Need Opinions.........





Buyers beware, he's taking the car to Branson, MO for an upcoming auction. If you see it look it over closely, can't be many there with this color combination. I would hate to see anyone get burned on this one.
I need some opinion on this. The owner has requested we get together again to discuss this car. He has told me he may have been a little "aggressive" on his pricing and some of the information he had from the PO may not have been correct. My concern is that the frame is bent based on some of the lines not matching up i.e. the t-tops and rear bumper, also the way it pulls to the left. Also, he is now stating that he has been told by the PO that the odometer had been non-functional for a period of time so I can't really rely on what he says on anything at this point.
I would really like a 78 silver anniversary 4 speed L82 and this car looks great from 2 feet, but as noted in my first post, has some issues. I could use some thoughts on the following;
How can I check the frame, should I take it to a frame shop or is there another way that I can do it?
Assuming there is a frame issue, should I walk or even run away from this one or can these be straightened?
What kind of money would a car with these flaws be worth if anything? It runs and shifts very well, other than wanting to cross the center line constatntly. Brakes are good, paint, although has visible sanding marks, has to be seen up very close to see the flaws. Interior is complete and everything is functional, I jusy don't like the fact that the entire interior has recently been dyed and would most likely need to remedy that.
Thanks in advance for your input. If he let's me take pictures this time I will post. I kind of annoyed him last time and he said no to pictures.
Last edited by Jon Hekking; Mar 27, 2008 at 11:48 AM.
What kind of ahole says you can't take pics?
Secondly, the seller is off his rocker. For that kind of money, everything should be in exemplary shape in my opinion. Not only should the frame be straight, but it should have very little indication of rust and I would expect that the entire suspension has been replaced with either new rubber or poly. The fact that the car pulls means that you either have a brake issue or the suspension rubber is shot and the alignment is suffering.
The interior re-dye is probably OK, but if it was done badly, you're looking at just as much work, maybe more to do it over again correctly.
I bought mine four years ago for $11,500 with 42K original miles (I was able to verify but only after the fact by calling the shop who worked on the car for 20yrs when I was going through receipts given to me). The car was freshly painted in 2000 so the paint was in very good shape. By the way, painting my SA back then cost $5K, so if you suspect a re-paint is in your future, definitely factor that in.
Honestly, I would find another SA, the SA combo was very popular that year (over 16K produced), so your only issue is finding one with an L-82 and a 4-speed. If you're going to seriously change the motor, an L-82 might not be that important. Definitely find a 4-speed though, vettes don't deserve automatics in my opinion.
If you look back again at this one, I would demand the following before I committed:
Car alignment is checked at a shop to determine if it is out and correctable. If it is, have the CO have it fixed prior sale.
Check the number of shims on the upper control arms. Ideally, I have read that you want to see an even number of shims which would indicate that the frame is even in the front (not a definite affirmation of frame straightness, but a quick check). Also, the vette frame tends to bow in after years of sprited use. When this happens, fewer shims are used on the uppers to compensate for the amount the frame has bowed. If you don't see any shims, or even see offset control arm mounts, I would be cautious as it could mean the frame has bent.
Take a look at the front crossmember, specifically where the lower control arms attach. The brackets used to mount the lowers is only spit welded to the crossmember and will also seperate under harsh conditions. Specifically, check where the mounts attach to the rear side of the crossmember, these also tend to seperate from the frame. Any issues here could throw the alignment out. Not major repairs, but it is an indication of how hard the car has been run.
Check the header bar bonding to the fiberglass right in front of the hood. Mine was seperating when I bought it. Again, not a major repair, but the first time you'll notice it is when the headlights nick the body and take of a piece of paint when they go up. If the headlights raise and lower with adequate clearance to the surrounding fiberglass, it's probabkly OK.
I'm sure there's more, but I'll just relay what I know about and let other experts chime in.
Hope you find one, I really like mine.
-Fred
I keep my own counsel, inspect the item,and assume they are mis representing it.I know it's cynical,but that way,when /if i find they were honest,it's refreshing,and if they were not,i'm covered because i used my own judgement and did'nt let their speech sway me.
An old adage ..."Caveat Emptor" Let the buyer beware,holds as true today as it was in centuries past.
My 2 cents...good luck





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I am amazed at how many of these "issues" are laid on the PO!
I had the same thing happen to me on a L-82 4 speed Pace Car in Charlotte - strongly mispresented. Turned around and flew back home.
"Run Forrest, Run"!










Some surface rust on the frame and suspension, suspect it has sat for a while. No deep rust on frame or birdcage. My mechanic pulled the pillar post trim and kick panels and looked before I could get there.
Last edited by Jon Hekking; Mar 27, 2008 at 03:41 PM.





When dying plastic or vinyl always clean the surface first, let dry, shoot it with flexible primer to create a better bond and then use the dye.










Then you'll hear some stories and claims that'll make your hair curl.

Run from this guy.
