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Hey bros, I just pulled my carb off and sent it to Lars for a rebuild, car sat for 15years with only 8900 miles on it. Anyway I am not looking to do a restoration to the engine bay because I hope to get it to Bloomington or a NCRS event and have it looked at for originality. I have checked all the numbers and the only thing I find replaced is the front shocks. I have seen a number of threads where simply green is recommended. After I seal off the intake and possibly bag the distributor is there anything else I need to do to prevent any problems with putting water in the compartment. Also, if this is not a recommended method, what method should I use. Thanks
If you're really thinking about 'Survivor' and/or 'Bow Tie', I'd be careful about cleaning anything since both groups are looking for ORIGINALITY not cleanliness. Now, if you're thinking about Certification or Flight Judging, cleanliness becomes an issue. Remember, Bow Tie judging is only done at the NCRS National Convention; which is St Louis this summer.
Regards,
Alan
PS: I believe the NCRS would even prefer that the carb. hadn't come off.
Simple Green is a concentrate that can be diluted to any degree desired. You can wipe it on with a cloth or spray it on with a Windex bottle. I have used it on a lot of parts and find that it works better if you scrape off most of the crud/grease before applying it. I use a toothbrush to loosen up the remaining grease after spraying. Don't forget to wash out the toothbrush or it tastes really bad when you brush your teeth.
Simple Green is a concentrate that can be diluted to any degree desired. You can wipe it on with a cloth or spray it on with a Windex bottle. I have used it on a lot of parts and find that it works better if you scrape off most of the crud/grease before applying it. I use a toothbrush to loosen up the remaining grease after spraying. Don't forget to wash out the toothbrush or it tastes really bad when you brush your teeth.
Rick B.
I had read that some guys would srpay it on , let it sit a while and then spray the engine bay with the hose to remove most of the grime. Is this method recommended or is it not a good idea to spray the entire bay.
I had read that some guys would srpay it on , let it sit a while and then spray the engine bay with the hose to remove most of the grime. Is this method recommended or is it not a good idea to spray the entire bay.
I have done this with great success and no starting or other problems about once a year for the last 5 years. Cover the distributor and alternator with a couple of plastic bags for each- and clean them separately by hand later, Liberally spray every nook n cranny of the engine compartment with atleast 50% Simple Green solution- maybe stronger if there is years of crud. Avoid getting it on the paint. Wait about 10 minutes so the grease n oil starts to disolve. Then aggessively power spray, in a pattern to get it all clean. You may have to repeat, if the engine hasn't been cleaned before. Do not spray cold water when the engine is hot. PLEASE IGNOR all this advise if you want the utmost complete survivor status for the hard core NCRS guys. In that case, carefully save every speck of dirt, smear orf grease n dead bug as a tribute to your vettes' originality- and never drive it again. ( Just kidding, NCRS guys...really)
Cleaning is critical to judging because it is the finish that is being assessed and the extent to which it is original or reproduced. Over cleaning is detrimental to judging because it can remove, distort or diminish the original finish...so its a catch 22.
This past January in Orlando, we were judging I believe an 80 that had grime caked on the finish to the extent that the finish could not be judged...so the owner got gigged for finish (20% if you understand the five dimensions of NCRS originality) and than got gigged on cleaniness.
Others have covered it well but the least amount of abrasion the better...even a brush can get abrasive on a thirty year old paint finish. Plated finishes can survive a brush but paint that was thin to begin with may not have a lot of life left...than your looking at reproducing the original finish with wire looms, emission hoses, connectors, brackets, etc in place.
So when you spray a mild cleaner, brush than blast with high power water spray...well the original finish may not survive. And it may be at a point where it simply needs to be restored.
But the bottom line is that on the judging field, a judge wants to see the finish and not be distracted by grime resulting from neglect, aged with the years from fluid leaks, dust buildup, etc. Believe it or not...dust is acceptable.