Not to pick this car apart but...

70 LS-5 should have flash chrome valve covers with dripper spot welds visible.(Clearly not original here). Radio ***** are clearly not original. My July built 70 Ls-5 does have one exhaust manifold with plugged air holes which I believe are original but the plugs in this car's picture do not look the same as the factory originals. Check for the correct Q-jet carb, water pump and alternator (carb >$500 for rebuildable core, correct water pump $275+, correct alternator >$300 for rebuildable core). The side louvers look to have exposed chrome on the verticals in addition to horizontals. 70's were only chrome on horizontals.

Be careful with this one. Alot of inconsistencies for a $30k price tag on an LS-5 coupe in a soft market.

 

You guys are awesome. Potentially saving me alot of grief.

vettali.. If your going by tomorrrow. See if you can spot anything else or verify if it;s a clone or just parts that changed along the way of 38yrs.

Check the carb or anything else if you can. (I'd be blessed with whatever info you came back with.. Good or bad..

The Tach/ wrong chrome on Side Louvers/ Missing air cleaner stickers/ missing ignition shield.. Alot of things are not adding up.

Without finding out from this forum I would be going in blind.
Thanks guys.

 

It has the Canada-only oil change sticker under the hood. I wouldn't go any further until you find out what GM Canada's records say.

 

Center grille is missing and it looks like it has 71-72 left and right front grilles. I don't see anything in the ad suggesting that it is all original, but I don't think it is worth $30k. I would think it should be in the sub $25k range, but hard to tell from pictures alone.

 

Mike Ward,..... GOOD EYE.

I am definitely going to ask for GM documentation.

Or I'll ask for the VIN and do a run myself

That sticker would mean that the car was sold in Ontario Canada?
Would that be accurate?

 

Your half shafts should be caps and not u bolts, you should have a rear stabilizer bar, if u bolts, then its not a heavy duty rear end that is standard in BB, if no rear stabilizer, then its not a heavy duty rear end, it is a base car,

casting code on block must be 3963512, date code prior to birthday of the car from 2 weeks to 6 months... the stamping pad should be free of paint with broach marks and correct fonts and spacing of characters.

it should have a copper radiator with expansion tank...

that tach redline is a major flag that it is a base car, it is really hard to find a BB tach and replace it so they probably did not do it..

also look for "HU" tags on the front springs.. alot of time these are gone though..

the plugs on the manifolds means they are not original, another major flag..

this car if documented and had/has original engine would be worth more than 30K...

this car with a replacement motor and originally a big block would be worth less..

this car that was originally a base car SB and transformed to a big block, would be a lot less...

there are probably 20 other things we can tell you... if you are looking at 30K, do your homework, decide what it is worth to you..

I myself don't really care about the matching numbers game.. only in resaleability... but if you buy a bb that was not originally a bb, then you will struggle selling it as your customer base is less...

 

joewill

This info you provided with resepct to the half shafts being Caps not U Bolts and engine casting code will be extremely useful.
Also I will check to see if it has a rear sway bar.

I will be asking for GM documentation.. Heck it only cost like $50 - $60

Thank you

 

Hey guys,

Well just spoke to the representative and ask him for the VIN # as it appears the car was sold in Oshawa Canada. So their must be a GM Historic Documentation from GM Canada. Canada had all the records of Canadian cars sold over here.

I asked him for the VIN # and it will be at my cost.
I told him I just want to confirm if it an original Big Block car.

He said "We don't give VIN numbers out, and he'll get back to me to see if they are able to"

Let's see the outcome of this scenario.

 

Run Forest.

Either of these will help. Worth the cost of a copy, especially when five figure asking prices are involved..

 

They don't give VIN numbers out? Why, what have they got to hide? What if you want to run it by your insurance company to see what they will charge to insure it? Granted you don't need the VIN for an estimate but a VIn would be most accurate.

I advise extreme caution. At best, this dealer doesn't know what he has or what it's worth and at worst he's trying to scam you by selling you a car that never eixsted.

cc

 

They won't give Vin #?, it is easilly seen if you visit the car?
That is another major question mark...
you have the right to do your research and diligence..
this only opens up more distrust...

 

That's BS!! If they want to make a sale and are a straight up firm with a reputation, then there should be no hesitation giving you the VIN to confirm what the car was when it left the factory, especially for the price they are asking.
I'm getting the feeling you may do better to keep looking if they are not forthcoming with the information, and all the things that have been pointed out that are wrong with this car.
Don't rush into this. It's a lot of money.
Glenn

 

It means the car would have been sold anywhere in Canada, not just the (have not) province of Ontario.

I see you've already spoken to GM in Oshawa. If the seller won't disclose the VIN, run away like others have said.