This can't be good. I've been having issues with my steering. Just this week it started clicking when I turn the wheel while backing out of the driveway. When I turn the wheel far to the right or left (not really in the center) the column is making this clicking noise that sounds like metal on metal.

I decided to poke around a bit under the hood and saw this (probably another issue altogether)....



Notice the bolt is missing the the middle of the above pic. Should that disc be warped like that? Here's a pic of the other side (wheel rotated) with the second bolt intact, but the same warping. I'm a virgin when it comes to cars so expert (or even novice) opinions welcome. What part is this and should I be concerned? Can I put a bolt and nut through there or does the whole assembly need to be replaced?

 

This is a good place to start:
http://wiki.corvettefaq.com/index.php?title=Main_Page

That`s not good...
go to search, type in rag joint...


More guys will chime in...


Rod
Love the Vette

 

Lots of good info here. Hope you're in a comfortable chair.


http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?page_id=4

 

What you are looking at is called a flexible coupling assembly. Someone in the past has rebuilt it with a "kit" that can be purchased at most autoparts stores. The bolts supplied in the kit have come apart and you now have a very serious safety concern.

From your pictures I think that you have a 1968 Corvette with a telescoping steering column. (It is quite important to give this type of information in your posting.) Assuming I am correct about the year of your Vette I suggest that you purchase an OEM flexible coupling GM part #7806391 to replace the part that you have in the car.

The OEM style flexible coupling has stop pins that are hot staked in place and also has shoulder bolts that attach it to the column flange. If you want to learn more about this particular part I suggest you go to www.corvettefaq.com
click on Jim Shea's Steering Articles
click on Corvette Steering Papers
scroll down to the section on Flexible Couplings.

Jim

 

You have a broken reenforcement strap also. Notice the bolt you refer to as the second bolt, see the piece of metal that is curved around the rubber. Now look at your first picture where the bolt is missing, the piece of reenforcement strap is missing also. You need to replace that also, can't just add a bolt.

 

Fe1ix,
May I use your photographs in my papers to explain the safety issues when using some of the flexible coupling rebuild kits that are on the market. Your pictures are priceless in explaining exactly the kind of problem that I have been concerned about.

BTW, I was the engineering supervisor of the flexible coupling group at Saginaw Steering Gear Division, General Motors Corp back in the 1970s and early 1980s when our C3s were in production. So I do have considerable experience with these steering system parts.

I have written to many Corvette suppliers over a year ago explaining the need for bolts with shoulders to provide a metal to metal connection when making attachments through rubber parts such as the flexible coupling disc. I got a very few responses that indicated that they were making their supplier aware of my engineering concerns. Nobody has ever gotten back to indicate that fasteners in the rebuild "kits" have been corrected by using shoulder bolts.

The following sketch shows the parts that I am concerned about.


One last question: I cannot see in your photographs what type of bolt is being used to attach the flex coupling flange to the steering gear. It should be a special bolt (GM #7807271) and is available at GM dealerships and from many suppliers. It should NOT be just a common bolt. BTW, it is the same bolt that is being used to attach the steering column flange to the steering column shaft.

Thank you,
Jim Shea

 

One of the attachment bolts fell out of your steering coupling. If the fiber disc is in good condition (don't worry about the 'warping', but it shouldn't fall apart when you pick at it with a small screwdriver), just replace the bolt with the same size and grade as its 'brother' on the other side. Problem solved.

 

Please do not follow 7T1vette's advise. Common nuts and bolts should NEVER be used to make an attachment through rubber parts! Torque prevailing nuts, double nutting, loctite, etc still will not make a secure connection through rubber. It must be a metal to metal connection.

Jim

 

Thanks, Jim. Maybe you should learn to read. My exact words were "use the same size and grade of bolt". [Your description of what bolt to use was already listed just above my post.]

 

If its "brother on the other side" is not a shoulder bolt, it is just a matter of time until it falls out as well. The parts shown in the photo came from a rebuild kit. Obtaining another kit isn't going to help either.

The Vette in the picture was very close to completely losing steering. This is a critical safety issue.

BTW, I also sent a message to NHTSA through their websight about a year ago about this very subject. I never heard back from them either.
Jim

 

One thing I've seen with the rebuild kits is the rubber material is cheap and flimsy. I gave one away against all advice not to use it and threw the others in the trash. Use a new GM rag joint only.

 

Is this the part number for a 1970 steering box (with a T/T steering column)? Will all the correct bolts be included? My AIM shows a "flange" with part number 7807052 and shows the bolts, etc, as being seperate.

Thanks

 

Just an FYI- Last months Corvette Fever featured an article on this subject and how to replace it. The correct parts are available from GM somewhere around 120.00 bucks.

 

It is true that in production the steering gear came into St. Louis with the flexible coupling already assembled to the input shaft on the gear. However, for service they are seperate parts.

