What is the best way to jack my 1982 vette in the drivway so I can get under it to work.I use ramps for my other cars but the vette sits to low.Is that 4 by 6 square peice of metal at the very tip of the nose safe to put a sciser under?

 

I lift mine one side at a time with a med. duty floor jack and place it on jack stands if I want to take the wheels off. I made some wooden ramps (same style/design as Rhino Ramps only made from wood) last summer that I use for my Z06, which sits lower than the '82; turns out they worked well for the '82.

When jacking up the car remember to do so on a level srface and use wheel chocks on the rear wheels. I do this when I've got the car on the ramps as well. Jack the car up using the frame, forward of the point where the door and fender meet - basically at the side grill insert, then place a jack stand under the frame forward of this point at the bend in the frame...hope that makes sense.

Now's a good time as any to bring up the recuring urban myth; should you pop the T-tops and leave the doors slightly adjar so as to prevent damage from body flexing. My answer is yes and know what - I've never had a problem with broken tops. Maybe it's over kill but I live in the camp of "better safe than sorry".

 

Not if I'm doing it! Just buy 4 jack stands and work around the car a couple of times to get it high enough to do the work. It takes a bit more time to raise and lower, but it's a heckuva lot safer.

 

 

Are you saying to open doors and remove tops before lifting car or can you open/remove doors and tops after car sits on 4 stands

 

I have never seen this method suggested before, but I have been using it for many years. I use a scrap piece of pressure treated 4" X 4" about 33 inches long. With the cup removed from my 2 ton jack it fits under the post. Each end of the post goes just behind the sway bar bracket on the lower control arms and inside the lower shock. Lifting from this position the front end comes up without much wheel drop. Notice I have a piece of 2 X 4 between the corssmember and post. This is for safety incase the post breaks. I have used this same post for more than a hundred lifts. It has a few cracks along the length, but still lifts without a problem. I have supported the front as shown and also with the jack stands on either end of the post. For long projects I prefer having the stands under the lower control arms. Lifting the entire front end at one time is easier on the car, safer and easier on the mechanic IMO. I have never opened the doors or hood ever, when lifting either my 69 or 79. Lifting the front at once reduces frame flex where this is a problem, again IMO.
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I raise the back with the same jack, but place a rubber puck in the lifting cup. The puck is made from a boat trailer front bow guard. It is an hour glass shapped rubber bumper from which I cut off one of the ends that fit in the jack cup. After raising the car from beneith the differential housing, I place jack stands under the frame rails in front of the kickups. This is what works for me. Notice there is a portable phone in the picture. This reduces having to get up to answer the phone and is handy incase of an emergency.

 

The 80-82's are very difficult to get under, espically from the front. I have a very low craftman floor jack and I can't get under the front valance. I use ramps and have had no problems. If I need the wheels off the ground, I use jack stands...

Better safe that crushed like a bug!

Dave

 

Notice I do have a 78 type Pace Car spoiler on the front of my 79. The jack handle doesn't want to clear mine either. With the handle removed and the lift in its lowest position, push the jack under the car. Slide the handle end of the jack in front of the front tire and then push it under the car, it will clear the spoiler there. There is plenty of room under the car after the jack clears the spoiler. After the jack is under the car you position the post on top and move one end in position under the control arm and then the other. This method may not be for everyone, but I would never do it any other way again. It works like a poor mans Kwick lift. The front up first, then the back.

 

just like you said red 69---try one of these-

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...light=kwiklift

 

I have a very low-profile aluminum jack from Harbor Freight for the initial lift, then I use my big Michelin floor jack to raise it the rest of the way, side-to-side. Jack stands under all four corners.

The body isn't going to flex enough to damage the doors or t-tops unless your frame and/or birdcage are trashed anyway.

 

Thats what I do for my 80 and 02. I use metal ramps in front- with jack stands. Also jack stands in the back, placed on the frame in front of the rear wheels. Always do so on a level surface with wheel chocks... and I always pop the T-tops- but leave them on; and leave the 2 doors ajar. My frame is in excellent condition. but all vettes flex a little - or a lot.

 

Very, very little. My moonroof tops were latched down the last two times I had my 77 in the air, and there wasn't the slightest bit of movement. If the car is flexing enough to damage the doors or t-tops, it's a danger to public safety and should be repaired properly or parked (with the slight exception for utterly trashed rubber body mounts, which really should be fixed anyway).