SOB`en Wiper Door,
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
SOB`en Wiper Door,
Briefly, problems with the wiper door. I cant get the sucker to move and dont really want to force to hard and 'f... up' everything. . Vacuum is out of the picture, they wont even begin to move. I took the can off and tried to press the rod in, nothing. Solid as a rock. I took the grill off and I see a rod stretching to both sides and cant get that to move either. . Without the vacuum should one be able to move the door manually. Another question Where can this assembly be lubed?
Also is the wiper switch fused? With the wiper door open should I be able to move the dash switch to on position and the wipers begin to move or cycle? The limit switch near the distributor, with the door open is the limit switch at its rest, meaning in as far as it could go?
A lot of questions, all of which I dont have a 'f`en' clue.
seems like the correct or appropiate adjective for this issue..
Also is the wiper switch fused? With the wiper door open should I be able to move the dash switch to on position and the wipers begin to move or cycle? The limit switch near the distributor, with the door open is the limit switch at its rest, meaning in as far as it could go?
A lot of questions, all of which I dont have a 'f`en' clue.
seems like the correct or appropiate adjective for this issue..
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,640
Likes: 287
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
answers
Without the vacuum should one be able to move the door manually. YES, you should be able to manually pull it open and close.
Another question Where can this assembly be lubed? Sounds like the whole thing needs to come apart for a cleanup and lube job.
Also is the wiper switch fused? Yes, wiper is fused. With the wiper door open should I be able to move the dash switch to on position and the wipers begin to move or cycle? Wipers won't move until the door is open which is controlled by the switch you mention below.The limit switch near the distributor, with the door open is the limit switch at its rest, meaning in as far as it could go?
A lot of questions, all of which I dont have a 'f`en' clue.
seems like the correct or appropiate adjective for this issue..
Another question Where can this assembly be lubed? Sounds like the whole thing needs to come apart for a cleanup and lube job.
Also is the wiper switch fused? Yes, wiper is fused. With the wiper door open should I be able to move the dash switch to on position and the wipers begin to move or cycle? Wipers won't move until the door is open which is controlled by the switch you mention below.The limit switch near the distributor, with the door open is the limit switch at its rest, meaning in as far as it could go?
A lot of questions, all of which I dont have a 'f`en' clue.
seems like the correct or appropiate adjective for this issue..
Here's a little more info that might help you.http://lbfun.com/Corvette/Tech/vette...m%20System.pdf
http://www.vettevacuum.com/troubleshooting_guide.htm
Last edited by Duke94; Mar 31, 2008 at 07:52 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,429
Likes: 20
From: Kingston Ontario
I just installed my bead blasted linkage. I thought it would be a bitch to get going because of years being idle and the sand from blasting. I bolted it in properly and lubed up every joints I could find with WD40 and viola....it works amazing. I would start by taking the door off, hopefully you won't break the bolts. Start by wire brushing the joints so you can get good penetration with the lube you use. Don't forget the joints in the middle, there's a couple of them. Unbolt the canister from the firewall bracket and unscrew it from the actuator hex rod. Screw a 5/16-18 bolt about 3 inches long into the hex rod. Now you have a good grip on where it actuates from. After lubing it , let it sit for a while and come back and try it. Keep doing that until it loosens up. Thats all I did. Mine works awesome.
Last edited by BB72; Mar 31, 2008 at 08:26 PM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
Thanks to both of you, i`ll pull the door tomorrow, it has new attaching or mounting hardware recently installed removing the broken special bolt syndrome. I just didn`t want to remove more than was necessary.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
Spray every joint you can reach with PB Blaster and start trying to work the actuator rod back and forth. It may take a few days' worth of spraying but the PB will eventually eat through any corrosion. Once you can move the door a little bit you can be confident that the PB will eventually free things up. I should own stock in the company - I don't know how many cans of that stuff I have used on the 79 and 72. Unless something is so badly rusted that the parts are fused together PB will loosen up anything. There is something called Kroil that is supposed to be even better but PB is available at almost any auto parts store.
