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I am in the middle of a frame off restoration. Before starting the project, my engine was running perfect, no smoke, knocks, just ran excellent. It has 104,000 miles and I do not know if it has ever been rebuilt. It is also a matching numbers engine. I was originally thinking just clean it up, paint it, and put it back in. Now that I look at it hanging on the engine stand I am wondering of I should bite the bullet and rebuild it?
Since it is numbers matching I am worried about doing it myself, any ideas how mcuh it would cost?
One warning, if you rebuild it or have it rebuilt, make sure the block does not get decked or if it has the be decked make sure the stamped number pad is not touched.
One warning, if you rebuild it or have it rebuilt, make sure the block does not get decked or if it has the be decked make sure the stamped number pad is not touched.
As long as you make sure the numbers aren't removed from the deck I would rebuild it. You're doing a frame off anyway so you might as well make the engine good as new at the same time. So far, my engine rebuild has been the most satisfying part of my frame off. At times I wished I hadn't taken on the project, mainly because I get impatient, but once I started it up and heard it run I knew I did the right thing.
Frame off almost requires a fresh motor,
I mean what are you gonna say ?
I rebuilt everything, except the motor ! with 100,000 miles on it.
you got the motor out now, bite the bullet and find a good machine shop, be sure to tell / no put it in writing, do NOT DECK the block.
IF they come back and say decking is required, reveiw and supervise the decked , so they won' mill off your #'s .
you should be able to do it super cheap,
rings and bearings and gaskets.
but then and new Cam, and then new heads and then new !
carefull it snowballs quick !
One warning, if you rebuild it or have it rebuilt, make sure the block does not get decked or if it has the be decked make sure the stamped number pad is not touched.
If you builder is skilled enough the right side of the block can be hand decked. It is done pretty regularly.
Another option is to drop a crate engine in and then pickle and store your orignal engine. the final cost between the rebuild and a new (with warranty) crate is close to the same.
By modern standards, 104K miles is not a lot...but for 40 year old technology, 100K miles is a bunch. If you are doing a body-off rebuild, you might as well go all the way. That doesn't mean that you have to "beef-up" the engine; rebuilding to original specs with stock stuff makes a lot of sense (and costs less), if you want it to be 'original' and you are not going to work the car/engine hard. You should have the heads and block cleaned-up by a good machine shop. If the bores are not very worn, you may not even need to rebore it [doubtful, though]. Make sure that you put duct tape on the head stamping boss with the words "DO NOT MACHINE THIS PAD" on it. Also put it in the work contract that the shop ows you $5000 if they mistakenly machine the pad. {They will get all wrankled over it, but it'll get the point across as to how serious you are about it.} New rings, bushings and gaskets....use the same rods and crank if they have no cracks (machine shop can Magnaflux them). I'm sure you would regret NOT having rebuilt it the first time you saw some exhaust 'smoke'.