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Vacuum Reservoir removal

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Old Feb 9, 2008 | 09:52 AM
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Default Vacuum Reservoir removal

I need to replace my vacuum reservoir on an early 69. I do not want to remove the two major wire harnesses under the reservoir (looks like it would cause more problems). I have taken off the master cylinder and the clutch arm. I do not want to disassemble the steer column. Any suggestions?
PS: I'm still to locate a replacement reservoir.
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Old Feb 9, 2008 | 03:09 PM
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You didn't have to remove the clutch arm.

If you get the master cylinder and booster (if you have PB) it should snake out of the top.

I've done this and the service manual confirms it should work. Some of the screws are in the fender well.

Good Luck!!
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Old Feb 9, 2008 | 03:14 PM
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As far as a replacement, I've only seen the coffee can style available. Is the original repairable? If you have holes from rust you can sand the complete surface down, brush on a rust inhibitor(sp), and glass over the holes bad spots sand smooth prime and repaint.

edit: I just looked in the Paragon catalog and they have them but you'll need to call. I'm sure they will be expensive.

Last edited by GD70; Feb 9, 2008 at 03:18 PM.
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Old Feb 9, 2008 | 06:08 PM
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You can "glass-over" the holes or use JB Weld epoxy [on the outside of the cannister...remember, it's vacuum--not pressurized]. Just plug any cracks/holes, smooth it out so it's not too noticible, and paint it with Krylon semi-flat black spray paint. It should be good for another 20 years or so.
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by GD70
As far as a replacement, I've only seen the coffee can style available. Is the original repairable? If you have holes from rust you can sand the complete surface down, brush on a rust inhibitor(sp), and glass over the holes bad spots sand smooth prime and repaint.

edit: I just looked in the Paragon catalog and they have them but you'll need to call. I'm sure they will be expensive.
The tank (rectangular in shape) has "spider web" cracks all over. Seems like it deteriorated from the inside ... the outside has no rust.
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 02:17 PM
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Put a layer [or two] of fiberglass cloth and resin on the outside where it's cracked. That should seal it and give it strength/integrity again. Then just sand it a bit to smooth the repaired area out and shoot with the Krylon semi-flat black paint.
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 08:22 AM
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Thanks ...I'll give it a try.
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 03:15 PM
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I took mine out (69 too) a while back and also removed the master cylinder and 4-speed Z-bar. I think I also unbolted the horn relay and laid it over to the side. Even with all this out of the way you have to grease it up and get it into the exactly right position...say a few bad words and then hold you mouth just right and it will slide right out...trust me. I have not tried to reinstall it yet but am not looking forward to that task. Depending on where you have to glass over to seal it could make it thicker and harder to put back in. another alternative may be to cut out the fender side or bottom of the can and fab up a new box thats air tight and fits inside the original box to do the job of the vacuum and glass the side/bottom back on for a stock look instead of using the coffee can or expensive re-pops.

Last edited by chevyreb; Feb 12, 2008 at 03:17 PM.
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