LED Taillight install

The price has recently gone up - I got mine for $9.99 ea.
Other parts needed for this install is a
- 1/8"x1"x30" stick of aluminum flat bar from Home depot.
- (8) stainless steel 10x1 screws
- (4) 1/4-20 x 2 stainless flat head screws,
- (4) 1/4-20 stainless wing nuts
- some washers.
- Electronic flasher relay
$21.50 for ancillary
$61.50
Starting point:
Now I have a fiberglass rear tail cap so in some ways its a bit easier for me. but I wanted an install that was easily undoable without drilling any new holes so we decided that since the rubber grommet would prevent any rattling all we needed was a method to hold the light straight and in position.
Therefore we decided on a single post off the center of the light that went through a bar mounted in the taillight bucket. I would then mount the light with a wingnut from behind.
The post was countersunk into a short strip of aluminum which was then epoxied to the back of the taillight the center of the light being measured off the edge of the connector boss as seen in this image.
The mounting piece screws into the same holes that the original tailights attached to - so if I ever decide I need to go back the same holes are used.
The brackets are straightforward and look like this.
From behind the stud passes through the mounting bracket and is fastened with a wingnut touched with a dap of blue threadlocker.
To be honest the rest is just soldering and installing the lights..
The light buckets on the ZR-1 style cap is pretty deep so the lights are very unobtrusive during the day.
But the brakelights are quite visible during the day.
Finally once the car got in shadow we took a shot with just the headlights on.
And with the brakes on
A really easy install requiring nothing more than a hacksaw, dremel tool and soldering iron. Compared to my dim old taillights through original darkened lenses these things are like lasers..more than bright enough day or night.
- The ground wire is white.
- the Headlights Hot is black
- the directional/brake hot is red
It threw me for a loop as I am so used to black being a ground, so if anyone plans to do this keep that in mind.
The pigtails provided are long enough that they can both be soldered to the place where you remove the factory socket then simply route one pigtail into each taillight bucket. with ample room to pull them through far enough to connect them.
Unfortunately they stopped making corvette parts not long thereafter and I havent seen the 3rd brakelight option since.
BTW this part bolted right on with no need for any fiberglass work to get it to align perfectly, unlike the many stories you hear about other bumpers.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Unfortunately they stopped making corvette parts not long thereafter and I havent seen the 3rd brakelight option since.
BTW this part bolted right on with no need for any fiberglass work to get it to align perfectly, unlike the many stories you hear about other bumpers.
Oh and I really like the color of your Vette
The rear bumper is a ZR-1 type with 3rd brakelight that I purchased from American Sportscar Design. I bought from them as theirs was the only one with the 3rd brakelight option..it uses the factory (91?) model year third brakelight.
Unfortunately they stopped making corvette parts not long thereafter and I havent seen the 3rd brakelight option since.
BTW this part bolted right on with no need for any fiberglass work to get it to align perfectly, unlike the many stories you hear about other bumpers.
They say electronic right on the packaging, whereas not all of the older ones will say thermal.
the difference? I couldnt tell ya since as far as electrical stuff goes all i know is that its important to keep the smoke in the wires.
Since I can't get much comment on my '74 specific request, this may be the best consideration. Was just hoping for feedback specific, so I'd know what to anticipate.
Thanks, Steve
p.s. & thanks to the one response regarding rear access and mounting configuration.
Since I can't get much comment on my '74 specific request, this may be the best consideration. Was just hoping for feedback specific, so I'd know what to anticipate.
Thanks, Steve
p.s. & thanks to the one response regarding rear access and mounting configuration.
There are higher watt LEDs in use but for the most part it's quantity and directionality.
Take the two bulbs pictured for instance. The one on the right has more LEDs, and is brighter overall, but the one on the left 'appeared' brighter because the majority of the LEDs aim straight out.

Then there are these...my favorites. Costly to say the least, but MAN are these bright.





There hypnotizing me!










