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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 09:54 AM
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Default Rear rotors

Why are the rotors riveted on the rear?
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by BritewhiteC3
Why are the rotors riveted on the rear?
Had something to do with the order in which parts were assembled at the factory. It made assembly easier. Nothing to do with function or performance, though if you read Gary's paper on adjusting runout, he does suggest bolting them on. Perhaps the factory had the right idea though I don't believe that they added shims.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 10:28 AM
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Thanks for the reply. Removing the Trailing Arms I discovered the PO drilled the drivers side and reinstalled without rivets. Never noticed any problems. Passenger side was never touched. Luckily both TA's came off smoothly.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 12:15 PM
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Rotors are riveted all around, I drilled them out when replacing rotors.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 12:23 PM
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They were riveted together to permit final machining of the rotor face for elimination of runout as an assembly . Also helped with manipulation and installation of the components on the trailing arm.

Once these tasks were completed, the rivets became redundant.

Modern cars have the spindle and rotor machined independantly which avoids the drawback of having to maintain a matched set like on C2 and C3 Corvettes.

Many people make the mistake of scrapping the old rotor, installing a new one and not measuring or correcting the newly created runout problem.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by BritewhiteC3
Why are the rotors riveted on the rear?
They were originally riveted on the front, too. Two reasons - machining the rotor faces to reduce runout and for ease of assembly.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
They were riveted together to permit final machining of the rotor face for elimination of runout as an assembly . Also helped with manipulation and installation of the components on the trailing arm.

Once these tasks were completed, the rivets became redundant.

Modern cars have the spindle and rotor machined independantly which avoids the drawback of having to maintain a matched set like on C2 and C3 Corvettes.

Many people make the mistake of scrapping the old rotor, installing a new one and not measuring or correcting the newly created runout problem.
Perfect explanation of the c2-c3 brake system. If I may add these cars get a bad rap on the brakes. New vettes stopped on a dime and you would have to remove your teeth from the dash pad.
Over time as the car was used the time came for brake service and this is where the hacks took control and made the brakes worse and the owner much poorer without fixing the problem. Many garages, dealers, even vette shops never took the time to correct bearing endplay or rotor runout, instead throwing parts at the problem.
I set runout to under 002 and bearing endplay to 0015-002- I never use O rings, DOT 5 BF, or anything other then shims to dial in the runout and have brakes that work on all my vettes and those I work on.
If you store the car over the winter buy a Motive bleeder and bleed the brakes when you take the car out of storage. You'll have great brakes and will put that extra $700-$1000 in your pocket- or gas tank!
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 11:51 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I had to replace one of my rear rotors, worn to much to turn. The new rotor does not have rivet holes. Should I be concerned ?
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 11:07 AM
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I don't want to steal the thread but what is runout and where can I find Gary's paper?
Thanks!!
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