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#81
Instructor
Great list!! I did buy the first one I researched, but I DID research it. '79 L82, manual, original owner, garage kept, stock, with 41,000 miles. Paid $15,000, put $3000 into it within 2 months because it sat so much and wasn't driven. The car is reliable now, drove it with the local group last weekend for about 120 miles around the scenic loop and it ran great. SO glad I bought it, even though it still needs the suspension worked on, a/c compressor, and some little stuff.
Papapork, the prev owner did drive it on 10 year old tires with only 400 miles and he had not quite a blowout, but some tire separated and hit the wheel well. It ended up being a $6000.00 bill for him with repair and a new paint job on entire car. The tires looked brand new, but he wasn't thinking about their age. Lesson learned.
Papapork, the prev owner did drive it on 10 year old tires with only 400 miles and he had not quite a blowout, but some tire separated and hit the wheel well. It ended up being a $6000.00 bill for him with repair and a new paint job on entire car. The tires looked brand new, but he wasn't thinking about their age. Lesson learned.
#82
Race Director
THIS is a GOOD LESSON:
Papapork, the prev owner did drive it on 10 year old tires with only 400 miles and he had not quite a blowout, but some tire separated and hit the wheel well. It ended up being a $6000.00 bill for him with repair and a new paint job on entire car. The tires looked brand new, but he wasn't thinking about their age. Lesson learned.
Papapork, the prev owner did drive it on 10 year old tires with only 400 miles and he had not quite a blowout, but some tire separated and hit the wheel well. It ended up being a $6000.00 bill for him with repair and a new paint job on entire car. The tires looked brand new, but he wasn't thinking about their age. Lesson learned.
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ClassicAuto (12-14-2022)
#83
Advanced
C3 parts bucket...
My C3 project started as a Craigslist find that said "Assembly Required."
The amazingly high-performance L48 was full of water. There were no front springs. The entire interior was taken apart. Nearly every part needed replacement or restoration. Even done, this fairly notably non-collectible was worth 'practically nothing' compared to the cost to bring it back to life in any sort of way that is representative of a project that I'd undertake.
It has now been two years 'in the works' and I'm planning on being able to drive it sometime closely approximating the turn of the century...
It quit being a project. Now it's personal. It is me or the 'vette.
When I started it, I was thinking a 'mostly strip' car with some limited street use...to keep the budget 'in check.' The budget has far exceeded any reasonable bounds and now it is a 'hot rod street car' that won't be completed until every part is replaced or restored.
I could have easily purchased two 'done' cars by now...but this is too far down the road to be simply about a 'reasonable' investment, if such can be applied to a '77 C3.
In spite of it all, the kid from Canada is doing a C3 and he's got talent. If I had even a fractional percentage of the time he's spent on his car to spend on mine, I'd be fat, dumb and happy instead of just fat and dumb.
Somewhere along the way, I decided to take it down to bare metal and start over. I actually have a 'version 2' plan, assuming that I ever get through v1.0. In order to 'constrain' costs, I opted for a rebuilt street-strip TH350 so that I didn't have to shorten the driveshaft for a 700R4, but opted for a 3.90:1 rear ratio with that in mind for my 'next' upgrade.
I built a solid 377" stroker (a 383 rotating assembly in a standard bore block) torque monster. Low RPM, maximum torque. Pump gas...not that gasoline will still be available for sell when it is 'done.'
Several dozen orders from Eckler's later and I've only got about 500 or so more to buy before I have 'enough' parts to start thinking that I'm narrowing in on the finish line...
I quit counting how much I've spent on it. It is easier to accept that way. One begins to wonder how much more fun a new C6 would have been if the receipts were added up.
But, like every other dream chaser, it was always the C3 that was 'the car' to have during my formulative years. The T-tops. The sharp Stingray lines (even if GM dropped Stingray badging from mine).
Interesting nuances like whether it is an 'early' or 'late' '77 became issues during the process.
