Ive got a set of jackstands, ramps and a jack. Where do I need to apply pressure before i unbolt the rear spring? I'm hoping to take it out this weekend. Thanks

 

I set mine up on jackstands as high as they would go then I used the floor jack to relieve the pressure at each outward end the removed the bolts then I unbolted it from the rear end. When I installed the new spring I had to get longer bolts as the new spring was thicker than the old one.

 

I did the same when I rebuilt my trailing arms. If I remember right there should be a post in the archives when someone replaced his steel springs with fibre. I remember it was red and he posted several pics of the process. Not hard to get it up on stands. It was harder to get the bolts off. If your not cutting them off use a lot of PB Blaster.
chuck

 

Block the front wheels
Jack stand rear of car, remove wheels
put a hydraulic jack at the end of one spring, near the T/A pull down bolt. I used a piece of 2x4 between the jack and spring.
Jack the spring end up until there's no tension on the bolt.
Put a wrench on the top of the bolt, remove cotter pin and use a ratchet to remove the lower nut.
Slowly let the jack down so it pulls the bushing off of the bolt. remove the bolt and upper bushing and washer.
Repeat for the other side
Remove the 4 spring plate to diff bolts and remove the spring
put on new spring, plate and diff bolts, just torquing the bolts to about 20 lbs or less
Put in new T/A pull bolt, bushing and washer
Jack up spring end until you have enough thread to put on lower bushing and washer, then thread on lower nut and roll it up to the desired location on the bolt. cotter pin it, if your bolts have that feature.
Let off the spring and repeat for the other side.
put wheels back on, put car on the ground.
Get under the car and loosen spring plate bolts till there just finger tight- 2-3 ft lbs.
Roll car back and forth by hand 4-5 feet 3-4 of times to let the tires settle and the spring center/unbind.
Get under the car on the ground and toque the spring plate to diff bolts to spec (50/65ft.lbs?)- look it up.
Dangers are blocking the front wheels so the car doesn't roll off of the jack stands while your under it, and watch the jack head on the end of the spring so it doesn't slip off. I'll bet the spring end could really do a number on your hand, if the jack slipped while you were removing the lower bolt- etc. use care. C .

Also, the steel spring weighs 50 lbs, so don't let it fall on your head when you take off the plate. common sense?

 

The jack method is dangerous and after having a car jump up and off 24" sq blocks I never used it again. If that happened on jack stands the car would have fallen for sure.

I use a 5' pinch bar but you can use a 2x4 (doug fir) or pipe. I place it under the spring end and over the strut rod. I add a pipe to get leverage and a helper can easily control and compress the spring to let me remove the nut and safely lower it down. Works great,I've done it by myself in the past was well, but it's better to have a helper.

 

I have a large clamp that I put on the spring when removeing and reinstalling these springs.
They will do more than crush your hand,they can kill youdead
You need to be in full control of the spring and car at all times, if you are at risk you are doing it wrong!

 

Works for me....................

It's true though,, the method i use could potentially maim or kill you.