Why remove all paint?
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 86
Likes: 2
From: Covington, La
Why remove all paint?
I'm new to Corvettes but I do have some experience with body work and painting on regular cars, I worked in a paint & body shop while in high school, many, many years ago.
My question is why does all the paint have to be removed from Corvettes? Is it necessary? I've read threads where people use paint remover, media blast and sand off paint, which is best method?
Thanks
My question is why does all the paint have to be removed from Corvettes? Is it necessary? I've read threads where people use paint remover, media blast and sand off paint, which is best method?
Thanks
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 267
From: Austin Texas
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
you have done body work, .... then you should know,
#1 to thick of old paint underneath will may lead to anything from cracking, crazing, paint delaminating.
you have no way of knowing what is under the current paint.
the only way to be sure of a good foundation for your new paint job.
Is to remove all the unkown possibilites that are currently under the paint job, not to mention compabilities of old paints, and new paints.
Preparation is everything on a paint job.
#1 to thick of old paint underneath will may lead to anything from cracking, crazing, paint delaminating.
you have no way of knowing what is under the current paint.
the only way to be sure of a good foundation for your new paint job.
Is to remove all the unkown possibilites that are currently under the paint job, not to mention compabilities of old paints, and new paints.
Preparation is everything on a paint job.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Chemical strippers are fine for the top coats but you want to avoid letting it get into the fiberglass. It would be hard to get out and it'll cause problems if you paint over a section of glass that's saturated with chemical strippers.
Blasting is not really preferred because it can actually create more body work than is needed. Lots of filling.
Same for using a DA. Someone good and with lots of experience can DA most of the top coats but be careful round hard edges and ridges.
Razor blading is a popular method, but it can leave gouges if you're not careful.
Either way, hand sanding with blocks is best when you're down to the primer and bare glass.
Blasting is not really preferred because it can actually create more body work than is needed. Lots of filling.
Same for using a DA. Someone good and with lots of experience can DA most of the top coats but be careful round hard edges and ridges.
Razor blading is a popular method, but it can leave gouges if you're not careful.
Either way, hand sanding with blocks is best when you're down to the primer and bare glass.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 1
From: Nashville TN
I find the best method of removing old paint is going to a local body shop and writing a check hahaha.
Seriously, I would DA it if you are comfortable with the equipment.
I wouldnt use a razor blade if I had a DA available and I would never use chemical stripper again due to the mess and the mess and the mess, not to mention the possible problems of paint blisters and bubbles after the fresh paint is applied.
Good luck!
Seriously, I would DA it if you are comfortable with the equipment.
I wouldnt use a razor blade if I had a DA available and I would never use chemical stripper again due to the mess and the mess and the mess, not to mention the possible problems of paint blisters and bubbles after the fresh paint is applied.
Good luck!
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,229
Likes: 643
From: Orange County Ca
Well, it all depends on your car. If you have a $3k car, do you really want to strip it? If you're going for a $100K NCRS car, then you have to. I'd be willing to bet that there are alot more vettes out there that have been painted over then stripped.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 418
Likes: 0
From: destin fl
Chemical strippers are fine for the top coats but you want to avoid letting it get into the fiberglass. It would be hard to get out and it'll cause problems if you paint over a section of glass that's saturated with chemical strippers.
Blasting is not really preferred because it can actually create more body work than is needed. Lots of filling.
Same for using a DA. Someone good and with lots of experience can DA most of the top coats but be careful round hard edges and ridges.
Razor blading is a popular method, but it can leave gouges if you're not careful.
Either way, hand sanding with blocks is best when you're down to the primer and bare glass.
Blasting is not really preferred because it can actually create more body work than is needed. Lots of filling.
Same for using a DA. Someone good and with lots of experience can DA most of the top coats but be careful round hard edges and ridges.
Razor blading is a popular method, but it can leave gouges if you're not careful.
Either way, hand sanding with blocks is best when you're down to the primer and bare glass.
DA/Block sanding is the ticket. Once all the old paint and primer is removed. I block the SMC body with dry 120 grit paper, and then apply 2K primer surfacer. Guide coat and block with 180, and 320 grit paper. Wet block with 400 grit paper and seal. Wet block the sealer with 600 grit paper. On the C-3 body i seldom use a hard rubber sanding block, just on the door edges. A plastic longboard and soft rubber sanding block for all the curves, and to sharpen up the body lines. Rushing the prep work will show on the final look. Take your time and pay attention to detail. I also do not switch from one product makers primer, paint, clear etc.......... Did i elaborate to much on this subject? Maybe doing this type of work/artwork that is, all day today i can't seem to stop thinking about it. Hope this info helps someone that is getting back into the thick of things.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,871
Likes: 6
From: Sault Ste. Marie Ontario
DA/Block sanding is the ticket. Once all the old paint and primer is removed. I block the SMC body with dry 120 grit paper, and then apply 2K primer surfacer. Guide coat and block with 180, and 320 grit paper. Wet block with 400 grit paper and seal. Wet block the sealer with 600 grit paper. On the C-3 body i seldom use a hard rubber sanding block, just on the door edges. A plastic longboard and soft rubber sanding block for all the curves, and to sharpen up the body lines. Rushing the prep work will show on the final look. Take your time and pay attention to detail. I also do not switch from one product makers primer, paint, clear etc.......... Did i elaborate to much on this subject? Maybe doing this type of work/artwork that is, all day today i can't seem to stop thinking about it. Hope this info helps someone that is getting back into the thick of things.I went the chemical route and it seemed to work out fine. I tried the DA, the razor blades and the hand blocking methods and found the chemical route to be the easiest, but that's just me!
