powdercoating setups
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,363
Likes: 303
From: Lansdale 19446 PA
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '10-'11, '15, '19
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 274
Likes: 2
From: Finger TN
Every where I have read about powder coating strongly discourage the use of you regular oven. You do get spatter from the curing process. I should take a picture of theinside of my oven so you can see what a year plus of curing does.
Keep an eye out of Craigslist - I see ovens locally for free.
Keep an eye out of Craigslist - I see ovens locally for free.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,176
Likes: 7
From: Jennings LA
Before I pc a part, I'll typically blast it or scrub it clean, wipe it down then outgas at a bit higher than cure temperature for twice the cure temperature time - so if powder cure is 10 mins @ 400F, then I'll outgas for 20 mins @ 425F. Once it cools, I go over it with acetone and if the rag comes away dirty, re-outgas it then wipe it down again with acetone. I'll do this as many times as it takes for the rag to come away clean. Just before I hit it with the pc, I run a propane torch over the jub quickly to make sure there's no bits of lint or rag material left on the job.
I pre-heat the oven and put the part in for curing only once the oven's come up to temp - that way the part is only in tere for the cure time.
Personally, I only have one gun and use it for all my colours without any problems.
Don't use duct tape as that will turn to rat $hit and leave melted adhesive on your job. To mask parts up, either use hi-temp tape or even aluminium foil an ordinary masking tape. If you're worried about the tape burning during cure, wait until the powder starts to flow out then pull the part from the oven and unmask it then pop it back into the oven for full cure.
A few parts I've done for my 82...
]
I pre-heat the oven and put the part in for curing only once the oven's come up to temp - that way the part is only in tere for the cure time.
Personally, I only have one gun and use it for all my colours without any problems.
Don't use duct tape as that will turn to rat $hit and leave melted adhesive on your job. To mask parts up, either use hi-temp tape or even aluminium foil an ordinary masking tape. If you're worried about the tape burning during cure, wait until the powder starts to flow out then pull the part from the oven and unmask it then pop it back into the oven for full cure.
A few parts I've done for my 82...
]
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: AL
Before I pc a part, I'll typically blast it or scrub it clean, wipe it down then outgas at a bit higher than cure temperature for twice the cure temperature time - so if powder cure is 10 mins @ 400F, then I'll outgas for 20 mins @ 425F. Once it cools, I go over it with acetone and if the rag comes away dirty, re-outgas it then wipe it down again with acetone. I'll do this as many times as it takes for the rag to come away clean. Just before I hit it with the pc, I run a propane torch over the jub quickly to make sure there's no bits of lint or rag material left on the job.
I pre-heat the oven and put the part in for curing only once the oven's come up to temp - that way the part is only in tere for the cure time.
Personally, I only have one gun and use it for all my colours without any problems.
Don't use duct tape as that will turn to rat $hit and leave melted adhesive on your job. To mask parts up, either use hi-temp tape or even aluminium foil an ordinary masking tape. If you're worried about the tape burning during cure, wait until the powder starts to flow out then pull the part from the oven and unmask it then pop it back into the oven for full cure.
A few parts I've done for my 82...
I pre-heat the oven and put the part in for curing only once the oven's come up to temp - that way the part is only in tere for the cure time.
Personally, I only have one gun and use it for all my colours without any problems.
Don't use duct tape as that will turn to rat $hit and leave melted adhesive on your job. To mask parts up, either use hi-temp tape or even aluminium foil an ordinary masking tape. If you're worried about the tape burning during cure, wait until the powder starts to flow out then pull the part from the oven and unmask it then pop it back into the oven for full cure.
A few parts I've done for my 82...
Wow - great work!
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,930
Likes: 15
From: Calgary Alberta
Here is my powdercoating process...
1) degrease the parts
2) sandblast them
3) blow them off with compressed air
4) use wax and grease remover until the rag wipes off clean
5) place the parts in the oven to burn off any other oils I have missed
6) let the parts cool
7) apply powder
8) place in oven to cure
Here are some Items I did...
Here is the blast cabinet I made - I cut the wood panels at school and assembled it at home...it works great.
1) degrease the parts
2) sandblast them
3) blow them off with compressed air
4) use wax and grease remover until the rag wipes off clean
5) place the parts in the oven to burn off any other oils I have missed
6) let the parts cool
7) apply powder
8) place in oven to cure
Here are some Items I did...
Here is the blast cabinet I made - I cut the wood panels at school and assembled it at home...it works great.
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Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,930
Likes: 15
From: Calgary Alberta
I think around $200. I built it as a school project, so I had to use expensive plywood to make it look good. I made the cabinet hopper out of 1/8'' steel because it was easier to cut and deal with than having to deal with all the angles with 3/4'' plywood. The metal cost a lot to build it too. It can be built for about $100 if you budget it out...I had to finish it before the semester was over, so I was pressed for time - that's why I used metal on the hopper...it was easier to work with. THe plywood wasn't cheap either...I think its altic birch. You can use the cheap stuff from home depot and it will work just fine...that's what I would have done if I didn't have to make it look good, but that wasn't the case.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 1
From: Aussie expat in Saudi Arabia
Eastwood sells powder for around $18 a pound
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...mType=CATEGORY
And I've also bought powder from this seller:
http://stores.ebay.com/Ohio-Custom-C...Q3amesstQQtZkm
And their powder is anything from $6 - $14 a pound. I've had no problems with their powder
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...mType=CATEGORY
And I've also bought powder from this seller:
http://stores.ebay.com/Ohio-Custom-C...Q3amesstQQtZkm
And their powder is anything from $6 - $14 a pound. I've had no problems with their powder
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
From: Joplin Missouri
Ive got the craftsman setup and I use it for little parts that may not always be seen but ones hat i might not necisarily want to paint or leave bare metal, so I use the industrial colors that Sears sells. It works for me. But I see some powders out there that are base coat/top coat. Is it that simple pc one color, cure then top coat and cure again? After seeing some examples I would like to redo some parts.
Thanks
Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 1
From: Aussie expat in Saudi Arabia
Ive got the craftsman setup and I use it for little parts that may not always be seen but ones hat i might not necisarily want to paint or leave bare metal, so I use the industrial colors that Sears sells. It works for me. But I see some powders out there that are base coat/top coat. Is it that simple pc one color, cure then top coat and cure again? After seeing some examples I would like to redo some parts.
Thanks
Thanks
Yes, the base coat/top coat are as you describe
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 857
Likes: 1
From: Morrisonville Illinios
Columbia Coatings has lots of colors and prices are good they even have specials that you can get. Real quick on shipping and great to call if you got some questions.
Good Luck wro87
Good Luck wro87
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 274
Likes: 2
From: Finger TN
Oven hangers
OK, now that I have some good sources for powder, how about giving me some good ideas as far as hanging the parts in the oven. Did you buy a premade rack and hand it from the roof of the oven or did you create you own system. Please post some pics if you have any.
Thanks
Thanks
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,930
Likes: 15
From: Calgary Alberta
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,363
Likes: 303
From: Lansdale 19446 PA
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '10-'11, '15, '19
I made a "paint booth" out of a large computer box and hung a piece of slotted angle across the top. I use a small hanger thru a hole in the item I am coating and hang it in a hole inthe angle. Once I coat the part, I hang it in the oven using the oven rack that came with the oven.
The biggest PITA so far has been the lower control arms. They fit but it's not easy.