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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 10:34 AM
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Default Block Coating?

What is that coating called that you can put on the lifter valley walls to keep oil from sticking and lets it run off easier?

I have a few things I want to coat.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 10:40 AM
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it's called paint
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_Boy
What is that coating called that you can put on the lifter valley walls to keep oil from sticking and lets it run off easier?

I have a few things I want to coat.
"Glyptol" I think that is the name.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 10:44 AM
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Actually it's Glyptal.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by etteroc
it's called paint

I would never paint a lifter valley with spray paint...how you wouldn't either.


Originally Posted by V-Twin
Actually it's Glyptal.

Yep, that's it, thank you very much. For some reason I had the name Nyalic in my head...and that's just a clear coat.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 11:34 AM
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Way back in the old days we used Rust-Oleum, worked great
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 11:41 AM
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Glyptal:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 12:15 PM
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i've always had a problem with doing this on a street engine. Any coating will eventually heat cycle harden, then crack and flake off. I just don't know how you get the block oil free enough to get good adhesion.

Remember a lot of these techniques are intended for race engines that get torn down after a year or less.

Its not going to last 20 years in a street engine.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 12:52 PM
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that hot oil on the bare cast iron also aids in heat transfer, i read somewhere it was a lot of trouble for no gain of any kind. all of that with a possible huge downside if the coating doesn't stick. i would think long and hard before i did it.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 01:05 PM
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I guess it all comes down to what day you ask and who answers.

I could ask this another day, or read when someone else posted it, and they get nothing but comments from guys that use it religiously and love it.

I have flip flopped a few times on this. I have the chance to put it on in my 405 before I complete the build. I was originally talked into it, then out of it, back into it, and now...back out of it.

Hard choice to make. I don't want to affect cooling, but I like the idea of the oil getting back down to the sump faster.

Man o man.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by dtamustang
that hot oil on the bare cast iron also aids in heat transfer, i read somewhere it was a lot of trouble for no gain of any kind. all of that with a possible huge downside if the coating doesn't stick. i would think long and hard before i did it.
That's my opinion too. If you don't have an oil cooler, using some of the cast iron to transfer (oil) heat to the coolant jacket for disposal seems like a freebie to me.

Besides, painting the internals of a street engine always made me uncomfortable. I gotta agree with Turtle's comment about flaking paint (heading straight for the oil pump screen).
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 01:31 PM
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my gut feeling is that it doesn't effect cooling enough to worry about, but i also have a gut feeling that unless you are doing some serious driving,long sweeping high speed turns where there is a possibility of your oil pickup sucking air ,painting the lifter valley to get max oil return is not going to matter a whole lot one way or the other. i have heard of some guys who have opened up the return holes to a larger size and deburred the lifter valley,i assume that would help.

if you want a little more to ponder i also knew a few guys who painted (glyptal) everything, lifter valley , underside of the block timing chain area, everything that had oil draing back to the pan,their reason was to trap anything abraisive under the coating to keep it from getting loose and doing any damage.

hope i didn't confuse things even more
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 01:39 PM
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Over on the Pontiac forum I frequent, a forum member took the valve covers off for the first time and discovered his rockers had been painted with a metallic paint that had flaked off. Now he has to take his engine apart to flush the paint out of it. Lesson: don't paint your rocker arms (though I think anyone who is smart enough to read is also smart enough to know this already).
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 01:39 PM
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To speed oil return and to try and prevent buildup, you can always deburr and polish those areas. It's a lot of work and the block will have to be cleaned again.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 01:49 PM
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i was under the imression polishing the lifer valley was not a good idea, hurts the heat transfer
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 02:08 PM
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I don't bother with either, but I would assume the oil is doing most of the heat transfer in all cases.

BTW, I while back I took a forklift engine apart that hadn't been apart in 15 years that I know of, and it had a painted coating on the internals that had not deteriorated.
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by etteroc
it's called paint
when (cus it will) comes off it can and will cause damage to the motor. most paint dosnt play nice with oil
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 02:37 PM
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No paint on the block at all is best, A raw block will run the coolest
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 03:05 PM
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Among the reasons they began to paint the inside block surfaces was to seal in any potentially loose casting flash or sand that might fall off. Another was the aforementioned faster oil drain back, which I contend is probably negligible at best. On the typical street motor does anyone really have a big problem with oil not returning to the sump quickly enough?
In my opinion if it's not there, it won't cause any problems
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_Boy
I guess it all comes down to what day you ask and who answers.

I could ask this another day, or read when someone else posted it, and they get nothing but comments from guys that use it religiously and love it.

I have flip flopped a few times on this. I have the chance to put it on in my 405 before I complete the build. I was originally talked into it, then out of it, back into it, and now...back out of it.

Hard choice to make. I don't want to affect cooling, but I like the idea of the oil getting back down to the sump faster.

Man o man.
I beg to differ with all the nays on this subject. The product has been used in electric motors that makes large amounts of heat, soaked in oil. I coat the lifter valley, head cavities, and the front of the block where the timing cover, covers. Never had problems as long as the areas to be coated are perfectly clean and dry......... Go for it
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