Rick B.
Rick B.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
Well I got the door off and then unbolted the linkage from the sides and at the vacuum can. Total of 6. Removed it and found shims laying there. Not sure of there usage, but i`ll put them back on reassembly of the linkage. It`s really tight all through the 3 movements. That 'blaster' stuff is not faring very well with this rack. I keep squirting and moving the parts trying to loosen them up. Currently way too much resistance for vacuum.
Tried to get the wipers to work and all I get is a click from the wiper motor. Shouldn't`t you be able to cycle the blades without the door on?
Tried to get the wipers to work and all I get is a click from the wiper motor. Shouldn't`t you be able to cycle the blades without the door on?
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Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
Well I got the door off and then unbolted the linkage from the sides and at the vacuum can. Total of 6. Removed it and found shims laying there. Not sure of there usage, but i`ll put them back on reassembly of the linkage. It`s really tight all through the 3 movements. That 'blaster' stuff is not faring very well with this rack. I keep squirting and moving the parts trying to loosen them up. Currently way too much resistance for vacuum.
Tried to get the wipers to work and all I get is a click from the wiper motor. Shouldn't`t you be able to cycle the blades without the door on?
Tried to get the wipers to work and all I get is a click from the wiper motor. Shouldn't`t you be able to cycle the blades without the door on?
Rick B.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
There wasn`t any electrical in the wiper compartment that was visable and I looked it over very close. I didn`t want to scratch the new paint.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,447
Likes: 3
From: Syracuse NY
All right, I just knew that was way too easy today. Where is this switch I need to remember that needs to be closed? I have a 1968 Dealer repair manual and I dont recall any switch location in neither the book or the car. It would sure make my day for those wipers to start to do what there supposed to do, namely wiping, There wasn`t any electrical in the wiper compartment that was visable and I looked it over very close. I didn`t want to scratch the new paint.
There wasn`t any electrical in the wiper compartment that was visable and I looked it over very close. I didn`t want to scratch the new paint.
Here's a closer shot.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 589
Likes: 0
I sprayed mine with carb cleaner then tapped it with a small hammer til it loosened up. Then lube then carb cleaner then lube.. Got it moving pretty quickly.
I took the canister off and did pretty much the same thing. Carb cleaner down both ends and started tapping it. Lube carb cleaner ect..
Got it moving pretty smoothly. You can use an air gun to check it. Should move with not too much pressure.. From both sides.
Make sure you get all of the fluid out of the canister before hooking it to the car.. Can contaminate the vac system.
I took the canister off and did pretty much the same thing. Carb cleaner down both ends and started tapping it. Lube carb cleaner ect..
Got it moving pretty smoothly. You can use an air gun to check it. Should move with not too much pressure.. From both sides.
Make sure you get all of the fluid out of the canister before hooking it to the car.. Can contaminate the vac system.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
Well I found that limit switch, right where the picture shows. I turned the key on and then the wiper switch on the dash. Came around to the switch and pushed it. The motor came to life after 35 years and cycled almost perfect and then it parked by turning the switch on the dash to off. The rack is finally beginning to give up and becoming more compatible and working better. Still a ways to go however.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
For those of you that has contributed to my subject of the "SOB`en wiper door", well heres the junk i`m playing with.... Dormant for 35 years
http://s238.photobucket.com/albums/f...ellowvette.flv
http://s238.photobucket.com/albums/f...ellowvette.flv
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,043
Likes: 4
From: Va
For those of you that has contributed to my subject of the "SOB`en wiper door", well heres the junk i`m playing with.... Dormant for 35 years
http://s238.photobucket.com/albums/f...ellowvette.flv
http://s238.photobucket.com/albums/f...ellowvette.flv
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,810
Likes: 0
From: NJ
