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Install engine with or without headers bolted up

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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 11:31 AM
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Default Install engine with or without headers bolted up

Just trying to get a feel for those with experience on a C3 small block. Is it easier to bolt up the headers on the stand and install it all at once, or do the engine first and then the headers?
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 11:34 AM
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Engine first, then headers. You'll have all kinds of clearance problems trying to stab it in there with long tube headers bolted to the block.
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 11:43 AM
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That was what I figured.

I removed the old rusty headers this past weekend, and it was really easy*, so I figured that it might be possible to do it all at once, but since the access is pretty good, I'm not going to chance it.

*my previous header install experience was with a '94 Z28, and let me just say, 4th Gen F-bodies are just about as inconvenient as you can get for such a task.
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 12:11 PM
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Yeah, full lenght headers weren't a problem on my 79. On the drivers side the dipstick tube, clutch Z bar and #5 plug had to be removed. On the passenger side, just the starter and A/C bracket that goes bolts up to the front of the header. All of the above you would likely not have bolted up to an engine you're dropping in anyway.
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 01:22 PM
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I didn't have the headers on my engine (ZZ4) when I dropped it in, but the headers where in the engine bay. I used masking tape to hold them out of the way while moving the engine into place. Worked out really well. (I taped the headers to the inside surfaces of the frame rails)
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_Boy
Engine first, then headers. You'll have all kinds of clearance problems trying to stab it in there with long tube headers bolted to the block.
& Less chance of banging up your headers or car...
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 68/70Vette
I didn't have the headers on my engine (ZZ4) when I dropped it in, but the headers where in the engine bay. I used masking tape to hold them out of the way while moving the engine into place. Worked out really well. (I taped the headers to the inside surfaces of the frame rails)
Great idea, and thanks for the tip. Did you have to change out your hood with the ZZ4 or did you not add the serpentine system?
Just curious which way you went with your ZZ4.
Thanks.
David
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 77Sleeper
Great idea, and thanks for the tip. Did you have to change out your hood with the ZZ4 or did you not add the serpentine system?
Just curious which way you went with your ZZ4.
Thanks.
David
I used the GMPP Small Block Serpentine kit on my ZZ4. I used a drop base aircleaner. Actually the bottom (the base) of the aircleaner is from a drop base Morosco unit, with the top of the aircleaner being the stock steel aircleaner top. The Morosco air cleaner was actually pretty cheap, forget exactly how much $30?? It all fits under the stock Small Block hood. I'm using the standard ZZ4 intake manifold also.
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 68/70Vette
I used the GMPP Small Block Serpentine kit on my ZZ4. I used a drop base aircleaner. Actually the bottom (the base) of the aircleaner is from a drop base Morosco unit, with the top of the aircleaner being the stock steel aircleaner top. The Morosco air cleaner was actually pretty cheap, forget exactly how much $30?? It all fits under the stock Small Block hood. I'm using the standard ZZ4 intake manifold also.
Last question I promise and sorry to hijack the postings a bit. Do you have any pictures you could share of the finished install? I am about to purchase a GMPP crate engine and this is the last bit of detail I am considering. I want the ZZ4 350/355 but want to keep my stock hood if I can. Thanks a bunch.
David
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