When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am in the process of replacing the rag joint on my 75 and have hit a sticking point. I have removed the steering column bolts that are just down from the steering wheel and removed the two nuts that are down by the pedal on the firewall. I have also unhooked the cable that is attached to the steering column on the firewall in the engine compartment. I have the instrument panel loose and pulled forward. The column dropped a couple of inches but I have no front to back play in it. What is the problem?
The mechanism that was attached to the cable I disconnected is still there and it seems that it will hit the firewall. Am I going about this the correct way or what? I do have the steering column supported so don't freak out about that.
remove the plate that's on the engine side of the firewall. there's a stud on the left side and a carriage bolt on the right, these are the two nuts that you've already removed. push the steering wheel lock arm down and there will be clearance to push the carriage bolt out. once the bolt is removed, swing the plate out and push the lock bar to it's up position, and it will passs thru an oval cut-out in the firewall.
a word of caution, suuport the column so that it doesn't hang on the rag joint end and the firewall while you're messing with it. i use a bucket and several rolled-up towels sitting on the floor under the dash.
so all I need to do is push the linkage down and push the bolt on the passenger side of the plate out and swing the u shaped plate out of the way and I will be able to move the steering column?
You should just remove the bracket on the front of the dash panel. Or pull it aside still attached to the backdrive cable.
I think that the backdrive lever on the lower end of the steering column needs to be in the UP position in order for the lever to align with the cutout in the dash panel. It helps to have two people on this project. One out under the hood to help align things as the column passes back into driver compartment.
Just wanted to let you know that I have successfully replace the steering coupler on my car. It was a bit challenging and I thank you all for your help and guidance. I certainly know now what to do in the event that I have to replace it again. I drives almost like a new car. The 2-3 inches of slack is gone. I may have the gear box rebuilt when I do the front suspension. Figure it is best to go ahead and not have to worry about it down the road.
I bought a new steering gear box from GM 2 years ago. It came with a new rag joint already mounted. All I did was remove the old steering gear from the frame with the rag joint attached. I then correctly aligned the steering gear according to the instructions and slide the new rag joint onto the steering shaft and bolted the steering gear back onto the frame. Then I tightened the bolts on the rag joint. Of course I had the pitman arm off. It seems like it would be easier to loosen the steering gear from the frame and lower it to gain access to the rag joint.