The car is definitely not a 'true' restoration. It is a 'resto-mod' for sure. The custom rear bumper cover and hood differentiate it slightly from the plethora of L88 hooded C3s. Not that I don't like them, but it seems an overdone icon at this point.
The color is now candy apple red. If I have to visit Eckler's one more time and reselect '77 Red' one more time because the website 'forgot' it in my 'cart' (while waiting for the next 20% off sale) ...I'll probably scream...to no obvious avail.
Five grand here. Three there. After awhile it starts adding up and, unlike congress, printing my own money is 'frowned upon' by those who consider it their birthright.
I originally started the project thinking that it would be a good father-son project. My (then) 16yo son had absolutely zero interest in it and couldn't share 'the vision' of a completed C3, even with the prospect of driving one of the coolest cars on the planet to-from high school looming in sight. I probably would have given important body parts for even a hint of such an opportunity when I was a kid.
With roughly no help (without a minimum death threat), I endeavored to power on through the project. I was too far invested to turn back...oh, if I'd only known. I could have saved a bundle.
I'm kinda-sorta hoping that it is 'done enough' for my 8th grader daughter to drive in HS. I do have a shotgun propped up next to the door for any young gentlemen callers who might be thinking that a girl in a 'vette would be 'interesting' (without the load of bird shot in the nuts).
I'm fairly sure that she will never appreciate the effort involved...
The bottom line is that there is no bottom line. You have to do it because you love the body lines and you want it.
MxB
The amazingly high-performance L48 was full of water. There were no front springs. The entire interior was taken apart. Nearly every part needed replacement or restoration. Even done, this fairly notably non-collectible was worth 'practically nothing' compared to the cost to bring it back to life in any sort of way that is representative of a project that I'd undertake.
It has now been two years 'in the works' and I'm planning on being able to drive it sometime closely approximating the turn of the century...
It quit being a project. Now it's personal. It is me or the 'vette.
When I started it, I was thinking a 'mostly strip' car with some limited street use...to keep the budget 'in check.' The budget has far exceeded any reasonable bounds and now it is a 'hot rod street car' that won't be completed until every part is replaced or restored.
I could have easily purchased two 'done' cars by now...but this is too far down the road to be simply about a 'reasonable' investment, if such can be applied to a '77 C3.
In spite of it all, the kid from Canada is doing a C3 and he's got talent. If I had even a fractional percentage of the time he's spent on his car to spend on mine, I'd be fat, dumb and happy instead of just fat and dumb.
Somewhere along the way, I decided to take it down to bare metal and start over. I actually have a 'version 2' plan, assuming that I ever get through v1.0. In order to 'constrain' costs, I opted for a rebuilt street-strip TH350 so that I didn't have to shorten the driveshaft for a 700R4, but opted for a 3.90:1 rear ratio with that in mind for my 'next' upgrade.
I built a solid 377" stroker (a 383 rotating assembly in a standard bore block) torque monster. Low RPM, maximum torque. Pump gas...not that gasoline will still be available for sell when it is 'done.'
Several dozen orders from Eckler's later and I've only got about 500 or so more to buy before I have 'enough' parts to start thinking that I'm narrowing in on the finish line...
I quit counting how much I've spent on it. It is easier to accept that way. One begins to wonder how much more fun a new C6 would have been if the receipts were added up.
But, like every other dream chaser, it was always the C3 that was 'the car' to have during my formulative years. The T-tops. The sharp Stingray lines (even if GM dropped Stingray badging from mine).
Interesting nuances like whether it is an 'early' or 'late' '77 became issues during the process.
The car is definitely not a 'true' restoration. It is a 'resto-mod' for sure. The custom rear bumper cover and hood differentiate it slightly from the plethora of L88 hooded C3s. Not that I don't like them, but it seems an overdone icon at this point.
The color is now candy apple red. If I have to visit Eckler's one more time and reselect '77 Red' one more time because the website 'forgot' it in my 'cart' (while waiting for the next 20% off sale) ...I'll probably scream...to no obvious avail.
Five grand here. Three there. After awhile it starts adding up and, unlike congress, printing my own money is 'frowned upon' by those who consider it their birthright.
