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When I bought my 73 last winter, the wheels were in terrible condition. All the metal polish in the world wasn't gonna put a shine on them. These wheels had no clearcoat on them. I ended up sanding by hand with 220 grit paper...and worked my way up to 2000 wet. Then I used a die grinder with small 2" diameter felt buffing wheels with 3 levels of aluminum cutting compound....then followed with Mothers metal polish. I have about $100 in them, including the center caps/lugs, compounds and paint for the slots. Probably have 8+ hours in each wheel, but I think they came out OK.
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After:
Not sure when they started or stopped clearcoating these factory wheels, but there are definitely lots of them out there that do have the clear on them. My dad does specialty metal polishing, mostly automotive, and I have personally stripped multiple sets of these rims. we use aircraft stripper. It's fast and easy, and in most cases the clear will just rinse off. The best way to get a high polish is to treat it like you would anything else you want to get smooth. You start with the finest abrasive that will effectively remove the defects (scratches, pitting, etc.), then you move to a finer abrasive to get those lighter scratches out, and so on untill you are using a polish. We use an industrial buffer with 12"-18" buffing wheels and multiple polishing/buffing compounds after and sanding that is necessary. For those harder to get to details like on a manifold, we use air tools with specialty bids for sanding and buffing. The last step is always to hand polish with compound.
When I bought my 73 last winter, the wheels were in terrible condition. All the metal polish in the world wasn't gonna put a shine on them. These wheels had no clearcoat on them. I ended up sanding by hand with 220 grit paper...and worked my way up to 2000 wet. Then I used a die grinder with small 2" diameter felt buffing wheels with 3 levels of aluminum cutting compound....then followed with Mothers metal polish. I have about $100 in them, including the center caps/lugs, compounds and paint for the slots. Probably have 8+ hours in each wheel, but I think they came out OK.
Before:
After:
8 hours a wheel way to much time. Here is what you do! dismount tires and valve stems. Mount rims on drive axle and spin at around 20mph watching coolant temp and fuel gauge LOL. Then sand with 120/180/400wet/600wet ... then use polish compound. takes about 1 hour a wheel and no sore hands from sanding. When using this method just watch rim for uniform texture color and you can see when it needs more sanding. Probably have to hand sand where lugnuts are but thats easy.
using emery/tripoli/white rouge will easily remove 600wet marks no need to go to 2000 grit
1. My 78 rims look like your original rims and I thought they were brushed aluminum rather than polished aluminum. Does anyone know which one came standard on the car?
2. If they are brushed aluminum will the same restoration process work to bring them back to life?
3. What type of paint did you use to paint the black areas on the rims and how did you apply it?
Chevy had to wait until 1976 to make the aluminum wheels available to public because they had the same finish and quality issues we are now experiencing down the road. kelsey hayes was the vendor in 76.
your spare looks good, a lot better than a lot of the on-car wheels out now.
Originally Posted by vetteman1978
The original aluminum wheels from 73 to 76 were "brushed" aluminum - not buffed. Not 100% sure when they went to polished.
Here is my 76 spare (yeah - I need a little lacquer thinner on the white letters )
There is no clear coat on the originals. I have to be very careful when I clean them so I don't "polish" them. I just use soap & water & wipe - not rub.
Thanks for the lacquer thinner tip. Going out to the garage now!
I used trim paint, in a can, avaliable from most vette catalogs. I taped with masking tape, and used a wine cork to push the tape against the rim to make sure I had a tight seal. I recommend taping, sealing, then drinking the wine, otherwise the thrid and fourth wheel might look funny the next day.
Originally Posted by Scottman
A couple of questions.
1. My 78 rims look like your original rims and I thought they were brushed aluminum rather than polished aluminum. Does anyone know which one came standard on the car?
2. If they are brushed aluminum will the same restoration process work to bring them back to life?
3. What type of paint did you use to paint the black areas on the rims and how did you apply it?
mine currently look like first picture; excellent job on finished product. By the way, how can there ever be too much time spent on a vette?
Originally Posted by 1982TPIVette
8 hours a wheel way to much time. Here is what you do! dismount tires and valve stems. Mount rims on drive axle and spin at around 20mph watching coolant temp and fuel gauge LOL. Then sand with 120/180/400wet/600wet ... then use polish compound. takes about 1 hour a wheel and no sore hands from sanding. When using this method just watch rim for uniform texture color and you can see when it needs more sanding. Probably have to hand sand where lugnuts are but thats easy.
using emery/tripoli/white rouge will easily remove 600wet marks no need to go to 2000 grit
Yeah, I know it seems like a lot of time. The big problem was that the wheels had some pitting from years of neglect. So, I just took some extra time with the very coarse grit paper to work them out as much as possible....and dressed a few blemishes with a file. I also cleaned the inside of the wheels to look near new...guess I'm just slow...LOL
When I bought my 73 last winter, the wheels were in terrible condition. All the metal polish in the world wasn't gonna put a shine on them. These wheels had no clearcoat on them. I ended up sanding by hand with 220 grit paper...and worked my way up to 2000 wet. Then I used a die grinder with small 2" diameter felt buffing wheels with 3 levels of aluminum cutting compound....then followed with Mothers metal polish. I have about $100 in them, including the center caps/lugs, compounds and paint for the slots. Probably have 8+ hours in each wheel, but I think they came out OK.
WOW! We are supposed to believe those are the same wheels!? - Just kidding! That looks absolutely great!
Also, if you happen to have any curb rash on the wheels, take a fine file and file the scratches out followed by some fine sandpaper followed by the steel wool and buffing. A mothers power ball and my electric drill did wonders to mine. It is much easier if you take the wheel off the car before starting.
when using steel wool start with 0 finish with 0000. No other mag polish that I have found will give you the results that Mothers will.. also when you finish polishing wipe the rim real good with a clean dry cloth, then if you want to save that finish it would be a good time to re-clearcoat. I've done this on several motorcycles and car rims, because if you don't you will be seeing spots hear and there and you will find yourself polishing your rims about once a month.
From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
Originally Posted by 80_vette
Mine ...After using Mother's Power Ball....About 15 minutes per wheel
Mine looked just like FLA-C4 first picture when I got the car. I cleaned them up with some 000 steel wool and then have hit them a couple times with a Power Ball, but I don't have near the shine you do. I have a feeling this winter I'll be sanding my wheels down like FLA-C4. I have too many drive train parts I want before wheels make the purchase list.
Mine ...After using Mother's Power Ball....About 15 minutes per wheel ]
That power ball sure slings the polish around and will get all over everything, unless you use the polish sparingly. You can also use some Semi-Chrome Polish to speed things up a bit.
I don't believe '76 factory aluminum wheels were clearcoated, at least mine were not. Also, I believe, the spare tire rim was a ralley, not an aluminum rim.
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