engine install
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 495
Likes: 1
From: Lubbock TX
engine install
year one crate motors coming in monday. i have a few questions about the install. never done this before
and i dont wanna jack something up.
1) torque converter is off, is it easier to bolt it to the flywheel and install or put it on the tranny first? and do i fill that with auto fluid first or just fill the transmission after wards and let it fill up?
2) Ive seen many things about timing a new engine. my carb ran well enough for the stock engine...should i start there or set up before i putit on the engine. as for timing..im not well educated here, im gonna try and get someone to help, but can i start the engine for short periods of time since its already been dynoed?
3) last question i think: what oil do i use and what is the remainder of the breakin procedure...ive heard a couple tanks of gas while trying to keep the rpms from staying at one point, but not hard on the gas.
thanks for the help...ill get some pics on here to see what you guys think.
Sean
and i dont wanna jack something up.1) torque converter is off, is it easier to bolt it to the flywheel and install or put it on the tranny first? and do i fill that with auto fluid first or just fill the transmission after wards and let it fill up?
2) Ive seen many things about timing a new engine. my carb ran well enough for the stock engine...should i start there or set up before i putit on the engine. as for timing..im not well educated here, im gonna try and get someone to help, but can i start the engine for short periods of time since its already been dynoed?
3) last question i think: what oil do i use and what is the remainder of the breakin procedure...ive heard a couple tanks of gas while trying to keep the rpms from staying at one point, but not hard on the gas.
thanks for the help...ill get some pics on here to see what you guys think.
Sean
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,422
Likes: 591
From: McHenry Illinois
1, do not bolt the t/c to the engine first. Install it into the trans and make sure it is seated all the way, then bolt the trans to the engine. NEVER pull the engine and trans to gether with the bolts, they should go together easily and the t/c should still free spin until it's bolted the the flex-plate. If the converter is new or ahas been drained, pour at least a quart of fluid into it before putting it into the trans.
2 & 3 I'll leave for others to answer.
2 & 3 I'll leave for others to answer.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
From: Streator Illinois
1, do not bolt the t/c to the engine first. Install it into the trans and make sure it is seated all the way, then bolt the trans to the engine. NEVER pull the engine and trans to gether with the bolts, they should go together easily and the t/c should still free spin until it's bolted the the flex-plate. If the converter is new or ahas been drained, pour at least a quart of fluid into it before putting it into the trans.
2 & 3 I'll leave for others to answer.
2 & 3 I'll leave for others to answer.
I usually put a little locktite on the TC to flexplate bolts (A/t's do not have flywheels). Not a bad idea to use new good quality bolts too.
I'm a little confused about your question about timing and your carb. The two are not really related so I'll follow AKT's lead and let someone else try to answer.
For break-in, fill the oil flter before installing. You can use a lighter oil like 5W30 for break-in and run about 500 miles and change oil AND filter. You are correct about not running a constant rpm during break-in and do not achieve (or at least maintain) high rpm's. It's ok to do some moderate accelerations to a reasonable rpm in order to exercise things a little. If your crate motor comes with break-in instruction, read and follow them cafefully. Good luck with the install.
Terry
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 495
Likes: 1
From: Lubbock TX
thanks for the info.
is there a certain type of oil to use (brand?).
ill try and rephrase my second question. is it alright to start the engine and set the timing and stop the engine a few times. or do i need to start it, tune it all at once? if the timing is off and it runs rough is it going to hurt anything until i can get it right?
not sure if that makes much sense either.
thanks for the input.
Sean
is there a certain type of oil to use (brand?).
ill try and rephrase my second question. is it alright to start the engine and set the timing and stop the engine a few times. or do i need to start it, tune it all at once? if the timing is off and it runs rough is it going to hurt anything until i can get it right?
not sure if that makes much sense either.
thanks for the input.
Sean
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,044
Likes: 0
From: Henrico VA
I used Castrol Synthetic for my break-in. I varied the rpm for half an hour. After that, I drove the car for 1,000 miles just to be safe. Then I went to Royal Purple. There is research out there that proves that Royal Purple engine oil really is better. Go synthetic all the way.
-Me
-Me
Instructor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
As previosly staited, I would read the info that comes with the engine, or call the supplier. Do you know if this engine has a roller cam or a flat tappet cam? Brake in varies. Don't run engine to long if your timing is set incorrectly,meaning wear you can not adjust it while engine is running.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
From: Streator Illinois
thanks for the info.
ill try and rephrase my second question. is it alright to start the engine and set the timing and stop the engine a few times. or do i need to start it, tune it all at once? if the timing is off and it runs rough is it going to hurt anything until i can get it right?Sean
ill try and rephrase my second question. is it alright to start the engine and set the timing and stop the engine a few times. or do i need to start it, tune it all at once? if the timing is off and it runs rough is it going to hurt anything until i can get it right?Sean
If the engine has been test run prior to shipment, hopefully the cam has been broken in; if not, breakin procedure is to run for 20-30 minutes at between 2000-2200 rpm and varying the rpm during the break-in. Keep a special close watch on coolant temp and oil pressure the first few runs.
You can tell if the engine has been run by inspecting the inside of one or both valve covers. If dry, you should really pull the distributor and use a special oil primer (free loan from Auto Zone and maybe other parts stores) to prelube the engine. Second best would be to remove the sparkplugs and crank the engine in short bursts until oil begins to come out of the uper pushrod/rocker arm area.
Terry
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 2
From: Oak Ridge NC
Did I read this right? Your engine has already been dynoed? It has the dizzy and carb on it? If it was dynoed, it was broken in on the dyno., timing set and carb dialed in. If so, you're good to go.
Am I missing something?
Am I missing something?
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 495
Likes: 1
From: Lubbock TX
its the 350 from year one... it states that the engine has been dynoed and will come with the dyno sheets. it does not come complete, here is the link for the engine.
year one
ill see what the sheets say when it comes in tomorrow.
thanks for the help so far.
year one
ill see what the sheets say when it comes in tomorrow.
thanks for the help so far.