I used Tal-Strip to remove the old layers and neutralized well after every application. Once stripped, We blocked the car with 180 and applied several coats to Evercoat hi-build primer. We continued to block the car with 400 wet and primed again when needed.
The car is nearly ready for the booth. My painter wants the car to be blocked once more with 600 and again with 800 before he starts.
Hopefully, the results will be worth the effort.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,235
Likes: 0
From: Mesa AZ
i had 6 paint jobs on my car. yes, thats bodywork,primer,paint repeated six times . i had no choice but to strip it because i was getting serious laquer check because the third paintjob had no adhesion to the paint underneath.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 582
Likes: 1
From: Madison Wisconsin
There are different types of medea that can be used to remove old coats of paint that are not destructive IE glass beads or walnut shells. I had my car media blasted down to the original lacquer primer and than sanded from there with 180. It was only $400 to blast the whole car and it probaly saved a solid weeks worth of sanding. If you have 2 or more coats of paint especially lacquer and you want to remove it with a DA you are going to be there for awhile 
Last edited by Mad Vette; Aug 15, 2008 at 01:18 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,614
Likes: 7
From: South Florida
Just had the car media blasted. I had it blasted inside and out...and underneath. My painter wanted it media blasted, because it really shows off damage to the fiberglass. It is amazing to see where all the stress cracks, prior body work, and thin spots in the fiberglass were. I had to patch several interior problems caused by old age...and some caused by the nature of fiberglass, the original molds, and gravity (thin spots that broke through). Interestingly, the driver seat mounting points had broken through at the right rear mount. I had to patch six interior points. When all the interior glass work was complete, I primed and coated the interior and part of the undercarriage with lizard skin ceramic/sound deadener. I am very please with how it has turned out so far. Media blasting in my case was significantly more expensive, due the greater surface area. My blaster (who did my frame too) used different media on the fiberglass than he did on metal birdcage rust.
Last edited by Smokin Joe; Dec 11, 2008 at 06:45 PM.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 418
Likes: 0
From: destin fl
Just had the car media blasted. I had it blasted inside and out...and underneath. My painter wanted it media blasted, because it really shows off damage to the fiberglass. It is amazing to see where all the stress cracks, prior body work, and thin spots in the fiberglass were. I had to patch several interior problems caused by old age...and some caused by the nature of fiberglass, the original molds, and gravity (thin spots that broke through). Interestingly, the driver seat mounting points had broken through at the right rear mount. I had to patch six interior points. When all the interior glass work was complete, I primed and coated the interior and part of the undercarriage with lizard skin ceramic/sound deadener. I am very please with how it has turned out so far. Media blasting in my case was significantly more expensive, due the greater surface area. My blaster (who did my frame too) used different media on the fiberglass than he did on metal birdcage rust.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 838
Likes: 0
From: starting to wonder if im welcome here texas
if its already been repainted and the body work is good the just take it to the primer and call it good. that's what im doing, no point in fixing what's not broke.lol
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 124
Likes: 1
From: Bowmanville Ontario
ALL of the old paint doesn't have to be removed, but you want the the overall paint thickness to be as thin as possibleto eliminate cracking problems. Lots of daily driver vettes out there have two coats of paint. If your existing paint job is in good shape AND there's no compatibility issues between the new and old paint, you can get away with a scuff and shoot paint job.
As for my personal favourite, sand it down, it's hard work, takes time , but it can be done by yourself. The results are worth it.
As for my personal favourite, sand it down, it's hard work, takes time , but it can be done by yourself. The results are worth it.
Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,092
Likes: 2
From: walpole ma
you have done body work, .... then you should know,
#1 to thick of old paint underneath will may lead to anything from cracking, crazing, paint delaminating.
you have no way of knowing what is under the current paint.
the only way to be sure of a good foundation for your new paint job.
Is to remove all the unkown possibilites that are currently under the paint job, not to mention compabilities of old paints, and new paints.
Preparation is everything on a paint job.
#1 to thick of old paint underneath will may lead to anything from cracking, crazing, paint delaminating.
you have no way of knowing what is under the current paint.
the only way to be sure of a good foundation for your new paint job.
Is to remove all the unkown possibilites that are currently under the paint job, not to mention compabilities of old paints, and new paints.
Preparation is everything on a paint job.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,930
Likes: 15
From: Calgary Alberta
You won't know there is a problem until the paint starts to lift on you years down the road because the previous owner did poor prep work. Sometimes it takes years for issues to pop up, but when they do, then you'll have to strip the car anyways. The only paint job that I might even consider painting over is the original GM paint, and even then I would still probably remove it. Do it right.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 23,419
Likes: 22
From: In limbo
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