200, so it was just $100 more for the 4' dovetail. Not really sure I need that either. I did talk to them in person and was very impressed with them. It is a great warranty (10 years!) With the Gov't rebate coming in it will make it easier!
Racer
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 495
Likes: 9
From: Galena OH
I have a Featherlite 3110 like the one pictured in this thread. I dont have a air dam on it presently, but the 3110 is a great trailer. It does cost a little more than the others, but it is well built trailer.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 0
From: Tampa FL
When you're looking for a trailer, be very careful about the position and height of the wheel wells before you buy. Measure them, and measure the height from the ground to the bottom of your door and make sure the wheel wells are lower to the deck. Or better yet, sit in the car and have someone else measure it - the weight of the driver might cause a drop of 1/2" to 1" or so, you want to make sure there is enough clearance for you to get out while you're in it.
I rented a UHAUL trailer once to tow one of my vettes to the track for the first time - when I pulled up on the trailer I couldn't open the doors. It was too late to get a different trailer so I had to leave the window down (or t-tops off) and pull a dukes of hazard to get in and out.
I rented a UHAUL trailer once to tow one of my vettes to the track for the first time - when I pulled up on the trailer I couldn't open the doors. It was too late to get a different trailer so I had to leave the window down (or t-tops off) and pull a dukes of hazard to get in and out.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,209
Likes: 12
From: Montgomery Alabama
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '06
All the U-Haul trailers I have rented had removable driver's side fenders, so I could get out of the car after I got it on the trailer.
When I picked up my 82, I borrowed a friends trailer. It is a 22' dove tail, and it was great! The car didn't have any problems getting on it.
When I picked up my 82, I borrowed a friends trailer. It is a 22' dove tail, and it was great! The car didn't have any problems getting on it.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
From: Bardstown Ky
I had to install a pair of "Race Ramps" in the nose of my enclosed for the very reason you guys mention: not enough clearance for the door bottom.
here's a trailer for sale on the Forum which might interest someone:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1915610
here's a trailer for sale on the Forum which might interest someone:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1915610
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,172
Likes: 86
From: State of Confusion
I know that I can open the door of my '82 when on my Econo-Trailer with room-to-spare, and that C3s, with a more ground-clearence than most C4/up cars, have a better chance of clearing the fender-tops, but it'd be a good-idea to measure first.
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Instructor
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 188
Likes: 20
From: Victoria Texas
I can't remember what brand my trailer is but it is all aluminum and I definitely recommend aluminum. I pulled this trailer empty from Texas to Ohio then picked up this '77 and towed it back with no problems whatsoever. Also, as someone else has probably mentioned, make sure that the driver side fender is removeable on whatever trailer you buy so you can open the door. Another good option is the front air dam on one which will protect your car. Make sure that whatever you buy has long ramps and good tiedowns.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 21,427
Likes: 456
From: Massillon,Ohio USA
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Cruise-In VI Veteran
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12
...got my trailer back in '91 for $800. Sat in the backyard of a friend who paid $1700 for it new in '88. Was used less than a dozen times.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,172
Likes: 86
From: State of Confusion
When I started trailering my '82, the integrated chin-spoiler wouldn't quite clear, so I built these cheap-but-functional 'ramp-extensions', from a pair of 8' long 1" x 10"s, and a 2' length of 2" x 10"
The base is a 44"-long piece of the 1" x 10", with a 33" piece of same screwed into it:
I screwed another 11" long 1" x 10" to that piece, exactly 22" from the back (Right ) edge, then added a 10" long piece of 2" x 10" to the edge, leaving a 1" wide 'gap', for the Right-angled edge of the ramp to 'seat-into'.
(These allows the car to begin rising gradually, gaining about 3" elevation in 33" of distance-traveled )
I then nailed some old shingles to the top-surfaces, for better traction in wet-conditions, and added simple cabinet handles from Home Depot to one side, and each end, for handling:
this provides plenty of clearence for an '80-up C3, and would probably deliver even-more clearence on pre-'79 cars, too.
The base is a 44"-long piece of the 1" x 10", with a 33" piece of same screwed into it:
I screwed another 11" long 1" x 10" to that piece, exactly 22" from the back (Right ) edge, then added a 10" long piece of 2" x 10" to the edge, leaving a 1" wide 'gap', for the Right-angled edge of the ramp to 'seat-into'.
(These allows the car to begin rising gradually, gaining about 3" elevation in 33" of distance-traveled )
I then nailed some old shingles to the top-surfaces, for better traction in wet-conditions, and added simple cabinet handles from Home Depot to one side, and each end, for handling:
this provides plenty of clearence for an '80-up C3, and would probably deliver even-more clearence on pre-'79 cars, too.
Terrorizing Orange Cones
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,572
Likes: 17
From: Northern CO
More Trailer Pics
That's some good help there. I worry about those low hanging nose pieces for trailers that may not have a dove-tail or if short ramps may hamper loading.
Glensgages: I know you said no hurry on those images and thought I could upload my junk yesterday. "Missed it by THAT much!" [Get Smart-LOL]
I didn't want to swamp this thread with too many oversized trailer pics so instead I'll post the link to my album on photobucket: http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh307/Dustup7T2/
I uploaded a dozen new diff trailer related images [trailer06 thru trailer17] so you or anyone else can gander at your leisure. One of the nicest features I like is the removable fenders to assist opening doors after load, as previously mentioned. Saves practicing the Dukes of Hazzard ingress/egress for those of us less nimble.
I hope I posted the link correctly; first chance to do it. I'll monitor for a day or three in case I messed up.
Thanks to Matt Rogers/Durango_Boy for the pdf file on "How To" with pics. Good help and much appreciated.
