Painting fiberglass seat buckets
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jul 2005
Location: Bolingbrook Illinois
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Painting fiberglass seat buckets
I have a set of C4 seats I am redoing. The fiberglass buckets could use some "freshening". Is there a special paint/dye/etc I should be using? BTW-she is not stock, the numbers may not match but they get along, she is not entered in shows-just good old fun. I just need the seats to be decent. The Bubba in me even briefly considered Rustoleum satin black (I have some).
#2
Drifting
Member Since: May 2005
Location: BETHEL PARK PENNSYLVANIA
Posts: 1,601
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a set of C4 seats I am redoing. The fiberglass buckets could use some "freshening". Is there a special paint/dye/etc I should be using? BTW-she is not stock, the numbers may not match but they get along, she is not entered in shows-just good old fun. I just need the seats to be decent. The Bubba in me even briefly considered Rustoleum satin black (I have some).
vc
#3
Drifting
I just primed using the duplicolor filler primer (fills in the scratches after sanding) and then sprayed mine with a few coats of Rustoleum. Looks as good as new and if it ever needs to be touched up, it will be real easy to match. Did both the 80 & 81 this way, the 81 was about 7 years ago and it's still held up.
#4
Racer
Member Since: Nov 2007
Location: Toms River NJ
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08
I wouldnt use paint. Use interior dye from any of the corvette places. It is color matched and works the best. I used Mid-America interior dye for mine. The stuff works great, it fills all the grooves and really doesnt run.
#5
Drifting
dye=paint paint=dye
That'll get everyone going!
I'm no expert on interiors and try not to be a Bubba, but....
Used rattle can here. Go Bubba!
On hard fiberglass, metal, or plastic, the color is not absorbed into the material. It just sits on top and looks pretty. What ever is the most durable will hold up the best. Therefore, I used Rustoleum as there are more color options and it is durable as well as less expensive and easier to find if you scratch it or damage it. Do make sure you prep correctly by sanding, cleaning, and priming. Also if you make multiple, light coats, your texture if you have any, will come through beautifully.
Now for all those I just upset, if your coloring soft vinyl, leather, cloth, carpet, something soft-by all means go dye as it is designed to be absorbed. If your trying to match a factory color like Oyster or some of the Reds, then you may have to go factory dye to color match.
That'll get everyone going!
I'm no expert on interiors and try not to be a Bubba, but....
Used rattle can here. Go Bubba!
On hard fiberglass, metal, or plastic, the color is not absorbed into the material. It just sits on top and looks pretty. What ever is the most durable will hold up the best. Therefore, I used Rustoleum as there are more color options and it is durable as well as less expensive and easier to find if you scratch it or damage it. Do make sure you prep correctly by sanding, cleaning, and priming. Also if you make multiple, light coats, your texture if you have any, will come through beautifully.
Now for all those I just upset, if your coloring soft vinyl, leather, cloth, carpet, something soft-by all means go dye as it is designed to be absorbed. If your trying to match a factory color like Oyster or some of the Reds, then you may have to go factory dye to color match.
Last edited by blckslvr79; 02-18-2008 at 02:21 PM.
#6
Drifting
I wonder how that dye would hold up on the seats. Seems every spray dye I've ever used just doesn't last there and I end up buying new seat covers.
Door panels tend to last a little longer, but even then it rubs off over time. I did a color change on the 80 this summer and it's already rubbing off on the drivers side door ... maybe I should give this stuff a try.
Door panels tend to last a little longer, but even then it rubs off over time. I did a color change on the 80 this summer and it's already rubbing off on the drivers side door ... maybe I should give this stuff a try.
#7
Drifting
I used spray dye on a set of cloth bucket seats years ago and had no issue on the cloth, but I've heard issues with dye on vinyl seats that it rubs off. My guess is that the dye does not absorb into the material as much as when new. Where as on cloth or carpet there is a lot of fibers to grab hold of.
Although I used a combination of Rustoleum and Dupli-color paint on my 79 last summer, I did use spray die on the center armrest, as it is rubber and I was concerned that paint would flex off. The dye took to it great (changed from oyster to black) with two coats and it stayed fully flexible. Looks like new.
Although I used a combination of Rustoleum and Dupli-color paint on my 79 last summer, I did use spray die on the center armrest, as it is rubber and I was concerned that paint would flex off. The dye took to it great (changed from oyster to black) with two coats and it stayed fully flexible. Looks like new.
#8
Racer
Member Since: Mar 2006
Location: Guantanamo Bay, Cuba (home in Colorado Springs)
Posts: 291
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I used the same prep & dye that I used on the seats & other interior plastic. Worked fine. You can find this spray dye at any paint store that sell automotice paints. By-the-way, Doeskin is same as Buckskin as far as my eyes can tell, so you might be able to mix & match color"names" to get exact matches.
#9
Team Owner
Dye is not paint.. And paint is not dye. Paint is relatively permanent, but can peel and chip. Dye IS permanent and doesn't chip or peel (if put on properly). Have you ever had any peeling from original interior surfaces? I think not.
The reasons some folks have problems getting dye to stick are: they buy cheap dye rather than going to an auto paint supply store (SEM dyes are very good); they don't get all the Armor-all [or similar petroleum based goo] off the parts before they dye them. When you've used that cr@p for years on your interior parts, it takes some effort to get it off, rinse them well, and dry the parts. That isn't asking too much for prep work, is it?
The reasons some folks have problems getting dye to stick are: they buy cheap dye rather than going to an auto paint supply store (SEM dyes are very good); they don't get all the Armor-all [or similar petroleum based goo] off the parts before they dye them. When you've used that cr@p for years on your interior parts, it takes some effort to get it off, rinse them well, and dry the parts. That isn't asking too much for prep work, is it?