I originally started the project thinking that it would be a good father-son project. My (then) 16yo son had absolutely zero interest in it and couldn't share 'the vision' of a completed C3, even with the prospect of driving one of the coolest cars on the planet to-from high school looming in sight. I probably would have given important body parts for even a hint of such an opportunity when I was a kid.
With roughly no help (without a minimum death threat), I endeavored to power on through the project. I was too far invested to turn back...oh, if I'd only known. I could have saved a bundle.
I'm kinda-sorta hoping that it is 'done enough' for my 8th grader daughter to drive in HS. I do have a shotgun propped up next to the door for any young gentlemen callers who might be thinking that a girl in a 'vette would be 'interesting' (without the load of bird shot in the nuts).
I'm fairly sure that she will never appreciate the effort involved...
The bottom line is that there is no bottom line. You have to do it because you love the body lines and you want it.
MxB
The following 2 users liked this post by Mexican Bob:
BachelorOfScience (03-30-2023),
Lawdog800 (01-30-2021)
#84
Drifting
My C3 project started as a Craigslist find that said "Assembly Required."
The amazingly high-performance L48 was full of water. There were no front springs. The entire interior was taken apart. Nearly every part needed replacement or restoration. Even done, this fairly notably non-collectible was worth 'practically nothing' compared to the cost to bring it back to life in any sort of way that is representative of a project that I'd undertake.
It has now been two years 'in the works' and I'm planning on being able to drive it sometime closely approximating the turn of the century...
It quit being a project. Now it's personal. It is me or the 'vette.
When I started it, I was thinking a 'mostly strip' car with some limited street use...to keep the budget 'in check.' The budget has far exceeded any reasonable bounds and now it is a 'hot rod street car' that won't be completed until every part is replaced or restored.
I could have easily purchased two 'done' cars by now...but this is too far down the road to be simply about a 'reasonable' investment, if such can be applied to a '77 C3.
In spite of it all, the kid from Canada is doing a C3 and he's got talent. If I had even a fractional percentage of the time he's spent on his car to spend on mine, I'd be fat, dumb and happy instead of just fat and dumb.
Somewhere along the way, I decided to take it down to bare metal and start over. I actually have a 'version 2' plan, assuming that I ever get through v1.0. In order to 'constrain' costs, I opted for a rebuilt street-strip TH350 so that I didn't have to shorten the driveshaft for a 700R4, but opted for a 3.90:1 rear ratio with that in mind for my 'next' upgrade.
I built a solid 377" stroker (a 383 rotating assembly in a standard bore block) torque monster. Low RPM, maximum torque. Pump gas...not that gasoline will still be available for sell when it is 'done.'
Several dozen orders from Eckler's later and I've only got about 500 or so more to buy before I have 'enough' parts to start thinking that I'm narrowing in on the finish line...
I quit counting how much I've spent on it. It is easier to accept that way. One begins to wonder how much more fun a new C6 would have been if the receipts were added up.
But, like every other dream chaser, it was always the C3 that was 'the car' to have during my formulative years. The T-tops. The sharp Stingray lines (even if GM dropped Stingray badging from mine).
Interesting nuances like whether it is an 'early' or 'late' '77 became issues during the process.
The car is definitely not a 'true' restoration. It is a 'resto-mod' for sure. The custom rear bumper cover and hood differentiate it slightly from the plethora of L88 hooded C3s. Not that I don't like them, but it seems an overdone icon at this point.
The color is now candy apple red. If I have to visit Eckler's one more time and reselect '77 Red' one more time because the website 'forgot' it in my 'cart' (while waiting for the next 20% off sale) ...I'll probably scream...to no obvious avail.
Five grand here. Three there. After awhile it starts adding up and, unlike congress, printing my own money is 'frowned upon' by those who consider it their birthright.
I originally started the project thinking that it would be a good father-son project. My (then) 16yo son had absolutely zero interest in it and couldn't share 'the vision' of a completed C3, even with the prospect of driving one of the coolest cars on the planet to-from high school looming in sight. I probably would have given important body parts for even a hint of such an opportunity when I was a kid.
