Im thinking about replaceing my windshield frame. Mostly the top and two top corners. Id like to leave the sides inplace to keep alignment even though they are rusted a little. Any pointers and how do you get it realligned again?

 

ttt

 

Hi
I had a fabrication shop in Gasoline Ally replace a windshield frame just above the VIN tag. He used an angle finder to get the original angle and then welded the new one in accordingly. Now I also should tell you that I've yet to put a windshield in so I really don't know how accurate he was.
Ol Blue

 

Let me know how that turns out. Im going to try using a cardboard template in the t-top opening and support everything with braces as much as possible. I think if I cut in a tight template the way it is now it should go back in after the new section is installed. Im not going to start that yet, have lots more to do too.

 

If you're looking for a replacement frame, I have one for sale.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2045540

Dave

 

Thank you but I think Im going to install a new top section and two new top corners.

 

Dave

 

Best bet is to find a frame off a donor car - new pieces cost a lot more and won't be much better. Before you start though, pull the kick panels and look at the posts that go from the frame up to the windshield. If those are gone, you're wasting your time just fixing the frame.

If the posts are OK then cut off only the amount you absolutely have to, but first you need to carefully measure several points so that you can accurately locate the replacement. When you make the measurements, scribe a mark on each end of your measurement because you will be wanting to duplicate the exact measurements on your new frame. On your new frame, you'll want to scribe marks in the same places. It's not necessary to cut the windshield frame legs at the same point - in other words, if the driver side needs to be replaced at the VIN tag and the passenger side is OK to the outside corner, then leave the passenger side let on. Cut out only what you have to.

For example, measure the distance from the base of the dash up to the corners, from the corners to a place somewhere back on the t-bar. Just measure everything twice and write the measurements down, draw a picture so you can pinpoint later where all those measurements were made because you'll be duplicating them later.

When cutting your new frame, be sure to take into account the material that will be lost when you cut it. I'd also advise cutting it long because it will be tricky duplicating the angles of the cut, so leave some extra material that you can grind off to get a good fit. Pick a surface, like the side the VIN tag is on and try to make your cuts perpendicular to that on the original and the replacement.

It's not that difficult, but your preparation will pay dividends. Take your time and you'll be fine.

 

Thanks for your help. Ill be doing alot of measuring before I start this job. It looks like the bottom of my posts are ok. Its just the top corners and the top cross bar. I was hoping to drill out the spot welds at the top corners and go from there. Again, thanks.

 

I did this one. Got a donor windshield frame and welded it in from just above the VIN tag (and same area on pass side). Donor is way better that buying replacement pieces.

 

Want to come to Pittsburgh next week get some more practice??? Looks like a very nice job you did there. As soon as I figure out how to put pictures on here I will.

 

Thanks - pictures don't look that great but it came out really nice. I spliced into the T-Top in the center of the front latches - it helps a lot with alignment. I spent a whole weekend (fri night, sat and sun) doing this job. Much of it measuring and checking over and over to be sure I didn't change any of the geometry. Good luck

PS (edit) based on this post and your rocker post, it seems as though our cars rusted in similar areas. My lower posts, cowl, and inspection areas by kick panels and rear wheel wells were all real solid, similar to yours. I'm confident I have eliminated all the bad spots. When you do these 2 jobs you will feel great about your cars future!!!

 

When I replaced my frame, I measured from windshield corner to opposite top of rear fenders. I also dropped a plumb bob down to the floor and made corresponding marks. I did each side at a time and spliced in the middle. I also did alot of bracing so nothing shifted. It seemed to work out well. Measure alot!

 

My car previously had another car parked on top of it and, obviously, the windshield post was bent in. My windshield fit is not perfect. I am looking for anyone who has measurements for C3 convertible windshield post. Can you help?

 

Part of my top and corners were bad, but all the rust damage was to the front and bottom of the top bar. I drilled out the spot welds on the corner reinforcements and removed these, then drilled the spot welds along the top bar and took out the front/bottom section. It took a lot of patience to do it this way, but it leaves the frame intact so I didn't have to match dimensions. I've disassembled the donor top bar along the spot welds and will (soon!) put it in using plug welds. If your top bar is damaged on the back, though, this method won't work for you.

 

Imagine using a C3 convertible as a wedge jack for another full frame car at about 40 mph. It's really a sad story, so I guess I ought to tell it.....,

One week before car show, having pulled the car out of the paint booth for polishing, I did a burn out. There was quite an audience there that wanted to see "more"...., so (stupid me).... I backed the car up down an alleyway type parking lot (with cars on both sides) and let her rip. The car launched hard and almost lifted the front tires and I stayed in the throttle. As I hit second gear, while leaving deep black burnout marks on the pavement, I caught a trickle of water..., (here is where it gets hairy...)..., the car jumped 90 degrees to the left and was still shreading the tires and moving in the original direction..., only sideways. Of course, I had the wheel all the way to the right to correct the steer. I was now facing a long fence bordered by cars that were parrallel parked there like a railing. Having large (gonads) and burning adrenalin and testosterone along with massive amounts of fuel, I double stepped the clutch....., The car jumped 180 degrees sideways (corrective steering worked!!) and was now facing the right but still traveling about 60 sideways and to the left (slightly backwards) and sliding towards those cars I mentioned (my railing). It was at this point that I realized that the throttle was stuck wide open... (You don't want this to happen!).

Well, I knew, at that point, while watching that parked, full framed Monte Carlo (did I mention that it was my Monte Carlo??), that I was getting ready to take out my drivers door and quarter on the front end of the MC. THAT.., was simply not acceptable...

Bleeding off on the clutch wasn't working realy well, and it was really too late for all that, so I pushed it in..., and turned into my skid again locking on the brakes. The car did turn to the left and straighted out..., just in time to catch the Monte Carlo with the front left fender. Sliding on gravel now, I was able to watch as my Monte Carlo jumped up in the air (like a freaking monster truck), and rode my left fender, valve cover and windshield until it landed in with the left A frame and wheel in the cockpit of the vette...

With the RPM's SCREAMING, and the clutch still depressed I managed to reach around the tire and turn off the ignition...... mostly from the passenger seat. AT that point, I opened the passenger door and passenger door and crawled out of my "car show ready" Big Block Convertible............

You could have heard a pin drop....

I walked back into my shop and locked the door of the paint booth and painted another car that was waiting for me there while a few spectators (and friends) got the forklift and extracted my Vette.

I restored the car once again and it's beautiful. The car does not see rain, which might explain how 15 years later...., the windshield got busted by the wiper actuator arm. I am now double checking measurements, but think the solution may be as simple as a few spacers on the wiper motor.

Thanks to all for the feedback and input.

Hope you enjoyed my story......

The moral.... "DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME!!"

DALE aka LA Niceguy