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Who has a detailed schematics build up of the '72 AC system. I remember Doc rebuild but those stupid safe image apps doesn't show anything. The heater core doesn't fit in the heater box any more:-(.
I just did mine this weekend and the first and most important thing to do is get good seals, under the hood around the venting and anything under the dash.
Once you have done all the seals and cleaned and ensured you are airtight you will be amazed at how much better off you are.
Mine had no pressure or cool even after a complete rebuild,,,,,but when I took everything apart and used new seals and ensured I wasn't wasting the breeze it worked great!
I agree, the seals, or lack of is the biggest problem.
What year is your car? The 80 - 82 (maybe late 79s) shared a lot of componets with other GM lines - Caddy, Buick. These systems were designed to cool much larger cabins so they can work great in the 80 - 82s if properly sealed. One downside is the glass tops and fast back glass causing a lot of heat build up.
My '82 has a new compressor and accumulator as it was converted to R134 several years ago. It works great at hwy speeds but in slow - go traffic it can't really keep up on hot, sunny days.
The system has a sloooooow leak. I have to charge it once in the early summer and it cools great all summer long. Note to self - need to charge that A/C!
Thanks guys. The AC was Missing from my '72, I have collected most parts from flebay. I have a seal set from one of the major parts vendors (think it was ecklers). Now I'm cleaning of all old seal and painting all parts. I'm thinking of buying one of those freon update kits new smaller Compressor, o-rings and dryer, not the full kit. For the full kit I have to pay way to much for shipping.
If your building it from scratch I would either go with a new system from Custom Air or build it myself. You need to go R134A so a paralell flow condensor up front, about 150 new, 25 from the graveyard.
Sanden or R4 compressor, $100 to $350
Custom hoses annother $150 or so
Evaporator still there? It will work fine, use new style drier and orifice tube.
I agree, if you're going aftermarket then go hotrod air, it rocks!
Only reason I ran what I have is because its stock and I'm trying withing reason to stay true to my gal.
Just had a brilliant idea!!
Do you guys know Polyolefin heat shrinkable tubing? Mostly used to seal electrical connections. That stuff can be bought in 2' 3' 4' diameter tubes. That is what I am going to use to seal off the AC tubing connections to the vent tubing.
WHOA there hoss! Try doing something that can be reversed should you ever want to put the car back original for sale or otherwise. A golf tee works darn good, or as we Texans call them,,,,big mesquite thorns!
The ducts were originally sealed with sticky backed foam tape. Back then the stuff died after a couple of years. That shrink tubing Might work, as long as you can take it apart if need be. But I think I would go back in with the foam tape, simple, cheap and pretty reliable.
Be aware that EVERY vette I have seen there is a gap between the lower heat box and the upper dash vent, mine was about an inch. You can close that up with Duct Tape, the metal kind they use to actually make ducts with.
One of the big items is to make sure all the components work as they should: all the ducts seal, all the doors and plappers work, vac switches don't leak etc.
You can get a seal kit for the vent door, I just did mine, worked great.
- at that mileage USA cars would simply wear out - that's why Japan cars became popular as they lasted longer -
Ok, wait...are we talking about the same Japanese cars? As I recall, with 60,000 miles there were hardly any fenders left on a Japanese car because of rust.
And that was about the time the engine needed pulling to replace the timing belt and while it's out, the water pump. A $1,500 job.
Let's not wax nostalgic about some of the worst cars ever made. Granted they did become great little cars but not until the 80's which also happens to be a very dark period for the US auto industry.
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