With roughly no help (without a minimum death threat), I endeavored to power on through the project. I was too far invested to turn back...oh, if I'd only known. I could have saved a bundle.
I'm kinda-sorta hoping that it is 'done enough' for my 8th grader daughter to drive in HS. I do have a shotgun propped up next to the door for any young gentlemen callers who might be thinking that a girl in a 'vette would be 'interesting' (without the load of bird shot in the nuts).
I'm fairly sure that she will never appreciate the effort involved...
The bottom line is that there is no bottom line. You have to do it because you love the body lines and you want it.
The amazingly high-performance L48 was full of water. There were no front springs. The entire interior was taken apart. Nearly every part needed replacement or restoration. Even done, this fairly notably non-collectible was worth 'practically nothing' compared to the cost to bring it back to life in any sort of way that is representative of a project that I'd undertake.
It has now been two years 'in the works' and I'm planning on being able to drive it sometime closely approximating the turn of the century...
It quit being a project. Now it's personal. It is me or the 'vette.
When I started it, I was thinking a 'mostly strip' car with some limited street use...to keep the budget 'in check.' The budget has far exceeded any reasonable bounds and now it is a 'hot rod street car' that won't be completed until every part is replaced or restored.
I could have easily purchased two 'done' cars by now...but this is too far down the road to be simply about a 'reasonable' investment, if such can be applied to a '77 C3.
In spite of it all, the kid from Canada is doing a C3 and he's got talent. If I had even a fractional percentage of the time he's spent on his car to spend on mine, I'd be fat, dumb and happy instead of just fat and dumb.
Somewhere along the way, I decided to take it down to bare metal and start over. I actually have a 'version 2' plan, assuming that I ever get through v1.0. In order to 'constrain' costs, I opted for a rebuilt street-strip TH350 so that I didn't have to shorten the driveshaft for a 700R4, but opted for a 3.90:1 rear ratio with that in mind for my 'next' upgrade.
I built a solid 377" stroker (a 383 rotating assembly in a standard bore block) torque monster. Low RPM, maximum torque. Pump gas...not that gasoline will still be available for sell when it is 'done.'
Several dozen orders from Eckler's later and I've only got about 500 or so more to buy before I have 'enough' parts to start thinking that I'm narrowing in on the finish line...
I quit counting how much I've spent on it. It is easier to accept that way. One begins to wonder how much more fun a new C6 would have been if the receipts were added up.
But, like every other dream chaser, it was always the C3 that was 'the car' to have during my formulative years. The T-tops. The sharp Stingray lines (even if GM dropped Stingray badging from mine).
Interesting nuances like whether it is an 'early' or 'late' '77 became issues during the process.
The car is definitely not a 'true' restoration. It is a 'resto-mod' for sure. The custom rear bumper cover and hood differentiate it slightly from the plethora of L88 hooded C3s. Not that I don't like them, but it seems an overdone icon at this point.
The color is now candy apple red. If I have to visit Eckler's one more time and reselect '77 Red' one more time because the website 'forgot' it in my 'cart' (while waiting for the next 20% off sale) ...I'll probably scream...to no obvious avail.
Five grand here. Three there. After awhile it starts adding up and, unlike congress, printing my own money is 'frowned upon' by those who consider it their birthright.
I originally started the project thinking that it would be a good father-son project. My (then) 16yo son had absolutely zero interest in it and couldn't share 'the vision' of a completed C3, even with the prospect of driving one of the coolest cars on the planet to-from high school looming in sight. I probably would have given important body parts for even a hint of such an opportunity when I was a kid.
With roughly no help (without a minimum death threat), I endeavored to power on through the project. I was too far invested to turn back...oh, if I'd only known. I could have saved a bundle.
I'm kinda-sorta hoping that it is 'done enough' for my 8th grader daughter to drive in HS. I do have a shotgun propped up next to the door for any young gentlemen callers who might be thinking that a girl in a 'vette would be 'interesting' (without the load of bird shot in the nuts).
