Read through this before the installation. Lots of good info.

 

I am very interested in seeing a parts list as well as this is one of a series of projects I plan to do on my 68 this fall. I was thinking of ordering a new bezel precut for single DIN stereo so I can keep the original bezel in tact. Need CD and aux input on the front for an MP3 player. Have a convert 68 so hopefully I can fit the sub and amp under the folded top in the back.

BTW, thanks for all of the good info Durango Boy. I've been reading through all of your old posts to try to glean some information on this.

 

No Matt, you didn't make either of mine. They are both store bought. The tallest one is 8 inches at it's tallest point while the shortest one is 6 at the rear and 5 at the front.

I used the tall one for about a year but ended up having to repair the fiberglass where the hinge mounts to the tray. With the tall sub box behind the drivers seat the tray would hang on the drivers side and sag on the passenger side. Eventually the hinge mount cracked.

With the box that's 2 inches shorter, the tray rests on the wheel well humps which is the natural resting place.

cc

 

Thanks Steve for that info and those sites once i start
I am sure I'll have a few questions

 

I'll post that list in the morning. I was without power all evening, and I'm tired and full from dinner and buzzed from drinks.

 

Thats Ok just looking over that link you sent me to.
Thanks

 

The Sub box is built now I need to buy the sub, head unit, speakers, amp
any ideas? Thanks

 

Okay, sorry it took so long. been a busy Friday.

Anyway, here's a good list of equipment for you.

Head Unit:
http://item.express.ebay.com/NEW-Ken...mdZExpressItem

Front Speakers:
http://item.express.ebay.com/POLK-AU...m%3DA%26ps%3D6

Sub:
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=5803

4 Channel Amp:
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=5221

Amp Install Kit:
http://knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL-AK4

I would suggest a small kit of Dynamat Extreme sound deadener for the back of the kick panels, and a couple layers for the bottom side of the back deck, where the sub will be firing up at.

 

Thanks DB for your response I looked at that sub and
pioneer makes a box for it and there is one on ebay now think I should go that route? Wish I new how to send you the link to ebay.

 

When looking at it, just click in the address bar at the top so the whole address is highlighted in blue. Right click on the blue highlight, and click on copy. Then come back to your post before you submit it, and paste that link. Click submit, and it'll show up.

 

Here's the link think its worth it
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA:IT&ih=005

 

Had also been looking at these heard good things about them
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA:IT&ih=009
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA:IT&ih=009

And what about these speakers will they fit
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA:IT&ih=005

 

That Pioneer and box would work except that box is a long longer than the one you built, which would not leave room for the tops.

The JL subs are VERY deep, meaning your box will have to be very tall, and you'll need a bigger amp to power them.

Finally, the Momo speakers have a larger magnet, and WILL require cutting of the birdcage body mount pocket to fit flush. Also, requiring a larger amp, AND you'll have to find a place to mount the crossovers sway from the IGN system, and find a place to mount the tweeters within 10" of the mid driver.

 

Thanks DB I definetly don't want to cut the bird cage so those momo's
are out. I guess you don't recomend putting the tweeters in the dash,
I seen factory cars have them in the posts,dashes and door panels.
And would the crossovers be ok behind the map pocket say where the original amp was.
As far as the sub I looked strongly at the pioneer shallow sub but could
you explain the pro's and con's of the conventional sub and shallow sub.
Thanks

 

Tweeters in the dash is VERY hard to pull off. I did in mine, because I know how to set it up. You not only have to account for the time delay from the mid-woofer, but there is also a change in direction, where the sound from the kick panels is coming at you differently from the tweeters. You really do want them close...either IN the kick panels, or in the doors right next tot hem.

The crossovers can easily pick up ignition system interference being that close to the firewall, but you can try it and move them later.

Conventional subs have one thing that shallow subs will never have, and that's excursion. The linear travel of the woofer cone, in and out. It's also called Xmax. A sub with a large Xmax, say 15mm, will usually be a louder sub capable of lower frequencies, than a sub with a 10mm Xmax. For instance, I built a taller larger box for my Vette, to use a sub with a 22mm Xmax. It hits VERY hard...a lot better than the sub I had before, with an 18mm Xmax.

The shallow subs do have an advantage in that they usually require almost no air space to function in a sealed box, and they give you the option of a very small enclosure perfect for a C3 that might have a window tray to worry about.

The JL subs you posted are very tall and would probably not fit the box you built, and the box you would need for a large conventional sub like that would be too tall for your window tray.

 

Here's mine. I bought a new gauge bezel on ebay and hacked it up for the head unit.



Then I mounted the Xtant x603 to the back wall. It's a 3 channel amp, 75x2 and 150x1@4 ohms.



I mounted a Focal 165kx2 component system I had in the stock kick panels. The magnets barely fit but they do.



I went with an 8" sub so I could fit the box in the jack compartment. I only needed .35ft3 with this sub so it worked out perfect. It's a tight fit getting it down in there. An 8" is plenty of sub for me and I can still get my tops in there. It's a dual voice coil sub so I can run it at 2ohms to get the most out of my amp. I just took the car out west for two weeks and I had lots of room for my crap and the tops.

 

That looks great how do you like the alpine was looking at one my self the ida-x200 looking for a simple radio one **** and cheap. And the sub in the storage compartment looks great how did you do that, is it sealed.
Nice Job!

 

Thanks. It's a sealed box. I've always used sealed boxes since they usually require half the space. I just measured the opening and tried to work within those parameters.

The Alpine deck works great too. It's a little bright sounding though. I don't know if that's the deck or something else. It's probably not the deck. I think I'm going to add an equalizer to it or get a deck with that built in.

 

I'm curious how you battle vibration. It seems you don't have any deadener or seals on that storage compartment door. Do you leave it open when you listen to the stereo, or does it hop and vibrate?

 

No vibrations to speak of. I don't have it on loud very often and when I do the tops are laying on that door.