When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Had the vert out for a quick run around town. When I got home (I was out about an hour, local traffic, no high speed roads) I found the radiator hissing and steaming. Is it likely a leak? I left the hood up and will check for coolant leaks next. But if there is anything else I need to check let me know. The water temp gauge did not indicate any overheating.
A little more info would help.
Was the core itself steaming, or the radiator cap, or a hose? A lot... a little? How old is the radiator, and hoses. When last did you drive it?
Regards,
Alan
A little more info would help.
Was the core itself steaming, or the radiator cap, or a hose? A lot... a little? How old is the radiator, and hoses. When last did you drive it?
Regards,
Alan
You could take it to your local lube shop and have it preasure tasted
I'm not sure I can state what is a little vs a lot. Steam was coming from what appeared to me to be the core. It appeared to be centered (the steam). I could definitely hear it hissing prior to opening the hood. I can not tell you the age of the radiator or the hoses. I can get some photos to post just in case it might be of help.
I just drove on Wednesday, but it was a trip to work and back (maybe 10 miles total). Today I probably drove about 20 miles and was out about 45 minutes.
I left the hood up and the hissing/steam was gone when I checked back about 20 minutes after shutting off the engine.
You should see dried coolant on the radiator or the base of the shroud or the support if in fact there's a leak. Inspect it carefully. Hissing in the area described usually means a pin hole in the radiator. Also a good time to replace ALL the hoses if you're not sure of their age.
Glenn
I am taking it in to my mechanic in the next couple of days. Should I top off the coolant before I drive it over? I only need to drive it about 5-10 miles to the shop.
Also - best coolant to put in? I read some posts from the Spring discussing what to use. Not sure what the final results were, other than making sure you used distilled water.
I'll have all the hoses inspected while we are there. Anything else to check on while I have it in?
This will be a tough few days since the weather is nice all week and I should be driving!
I am taking it in to my mechanic in the next couple of days. Should I top off the coolant before I drive it over? I only need to drive it about 5-10 miles to the shop.
Also - best coolant to put in? I read some posts from the Spring discussing what to use. Not sure what the final results were, other than making sure you used distilled water.
I'll have all the hoses inspected while we are there. Anything else to check on while I have it in?
This will be a tough few days since the weather is nice all week and I should be driving!
I'd top it off just to make sure you have enough for the ride to the shop. Bring an extra gallon just in case. These things tend to escalate quickly once they start.
I use Prestone which is a 50/50 premix ready to go.
Also check that the thermostat is working properly while your
re at it.
Glenn
Yes it's an old picture. I did hook it up. The connecting hose is there you just don't see it. I just need to find a way to make it stay connected (some form of clamp I assume).
I took the car into my mechanic yesterday. Waiting on call to see if the existing radiator can be repaired or if it needs to be replaced.
If I have to replace, I know a lot of guys recommend DeWitts which is cool with me.
One question - should I replace the fan while I am at it?
It would go from a $600 part to closer to a $1000 part based on DeWitts website.
What really stinks is the weather is perfect this week in Central PA and I won't be driving.
I would not think that you would have to replace the fan. I cant tell from the picture but do you have a fan clutch on the fan? If not it might be something to consider.
Not sure what the fan clutch is/looks like. I just know from some previous posts, guys have recommended swapping out the fan for electric fan. I know there is sometime issue with fan blades detaching and doing a lot of damage. I also have heard that the electric fans do a better job. Just things I have heard/read.
Alright I got all the bad news finally. Radiator is in tough shape. Radiator guy thought it would cost more to recore than replace (not sure what recore involves). His replacement costs were in the $400 range. So I believe my choices are:
1. Go with his radiator replacement around $400
2. Go with DeWitts replacement $500
3. Go with DeWitts fan/radiator combination $900-$1000
I wouldn't consider anything but a Dewitt's for mine and that is solely based on all the good things everyone has to say about their radiators. I would for now leave the fan alone, and see how it runs with a new radiator. If the temp stays in the normal range with just a new radiator, why spend the extra for an electric fan you dont' necessarily need.
Being a small block car and assuming everything else is working fine (thermostat, clutch fan, waterpump, etc) a recore or replacement will probably be fine.
I had mine re-cored so I could keep my original Harrison side tanks. This was for originality sake.
The aluminum radiators do cool much better, however with your setup it might be overkill.
As for the fan, I would make sure the clutch is working before I put in an electric fan. A working clutch fan properly sized properly with a shroud is much more effective than an electric fan.
Radiator guy thought it would cost more to recore than replace (not sure what recore involves). His replacement costs were in the $400 range. Any thoughts?
A re-core is only possible with a copper & brass radiator. The brass side tanks are un-soldered and the center section (core) is thrown away and replaced with a new core.
The problem here is your car was originally equiped with a high performance aluminum radiator from the factory and replacing it with a c/b unit (3390 btu/m) is a 30% downgrade. This aluminum radiator was a very special stacked plate type aluminum radiator that was carried over from C2 and used on C3 base cars.
This is what it looked like (4600 btu/m)
That radiator cost $870 and many people do not want to pay that much for an exact reproduction so we offer this Direct Fit replacement
unit (4100 btu/m) for $525
That does look like my existing radiator, although it was still in the car when I looked at it.
For my information - what is shipping to Harrisburg, PA? I'll need to discuss with my mechanic Monday to determine if he or I will be placing the order. Also what is time frame for delivery if we order Monday?