Picked up a used 18' featherlite open car trailer over the weekend. Need to know the best way to tie down a '73. The trailer has four "D" rings. Also, what do you suggest for tie down straps. Pictures greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

Get four axle straps. They are 2" wide and about 16" long with a triangle-shaped ring at either end. If you have torque thrusts as wheels or any custom wheel with a large enough hole to feed the strap through, tie off each wheel. If not, loop the strap around the bat wing, (or diff support) and ratchet to that in the back. In the front, you can lasso the bumper support and ratchet that down. Corvette suspension doesn't lend itself to tieing down very well. Not like alot of the cars on the road. If you get ratchet straps that have a single hook no bigger than a half inch, you can use the factory tie down points in the frame in-board of the wheels. When you tie it down, make sure you compress the suspension at least three inches. Any less and it'll work loose. I do this for a living, I've towed hundreds of cars, thousands of miles without an issue. (knock on wood) I just towed my C-3 from Nashville, Tn. back here to west central Louisiana (about 850 miles) and only had to adjust the straps once. (On a long trip it's good to check anyway to make sure the car didn't settle and loosen up) Your ratchet straps should be the 2-2 1/2 inch web. (10,000 lb.) They'll hold up just fine. I replace mine about every two years or so. ...but like I said, I do this for a living. Hope this all helps.

 

earthquake68, thanks for the informative info. It's great hearing from a professional like yourself. Can you suggest a source for purchasing the straps you mention. Thanks again

 

I use good quality tie-down and axle straps to keep the vehicle in place. Don't risk carrying your car with anything not rated for your cars weight (or more). These ratcheting ones from summit are rated @10K lbs each. The axle straps are rated @5k lbs each.





Follow earthquakes suggestions and you'll be fine. BTW: you're going to like that trailer. They tow straight and so easy; I keep checking it's still behind me. LOL.



Good luck.

 

Thanks for the pics and source for the straps. I see you also have a featherlite. I pulled it empty coming home after making the purchase and agree, this trailer pulls very easy. What brake controller do you have. I've got to install one and looking for some advice on this as well.

 

This was my choice; it was a little more expensive than units with lesser features but I knew I'd bitch if I hadn't.





The internet can obviously find you a vendor but I wanted to ask questions to an experienced hand while I looked him in the eye. My experience with trailering equipment was limited and I didn't want to be jaded with smoke and mirrors [and you know when most folks are lying to you, face to face]. I looked up a local trailer supply house and went to visit; came away with this Tekonsha unit and couldn't be happier in selection.

Hope this helps.

 

Hey DropTop: by the way. I have 2 projects currently taking up garage space and on occassion have a need to move them.

No big deal when they're running and you can drive on or off but when it's just dead weight, I find it challenging to find extra muscle willing to help push or pull a dead one around, especially if the beer fridge is in need of replenishment (what? no beer? sorry, man... uh, my cat needs a bath...).

I bought and mounted the alum box then stuffed a Superwinch in it (this one's rated @4500 lbs). This piece allows me to load and unload solo and in total [safe] control with a 30' controller lead in the other hand while steering the car. I'm a geek about dragging cars around and tend to count time as a valuable commodity. Beats the alternatives. Just my .02.

 

Dustup7T2. Another great post reply with outstanding info and pics to boot. You have been extremely helpful. I always like to hear from folks that have had experience using specific products. Agree there is a lot of hype on the net and as always, "buyer beware". Many thanks for your help. Looking forward to getting this trailer ready for use.

 

DO NOT try to cover the car unless you do a complete wrap. The cover will flap like he!! and chew the heck out of your paint. If you are stopping somewhere for the night, THEN you want to put a cover on the car to protect it (and make it not so noticible to thieves/vandals). As mentioned, tie down the wheels/frame.

 

 

You can go to Tractor Supply and get the ratchet straps you need, or like was mentioned, Summit. Just be sure to check the rating of the strap, That's the important thing. If you get the 10,000 lb straps, they'll hold onto just about anything. Also when you store them, keep them away from oil, grease and sunlight. This will shorten the life of the straps considerably.

 

Thses work excellant with the axle straps, just don't use this kind of hook in the frame. On a long trip it can tear the frame if you use the factory tie down points.

 

Here is the best price for the complete set needed I found on the 10,000# straps.

http://www.trailer-parts-forless.com...down.html#FOUR

Trailered over 4000 miles this last summer with these.

When gas was 4 bucks a gallon of course.

 

I use the factory installed tie down points. That is what they are there for.

If you do not know where they are, there are two oval shaped holes in the frame right behind the front sway bar attach points and two oval shaped holes in the frame cross member in front of the rear wheels.

Also, make sure you know how to use a ratchet strap. By this I mean be sure that you have ratcheted at least three complete turns on the strap. Anything less and you may not have the friction necessary to keep the strap from slipping. Also always close the ratchet mechanism after ratcheting it tight. I double strap the rear setup with two straight pulls and two straps x'ed. Maybe overkill but I have been trailering for many years up and down mountains and haven't had a problem yet.

As has been mentioned before, stop after about 25 miles or so to recheck tension on your straps after they have had a chance to settle in.

I am trailering ~7000 lbs with a 24' enclosed trailer so I also set my tongue weight to ~700 lbs. (measured with a bathroom scale and a lever setup) and use a equalizer hitch. Make sure that your hitch ball is rated above your maximum weight. I have seen 6000 lb. ***** on 7000 lb. or heavier trailers. This doesn't all apply to your setup but towing is a great place for a little over kill. Piece of mind is a wonderful thing!



http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...70_43572_43572

 

Here are two good links:

http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/d...r3.html#Buying



http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1914225