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My main concern is will 6 1/2 component speakers fit in the kick
panels without cuting the frame and the sub has to clear the rear
window tray. Also would like to be able to fit the t-tops in the
back for long trips.
Can be done very easy, in fact, I have personally installed a few of this type of system in local C3s, and I have helped a lot of other members install one in their C3s through this forum.
Yes 6.5" coaxial speakers fit very well in the kick panels. A little cutting is needed to the gauge bezel, as well as a small cheap adapter plate. An amp can be easily bolted to the back wall, and a small box with a 10" sub will fit in the back behind the driver and there is still room for the T-tops.
I can make you a list of equipment I recommend if you give me a baseline budget. Here are some pics of a system I put in my friend's '74.
His kick panel speakers now have black grills, but at the time they had not arrived yet. The wires under the amp have been loomed up in a black loom for looks, and he swears it sounds like a Nickleback concert.
That is more or less what I want. If i do it my self I feel like I am
saving money so i can afford some better equipment I would
like to do it for under a grand. What worries me is the magnet
for the 6 1/2 will it be larger than 4" and can I put the tweeter
in the dash. I saw a set of polk 6 1/2 on fleabay but don't think
they fit.
POLK AUDIO MOMO 2-WAY 6 1/2 COMPONENT SPEAKERS MM465
That is more or less what I want. If i do it my self I feel like I am
saving money so i can afford some better equipment I would
like to do it for under a grand. What worries me is the magnet
for the 6 1/2 will it be larger than 4" and can I put the tweeter
in the dash. I saw a set of polk 6 1/2 on fleabay but don't think
they fit.
POLK AUDIO MOMO 2-WAY 6 1/2 COMPONENT SPEAKERS MM465
I usually suggest coaxial speakers for simple C3 installations because then you don't have to worry about mounting crossovers and tweeters. Tweeters are best within 10" of the mid woofer and there just isn't much room down there.
A set of Polk Audio DB651 speakers, coaxial, will fit in the panel and birdcage body mount pocket just fine with no cutting. They are a good speaker and I highly recommend them for budget builds.
Your budget is way high...you can do everything, for between $600 and $700.
As for head unit, even though you might not need a CD player, buying anything but will usually mean you don't get 4 channel RCAs to run to an amp. I can suggest a very affordable high quality head unit that has a USB and iPod jack right on the faceplate.
Doing you own work is the best, as you learn more and it's fun. It's cheaper too.
Ok 600 to 700 sounds great I really have no idea how much all this stuff cost. I would rather not see any wires coming out of the radio do they have ipod
connections in the back of the radio
Nice looking speaker box I like the way it steps up in the rear fills up that dead area. I would like something like that 1/2 that size only up to my cargo light for my sub a little wider( up to the battery box) but at a slant so I can get the rear window tray open.
Ok 600 to 700 sounds great I really have no idea how much all this stuff cost. I would rather not see any wires coming out of the radio do they have ipod
connections in the back of the radio
Yes, lots of head units have iPod connections from the back.
Originally Posted by turbojet
Nice looking speaker box I like the way it steps up in the rear fills up that dead area. I would like something like that 1/2 that size only up to my cargo light for my sub a little wider( up to the battery box) but at a slant so I can get the rear window tray open.
I have been doing car audio for a long time, and one of the first things I learned was to keep it simple and follow the basics. MOST cars and trucks will never need rear speakers if the front speakers are of good quality and tuned properly. The only situation where I suggest rear speakers is in a large SUV where you have rear door speakers and a large cargo area behind that for the sub/s.
The front speakers done right will create a perfect stage for your brain. rear speakers tend to confuse your brain. Hearing it both ways will really put it in perspective. Front speakers, a sub, and an amp. Simple, effective, cheap, and easy.
... and a small box with a 10" sub will fit in the back behind the driver and there is still room for the T-tops.
Guys, I have one of those sub boxes and it's just a little too tall to allow the rear window tray to be used without damage from bending to the passenger side.
I found another box that, including the grill, sits level or slightly lower than the wheel well which is what the tray rests on. But you need to use a sub that is not as deep and fill the box with fiberfill to make up for the lack of air chamber.
cc
Last edited by CCrane65; Aug 14, 2008 at 09:27 AM.
Reason: added picture
Guys, I have one of those sub boxes and it's just a little too tall to allow the rear window tray to be used without damage from bending to the passenger side.
I found another box that, including the grill, sits level or slightly lower than the wheel well which is what the tray rests on. But you need to use a sub that is not as deep and fill the box with fiberfill to make up for the lack of air chamber.
cc
Forgive me for not remembering, but did I make it for you? I made that box for Curt, and it's only 8" at the tallest part. Measure yours and see how tall it is.
For a smaller enclosure with a modest sub, you won't need more than 1/2". If you were building a larger box with a more powerful sub I would suggest 3/4" but I don't think this situation calls for that.
Good plan, stereo upgrade is a must...I recently finished a DB recommended install and it's been a true pleasure. Matt is the CF ace by far.
Watch out for the hidden costs though. $600 -$700 is about right for the full system, but be sure to build in an amp installation kit (~$50), sound deadener if you go that route (~$100-200), an upgraded 100A alternator if you have a demanding amp (~$80), sub enclosure (~$40), and so on. Also, make absolutely sure you buy from reputable dealers that provide guarantee/warranty.
Have you ever installed an amp in a car before? Mine was a learning experience...much higher wire gauge than I'd ever played with before, a little trickier than you're standard 12 gauge stuff. Read up and do your homework, ask questions and make sure you connect the + to the + and the - to the - (don't ask...doorstop anyone?).