I'm fairly sure that she will never appreciate the effort involved...
The bottom line is that there is no bottom line. You have to do it because you love the body lines and you want it.
Mark
The following users liked this post:
ClassicAuto (12-14-2022)
#86
It really depends on what you buy. If you want it to be a project car than it will be a money pit. If you get one in great condition that has been taken care of then it won't as much. Mine has a rebuilt engine and a mostly new interior. I have owned it over a year now and have not put any money into fixing things yet. Granted there are some things I want to fix but nothing that really keeps the car from looking good or from being drivable. Sure at some point down the road I am sure something big will need to be replaced, but as long as you take good care of the car it shouldn't be too bad.
A good deal should be around 11K or more. It will depend how much work has actually been done. If the car has been completely restored and looks new, then it will be a couple thousand more. The ones that are 4 and 5K I would stay away from. Be patient, you will find exactly what you want. Don't loose the logic because you know your getting one now. Also, whatever you do, when you are talking to a seller or looking the car over....don't kick the tires. haha
Keep in mind, if something does need to be replaced, try to fix yourself before taking it to the shop. It is not your daily driver so if it is out of commission for a month while you try to do it yourself its ok. This site and many online resources should give you the knowledge you need. You just have to be wiling to take the plunge into mechanics.
If you need to talk privately, send me a PM. I am not an expert but I went through this just over a year ago.
A good deal should be around 11K or more. It will depend how much work has actually been done. If the car has been completely restored and looks new, then it will be a couple thousand more. The ones that are 4 and 5K I would stay away from. Be patient, you will find exactly what you want. Don't loose the logic because you know your getting one now. Also, whatever you do, when you are talking to a seller or looking the car over....don't kick the tires. haha
Keep in mind, if something does need to be replaced, try to fix yourself before taking it to the shop. It is not your daily driver so if it is out of commission for a month while you try to do it yourself its ok. This site and many online resources should give you the knowledge you need. You just have to be wiling to take the plunge into mechanics.
If you need to talk privately, send me a PM. I am not an expert but I went through this just over a year ago.
#87
8th Gear
Member Since: Nov 2013
Location: Phelan California
Posts: 8
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Don't pay what ever the other guy is asking price happen to be. When I and my friend started, just about everything that had been done was slip shad work. Looking back now in hind sight I payed way too much and much more work than I first expected.
#88
Burning Brakes
I have another item to add to your list:
Feel the inside edge of the fenders by the wheel wells and wherever you can access the fiberglass panel edges or lips. If you feel globs of fiberglass, chances are the car has been hit. This doesn't mean you should walk away immediately but means you may have to spend more money on bodywork in the future. As well if the owner tells you the cars hasn't been hit he may not be telling the truth. That's when you walk away,....
Feel the inside edge of the fenders by the wheel wells and wherever you can access the fiberglass panel edges or lips. If you feel globs of fiberglass, chances are the car has been hit. This doesn't mean you should walk away immediately but means you may have to spend more money on bodywork in the future. As well if the owner tells you the cars hasn't been hit he may not be telling the truth. That's when you walk away,....
#89
TheCorvetteBen
Thread Starter
I have another item to add to your list:
Feel the inside edge of the fenders by the wheel wells and wherever you can access the fiberglass panel edges or lips. If you feel globs of fiberglass, chances are the car has been hit. This doesn't mean you should walk away immediately but means you may have to spend more money on bodywork in the future. As well if the owner tells you the cars hasn't been hit he may not be telling the truth. That's when you walk away,....
Feel the inside edge of the fenders by the wheel wells and wherever you can access the fiberglass panel edges or lips. If you feel globs of fiberglass, chances are the car has been hit. This doesn't mean you should walk away immediately but means you may have to spend more money on bodywork in the future. As well if the owner tells you the cars hasn't been hit he may not be telling the truth. That's when you walk away,....
