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I'm thinking about saving some cash and going with the 250 HP goodwrench engine to get my car on the road where I can enjoy it sooner rather than later, given budget constraints, and other mods that would be necessary with a higher HP application. I am also coming to realize that I'm not going to make my '81 to a C6 beater on the strip, so having a car that I can enjoy that looks nice, drives well and can get out of its own way will be more satisfying than going after ever more horsepower.
It is certainly not as if I would not be able to do that in the future with this engine.
Just wanted to get some thoughts from across the spectrum. I know some guys are perfectly happy with a clean 165 HP stock car, while other guys are running 9's and want to go faster. I guess I'm somewhere in the middle.
Best case scenario, a perfect condition #’s matching ’81 can’t be that great of an investment anyway. Putting aside the fact that I would have to put a $15K paint job on the thing to get it in to a condition where I could maybe sell it for $20K down the road, and the whole “keep it original” argument just doesn’t resonate with me and my plans for the car. I had always planned to mod the car somewhat, and do what I could to make it easy to work on, fun to drive, and reliable. The stuff that came stock on an ’81 (wacky CCC, smogged up low compression engine) pretty much precludes that from happening anyway.
I’d consider going all original if I had a 73 or earlier, but I didn’t have the funds to buy one of those in the first place, much less do the resto. So suffice it to say that I am not having any heartburn about not having matching #’s.
I’d consider going all original if I had a 73 or earlier, but I didn’t have the funds to buy one of those in the first place, much less do the resto. So suffice it to say that I am not having any heartburn about not having matching #’s.
I agree with you. I can appreciate original low mileage cars but I wouldn't want to own one. If there were classic Corvettes specifically made for modding, the '74-'82s definitely fit the mold.
...I've had that GM Direct Replacement '73-'85 260hp 4 Bolt Main 350ci motor in my '75 for over 3 years and 27,000mi and it hasn't skipped a beat yet. Has a 5yr/50,000mi warranty on it. Got it off the Internet at a GM Dealer Engine Sale for $1187(+$100 no trade in, kept my original L-82). I'm more of just a "cruiser", but in my '75 with a 4spd & 3:36 gears, this motor is perfect for what I use it for. It gets up and goes pretty well for what it is. I realized I could've went with more HP, but I don't need it.
...I've had that GM Direct Replacement '73-'85 260hp 4 Bolt Main 350ci motor in my '75 for over 3 years and 27,000mi and it hasn't skipped a beat yet. Has a 5yr/50,000mi warranty on it. Got it off the Internet at a GM Dealer Engine Sale for $1187(+$100 no trade in, kept my original L-82). I'm more of just a "cruiser", but in my '75 with a 4spd & 3:36 gears, this motor is perfect for what I use it for. It gets up and goes pretty well for what it is. I realized I could've went with more HP, but I don't need it.
That's where I'm headed as well. I must be mellowing out and losing my boy racer aspirations.
I saw a decent looking 78 or 79 cruising down the freeway on the way in to work this morning, and thought, "that should be me".
I had the 250 Goodwrench in mine when I bought it and personally I'd go for a more spicy version. Modifying it afterwards is a lot more expensive. After all 250hp with an auto tranny is only about 180 rwhp, which isn't really a lot for a heavy car like ours. Just my 2 cts.
I used that engine in my 69 when it was DD. Ran without a problem, had good power for my use, ran a Q-jet, iron manifolds 2" pipes, and an old edelbrock intake. It started up everyday, never used oil, never ran hot, ran on 87-89 octane, and with the M-20 & 336's got 18-19 MPG @65mph.
We took it and put it in my son's 75 with new heads and cam still no oil usage and has much more power.
If you're just driving around, no racing it's fine.
Can't your stock engine be rebuilt? Put a little bigger cam in it, add some low-dollar iron heads, and upgrade your exhaust system. (The stock exhaust coupled with the 250hp crate engine will not yield 250hp, either.)
From: THE OLDER I GET THE BETTER I WAS! NORTHERN ONTARIO
I did that in the early 80's I think they were called target masters then...anyway I had a ton of fun with it & it still sits in one of my 69 Chevelles till this day!
Can't your stock engine be rebuilt? Put a little bigger cam in it, add some low-dollar iron heads, and upgrade your exhaust system. (The stock exhaust coupled with the 250hp crate engine will not yield 250hp, either.)
From everything that I have gathered, that would actually cost close to the same, if not more money. But, with a cam and flat top pistons, I'm pretty sure that I would be over the 250 HP, but it's more of the convenience factor that is pushing me to the crate.
the 260 is the same as the ~200 stock in the car.
Consider the lowest price Vortec, 330 HP 12486041
CC tested at 348hp.
I'd love it, but the extra $1000 on that engine is pushing me down the product list. That extra cost could mean another year before I am able to get the car on the road.
Best case scenario, a perfect condition #’s matching ’81 can’t be that great of an investment anyway. Putting aside the fact that I would have to put a $15K paint job on the thing to get it in to a condition where I could maybe sell it for $20K down the road, and the whole “keep it original” argument just doesn’t resonate with me and my plans for the car. I had always planned to mod the car somewhat, and do what I could to make it easy to work on, fun to drive, and reliable. The stuff that came stock on an ’81 (wacky CCC, smogged up low compression engine) pretty much precludes that from happening anyway.
I’d consider going all original if I had a 73 or earlier, but I didn’t have the funds to buy one of those in the first place, much less do the resto. So suffice it to say that I am not having any heartburn about not having matching #’s.
Trust me when I tell you to get 20k out of an 81 it must be perfect and I mean perfect ,so since you have the original engine save it, don't take the chance of some one to deck the block removing the numbers, Pull it and save, buy a crate and have fun with car when it becomes a really collectable car. You will have the original block in great condition ready to go with the car. I say do what you want but I would always keep the numbers matching block near by.
Trust me when I tell you to get 20k out of an 81 it must be perfect and I mean perfect ,so since you have the original engine save it, don't take the chance of some one to deck the block removing the numbers, Pull it and save, buy a crate and have fun with car when it becomes a really collectable car. You will have the original block in great condition ready to go with the car. I say do what you want but I would always keep the numbers matching block near by.
The $20K was my "best case scenario" guess for an absolute perfect example. I know that I would spend more than that to get it to that condition, so my car is just not investment worthy, and I'm cool with that.
I'll hang on to the block, in the event that someone down the road wants to give it a try, but I'm in this one to have fun and have a decent looking driver.
and if you really dont care about numbers matching chit
deck the block so you get off that 8:5:1 compression
that and good headers will get you over 300hp
Once I get it operational, the plan is, in 5 years or so, to do heads/cam. I'll be going with some headers with whatever engine that I end up with. The PO put a set of headers on it that are rusting badly, so that is on the list of "must fix".
The "rebuild" suggestion was intended to help you keep the value up on your car. If you throw a $2000 crate engine in the car, the car will be worth exactly what it is with a 'bad' original engine. If you rebuild the original engine, you may spend $2000, but the value of the car increases by about that same amount. I doubt that a cam, iron heads, bearings, gaskets, etc. will cost you the $2K, but even if it does, you're ahead.
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