ripping out audio system
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,692
Likes: 157
From: Miami, FL
Well I tried the radio with both the old speakers and one of the high powered pairs wired in series. Neither sounded any good. Maybe my radio is toast. What are my options for repairing it?
Can anyone tell me where the heat sink is mounted? There are a couple hoses up to the right below the right speaker that seem to line up... is that it?
Can anyone tell me where the heat sink is mounted? There are a couple hoses up to the right below the right speaker that seem to line up... is that it?
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,117
From: Crossville TN
If it is a stereo model, the heat sink is behind the passenger dash pad mounted to the upper bulkhead. I believe the mono is mounted behind the gauge cluster...but might be moved to the right side if you have A/C. Heck....my AIM is in storage and I can't look it up to be sure....
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
I'd get a decent set of 4x6 speakers that can run from a stock head unit's output rather than using 40 year old paper-cone Delcos that weren't all that great then.
If you want to sell that a/d/s stuff, I might be interested. I'm getting a new DD this weekend, and I think it still has the stock stereo...
If you want to sell that a/d/s stuff, I might be interested. I'm getting a new DD this weekend, and I think it still has the stock stereo...
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,117
From: Crossville TN
If you buy replacement dash speakers (with I highly recommend), get 4x6" speakers which also have tweeter domes. Also suggest that you buy ones with plastic frames (rather than metal); the Corvette speaker holder bolt pattern is unusual and you can use a pen-type soldering iron to put additional holes in the plastic frame to mount them using the same dash hardware. If you get metal frames, you will probably have to drill some new new holes and risk damaging the speaker.
If you have a mono radio, all the speakers in the system have to produce 8-10 ohm impedence; if stereo, each side needs to produce 8-10 ohm impedence. [Note: You can use higher impedence, but it will reduce max volume; lower impedence can overload the amp system.]
If you have a mono radio, all the speakers in the system have to produce 8-10 ohm impedence; if stereo, each side needs to produce 8-10 ohm impedence. [Note: You can use higher impedence, but it will reduce max volume; lower impedence can overload the amp system.]
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,692
Likes: 157
From: Miami, FL
Thanks for all the good info...
Now I'm wondering if anyone out there replaces the electronics in the stock radio box using the same face. The goal being to look like the original but sound more like a modern unit - not a good one, but updated. That might be a great product/service. I would be very interested if that was an option.
Now I'm wondering if anyone out there replaces the electronics in the stock radio box using the same face. The goal being to look like the original but sound more like a modern unit - not a good one, but updated. That might be a great product/service. I would be very interested if that was an option.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,317
Likes: 22
From: Marina CA
Where did you get the ABS kick plate speaker panels? Do you know if they're available for 68's that have the air vents in the forward part of the kick panel?
Racer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
From: ********** New York
1st the ADS stuff you pulled out you can probably still get $500 for. That amp and crossover back in the day was easy $850 and the ads plates were 650 I used those before the sound nicer than the Boston Acoustic pro series. As for the ohms on the front dont worry use the passive X-over you have with a 4ohm input. I would use that ADS amp to power them.
To stop your static and noise problem is easy it could be several things so I'll give you a quick run down.
1- run a new ground from batt to chassie and well as a 12- to the block
2- use the ground on the MC rca's
3- if youhave a high energy coil you can use a led wrap on the radio cheap and easy
4- your static problem is common to vettes usally 1 of 3 reasons
4a- need a new antenna
4b- Ground the base of the ant.. to the chassic
4c- head unit is shot
If you need a set of passivex-over I have a set of polks leftover from a componet set I use a electronic set up on LMK
To stop your static and noise problem is easy it could be several things so I'll give you a quick run down.
1- run a new ground from batt to chassie and well as a 12- to the block
2- use the ground on the MC rca's
3- if youhave a high energy coil you can use a led wrap on the radio cheap and easy
4- your static problem is common to vettes usally 1 of 3 reasons
4a- need a new antenna
4b- Ground the base of the ant.. to the chassic
4c- head unit is shot
If you need a set of passivex-over I have a set of polks leftover from a componet set I use a electronic set up on LMK
Last edited by BB427; May 30, 2008 at 04:57 PM.
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Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
They are custom fiberglass, bondo, and paint. They would have to be made using your kick panels, to fit your car. I have since repaired them but I over-trimmed the ones in the pics.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,317
Likes: 22
From: Marina CA
I should have known this was another of your creative and clever projects! Here I thought I could run down to the local car stereo shop and find them on the shelf. Very nice job indeed, but the gears are turning. Thanks Matt.
Racer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
From: ********** New York
It is not a hard project to make I get a few hundred $$ in my shop to make them just cause the stench of the fiberglass and god forbid you get it on your skin you need brillo and kerosine to get it off.
If you would like I can make a set for my 69 and post pics step by step .they will cost you about $100 and 4-6 hours with all the materials from wood frame to the gel coat.
PM me if you are interested in the making them and I'll post the pics
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,317
Likes: 22
From: Marina CA
It is not a hard project to make I get a few hundred $$ in my shop to make them just cause the stench of the fiberglass and god forbid you get it on your skin you need brillo and kerosine to get it off.
If you would like I can make a set for my 69 and post pics step by step .they will cost you about $100 and 4-6 hours with all the materials from wood frame to the gel coat.
PM me if you are interested in the making them and I'll post the pics
If you would like I can make a set for my 69 and post pics step by step .they will cost you about $100 and 4-6 hours with all the materials from wood frame to the gel coat.
PM me if you are interested in the making them and I'll post the pics
Thanks for the offer of the photos.
Racer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 421
Likes: 0
From: Mooresville NC
It was good stuff back in the day. But very outdated by todays standards. Usually much of the noise comes from when the power wire from the batt is ran on the same side of the car as the rca and remote wires. I have fixed a many cars that have that problem. But there are many other reasons that could cause the problem. Have fun working on it
Racer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
From: ********** New York
It was good stuff back in the day. But very outdated by todays standards. Usually much of the noise comes from when the power wire from the batt is ran on the same side of the car as the rca and remote wires. I have fixed a many cars that have that problem. But there are many other reasons that could cause the problem. Have fun working on it
Racer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 421
Likes: 0
From: Mooresville NC
Correct I do the same as I own a Car Audio shop. However if you look at the pictures he posted the power comes from the battery around the back and out the light area . and the RCA are ran up the passanger side from the pics. The RCA are monster cable not those BS PIE thin shield rca's
LOL