#90
5th Gear
Member Since: Mar 2014
Location: Kent Washington
Posts: 5
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Good info - thanks for providing your experience! My hubby and I are looking at a 1978 Pace Car. Asking price is $25, which appears to be median price according to KBB, but sounds overpriced based on comments here. 15K original miles and looks like it has been garaged most of it's life. Already know door locks, heater/AC fan don't work but engine is strong and steering is tight. Am having a mechanic look it over. Any specific advice when looking at a car that has been sitting for this long? Should we walk away?
#91
Le Mans Master
Good info - thanks for providing your experience! My hubby and I are looking at a 1978 Pace Car. Asking price is $25, which appears to be median price according to KBB, but sounds overpriced based on comments here. 15K original miles and looks like it has been garaged most of it's life. Already know door locks, heater/AC fan don't work but engine is strong and steering is tight. Am having a mechanic look it over. Any specific advice when looking at a car that has been sitting for this long? Should we walk away?
#92
I'd be sceptical of the 15K original mileage. If this is true there will be virtually no wear on the gas and break pedals. Remember these are easy to replace with new also. Even if this is true mileage there will be issues with it having sat for all these years. Calipers will be seized, bushings and seals will be dried up but these are easy fixes. Have it looked over by a good mechanic not by one suggested by the seller, they are usually friends and have a common goal. I find most vintage car sellers ask a little more than what they will most likely take because these machines are really worth what someone will agree to pay for them. All the same, this sounds like it could be a solid machine. I'm always more concerned what it looks like underneath, forget about the shiny clear coat. Take the interior kick plate trim off on each side and make sure the bird cage is solid. That's your best starting point. It's only a couple screws. If he's reluctant he may be trying to hide something.
#93
Burning Brakes
78 Pace Car
Good info - thanks for providing your experience! My hubby and I are looking at a 1978 Pace Car. Asking price is $25, which appears to be median price according to KBB, but sounds overpriced based on comments here. 15K original miles and looks like it has been garaged most of it's life. Already know door locks, heater/AC fan don't work but engine is strong and steering is tight. Am having a mechanic look it over. Any specific advice when looking at a car that has been sitting for this long? Should we walk away?
Look at the underside of the doors as they are most likely the place where rust or water penetration will show up. The body bolt behind the kick plate (on either side) will also give you an idea as to the exposure to moisture,.. as most C3's will have at least surface rust.
Dried up bushings should be there, but I don't think you should see systems that have failed after only 15k.
Outside of that, the only other comment or suggestion I would have would be this,.. if your willing to spend $25k on a C3 Corvette, look for something with greater potential value, you may be able to get lucky and pick up a Big Block from 69-72 and know that you have made an investment that will pay dividends 10 years from now.
Best of luck,..
#96
c3 dos and donts
hello everyone. i am a newbie to the forum. forgive me for my redundant questions. i have been around all types of corvettes. at the tender age of 50 i finally got around to buying a c3. 1978 anniversary car. not the original two tone gray and black. repainted a metalic burgundy with rally rims on it very pretty car. has the oyster white interior. colors really make the car pop. everything is pretty sold. but like you say. i did find some things under the hood that bubba got his hands on. major electric to fix too. interior needs replaced. got if for the wife for xmas. she grew up with vettes in her life. her father has six of them. so i look forward to working on it with the help of all of you which i am sure i will need from time to time. look forward to talking to all.
#97
Heel & Toe
Member Since: Aug 2007
Location: Abilene TX
Posts: 23
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Jeffery73's comment on the Trim Tag was very helpful, but from his pic one cannot tell exactly where to find it. That would be helpful.
Great thread. Thanks to all for contributing.
Great thread. Thanks to all for contributing.
#98
Safety Car
I wish I would've read this thread before I purchased my car... although I still ended up with a decent car compared to many, the things I overlooked are too numerous to list.
mardyn
mardyn
#99
Burning Brakes
#100
Heel & Toe
Member Since: May 2014
Location: Arvada Colorado
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Good information! I just picked up a 1973 Stingray which had been sitting in a garage for the past six years. Luckily it is in excellent condition except for the fuel system - still have to figure that one out.