Battery drain problem (continued) Need more help?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Battery drain problem (continued) Need more help?
So I hooked up my test light, it glowed and I started pulling fuses. Of course I ended up taking all the fuses out and it still glowed. I pulled the top plug on the alternator and it went out. I plugged the alternator line back in,disconnected the horn fuse- still glowed, disconnected the power window switches, still glowed. By the way, all of the radio, aux power from battery have been disconnected. Disconnected the ignition coil- still glowed. What is left to try? Points I guess but if the key is off? Starter? What is unfused that I should be looking at? Hazzard switch is off. Any help would be great and thanks, paul
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
From: Warren IL
Test lights are ok but you really should be hooking an amp meter in line to see just how big of a draw you are looking for.
How about giving a little bit of information on your car since you don't have it in your profile. What year and what kind of modifications have been done to it. It sure sounds like something that was added to the car.
I know its a pain but you may want to go to the starter and remove on wire at a time off the B+ terminal and chase the problem threw the car.
How about giving a little bit of information on your car since you don't have it in your profile. What year and what kind of modifications have been done to it. It sure sounds like something that was added to the car.
I know its a pain but you may want to go to the starter and remove on wire at a time off the B+ terminal and chase the problem threw the car.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
It is a 72, 4 speed,350. So if the light went out when I unplugged the alternator, it is a problem in the alternator itself? It has an closed circut in it? I thought there was a few other things- like the starter- that are unfused than run through the power from the alternator? Should I take the alternator out and have it tested? I believe it has a lifetime warrenty and is only about 1 year old. Thanks for the help, Paul
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Forgot to add that I did replace the stock non-tilt column with a later tilt /tele over the winter. I am suspicous that the problem may be in that somewhere because it is from a slighly later model (not sure what year but it did bolt right in and used my steering wheel). All the electical connections seem fine too.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
It is a 72, 4 speed,350. So if the light went out when I unplugged the alternator, it is a problem in the alternator itself? It has an closed circut in it? I thought there was a few other things- like the starter- that are unfused than run through the power from the alternator? Should I take the alternator out and have it tested? I believe it has a lifetime warrenty and is only about 1 year old. Thanks for the help, Paul
Yeah the alternator has a constant 12V source and is grounded to the engine. If it has an internal failure or short, it can drain the battery. You can have it tested but that may not reveal the draw. I would suggesting replacing it under the warranty, telling them it's shorted internally, and see if the test light comes on when you install and plug in the new alternator.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,359
Likes: 15
From: Confusion
Internal voltage regulator most likely. If you have the orig alternator casing, you can go to NAPA and get the internal parts you need to fix, don't get rid of the orig alternator!!!!
I had a 69 Nova that had the external regulator, and it did the opposite, it was overcharging and blowing the caps off the battery.......................B
I had a 69 Nova that had the external regulator, and it did the opposite, it was overcharging and blowing the caps off the battery.......................B
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
It continues. Took the alternator in and they tested it and it failed. Got the new one home and when I plugged it in, the test light still glowed. Next I guess I need to look at the wires at the starter? Since I replaced the steering column, I am wondering if the key switch may have a fault it in even though it was (supposedly) totally rebuilt. Any more ideas would be great but at least I know the alternator is ok. Paul
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 39
From: Denver, CO
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
this may be redundent (however thats spelled.. ) but did you have them check the new alternator to make sure it was good.. sometimes you buy rebuilt parts, and, well.. same story as the one your replacing. just a thought
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 924
Likes: 2
From: Kearneysville West Virginia
I have a similar problem with my 70 BB. Sometimes, when I shut my car off, there is a battery drain. If I unplug the alternator plug, the drain goes away. The alternator is fine. It appears to have something to do with turning the ignition switch on and off. Sometimes, if I turn the ignition switch on and off, the drain will go away. I have not had time to dive into it yet, so I put a battery cut off switch in for now. Again, the alternator is good, it is somehow associated with the ignition switch being turned on and off.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 924
Likes: 2
From: Kearneysville West Virginia
Additional info. As I recall, one of the two wires in the alternator connector is hot all the time, and the other is switched on or hot when the ignition is on. I recall that I found, when there was a drain, both wires in the alternator plug were hot. I am recalling this from memory as I looked at this briefly a few months ago. But, I am fairly certain this is right. It would appear in my case at least, that the one wire to the alternator that should be turned off when the ignition is off is not being turned off.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Here's what I did- I may be getting somewhere. I disconnected all the plugs to the steering column, plugged alternator in and it still glowed-- so not the key switch or steering column. Moved onto starter and disconnected the one red wire that is attached to the battery cable post, plugged the alternator back in and the light did not glow!! Obviously somewhere down the line this wire leading somewhere to close the circut and I guess it makes sense since it has power from the battery. I just hope this will help someone else down the road once I figure it out -- thanks a lot for all the help!! PAul
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Never mind the above-- that wire is the hot one that the post above was talking about that goes to the alternator. I guess I should take the alernator back to have them test it. Isn't the hot wire going back to the alternator going to be grounded when it is attached to the alternator thus closing the circut. I tested the voltage and it is about 9 volts which is more that some slow drain. Oh well gues I am my destiny is to get an automatic battery drain cut off unit!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,223
Likes: 4
From: Regina Saskatchewan
I have a slight battery drain too. Spent hours and hours trying to track it down. Finally just went out and got a quick battery disconnect. Takes 3 secs to disconnect or reconnect and the SOB that tries to steal my car will be slowed down a little or maybe stopped altogether ! Think it cost me all of $8.
That was 2 years ago and I noticed the battery drain wasn't there last year the odd time I didn't use the 'disconnect'
That was 2 years ago and I noticed the battery drain wasn't there last year the odd time I didn't use the 'disconnect'
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Last post on this from me-- promise! I figured it out. It was my ammeter gauge. I thought that the only other thing that the alternator runs through besides the starter is the gauge. Disconnected the gauge and the light went out. There is no fuse to that gauge so pulling the fuses doesn't find it. My old gauge didn't work so I replaced it. I didn't have a drain before because the old gauge was broken and did not close the loop. I am pretty sure I hooked it up the right way but maybe the new one ended up being grounded ?? Anyhow, anyone with a battery drain may want to disconnect there ammeter gauge and see if that corrects it. For now that fixes the problem for me! thanks again to all, Paul