You assemble the flexible coupling all the way until it bottoms out on the gear input shaft. Then tighten the special 7807271 pinch bolt. Tolerance between the steering column and the gear is taken up by the flange on the steering column. That flange has about 1/2 inch of adjustment up and down on the steering column shaft.

1968 and early 1969 steering gears had input shaft with full round splines. 7806391 is the correct flexible coupling with a flange that has full round splines.

Late 69 through 82 gears had an input shaft with a flat machined at 12 o'clock with the gear exactly on center. 7818568 is the correct flexible coupling for this gear. It has a flange that has a matching flat.

I think that both flexible couplings come with orange plastic spacers attached to the stop pins. They assist in centralizing the steering column to the flexible coupling on the steering gear. There is limited adjustment of the lower end of the steering column (up and down as well as side to side) by loosening the two nuts inside the car where the steering column tube meets the floor. You want the steering column to be pointing exactly at the steering gear. Once you attach the flexible coupling to the steering column flange you can pull the plastic spacers and throw them away. The stop pins on the flexible coupling should be central in the slots of the steering column flange.

There is a procedure for aligning the steering column and the steering gear in the AIM.
Jim

 

Jim
They no longer come with chocks. I had a lot of them too over the years and they're all gone.

 

Correct that it's a 1968, but the steering column doesn't telescope. Thanks for the information the recommendation on part #. I've read some of your other stuff and truly appreciate all the help.

Any recommendations on a good place to purchase that OEM part online? Regarding the pics, you're welcome to use them for your site. You guys have already helped me solve 2-3 issues with my car, and that wouldn't have been possible unless someone had shared the information.

 

Quick question... is this likely related to the clicking I am hearing in the steering column? It wasn't making any noise until a few days ago and now there's a noticeable click.

 

The flexible coupling is available at the Zip Store:
http://www.zip-products.com/Corvette...0B5DD4559C5265
Available at Corvette Steering Service
http://www.corvettesteering.com/corvette%20parts.htm
Also available a www.gmpartsdirect.com by plugging in the correct GM part number.

If you see the flexible coupling for something like $49 it is most likely made offshore. If the cost is roughly $89 it is most likely a GM part.

From your picture it appears that you will still need a 7807271 pinch bolt. You will also have to purchase a 3/8-24 nut and lockwasher and a 5/16-24 nut and lockwasher.
Jim

 

Thanks again Jim. In the picture on Zip, is that silver rag joint the same as the black rubber one in my pictures? Also, if I understand this correctly, if I buy the one on Zip's website, I'll still need the pinch bolt #7807271 plus the nuts and lock washer (3/8-24 & 5/26-24)? I'm going to order everything and have a buddy help me work on it.

http://www.zip-products.com/Corvette...0B5DD4559C5265

 

The photos were about what I had, but mine was the original part after 35 years under the hood... I never let it get to knocking, but I knew that mine was getting bad. So I searched here and used Jim Shea's excellent papers to order parts (GMPartsOnline had a good price on the OEM GM piece along with the pinch bolt) per the part numbers that Jim gives in his white paper. My only observation was that I had to remove all three frame bolts from the steering box to free it up enough to rotate it and access the old part for removal. Removing two and rotating the box just would not get me there... Really, after pulling the third nut and pushing the bolt back flush to the inside of the frame, the box was more or less removed from the car and only retained by the pitman arm which I did not remove or unhook from the linkage. It sure was fun getting those three nuts off the box bolts, I can tell you! Then to reinstall the box, I had to access one of the bolt heads by removing some fender splash covers... Luckily the box to column adjustment was spot-on so no further adjustments were required - good thing, as I also got no plastic spacers for adjusting... I used a new bolt to secure the coupler to the steering box shaft, but I reused the old nuts and washers and snugged them down on the bolts protruding from the new part to hand wrench tightness - which also squished the rubber just a bit between the fastener ends...is this OK? So, I did get it all sorted out and the whole job took maybe 5 hours at an easy pace on a beautiful Sunday afternoon. Of course, now my steering wheel is positioned maybe 30 degrees to the right of center when driving straight ahead...but the alignment remains perfect. I'm sure they had quite wide range of wheel slop when aligning and did the best they could to get the wheel centered. Much less slop now! Any trick to DIY turning the tie rod ends to bring my wheel back to center? It basically needs to "steer slightly to the CCW (like going left)" while not letting the wheels move to have the spokes come back to 3 and 9. They are now at 4:30 and 10:30 when I drive straight down the road if you catch my meaning here... I hate to spend at least $100 in having wheels aligned when I know they are good...except for the annoyance of incorrect steering wheel position while seated in the car.

Result? Wow! What a difference in steering! No more wander and the effect is to have the steering at least twice as responsive as before - easily now within spec for a road trip. Seeing as the rest of my suspension is refreshed I will have the box rebuilt if steering slop again becomes an issue...

Thanks Jim - and forum members for the info I needed to order, then install these parts!