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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 11:42 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by DWncchs
Thanks to vettesbydesign and 74Blackfoot for the vote of confidence.

nomomopars...These 74 systems with the seat belt interlock are a real pain to diagnose if your not used to the way the system works but in your case with the wiring being altered from factory it might be best to temporarily bypass the seatbelt interlock system to get you back on the road.You can always reattach the interlock later if you want the system to work like it was intended.

Do yourself a big favor and buy a wiring diagram set from Doc Rebuild for your 74 it will make your life much easier while working on the wiring.These diagrams are like none other,seriously I'm considering framing mine and hanging them on my wall.

You said earlier you can hear clicking when you turn the key to start,I'm guessing that is "not" the starter solenoid but is the interlock relay.Cargo247 posted a thread link that shows a pic of the relay mounted to the firewall with the little button it.
Do you have this relay still on your car?
Also what do you have to work with in the way of tools-hopefully a 12v testlight or voltmeter?
Look at the starter solenoid and tell me what wires you have going to the small terminals on the solenoid.Especially the small terminal closest to the block term "S".

Just for a quicky guess here is something you can try until you answer the questions.
Put the 2 wire connector back on the clutch switch(neutral safety switch) and note the color of the 2 wires-should be purple with a white stripe and a green with a black stripe.
Next pull off the interlock relay that was in the pic posted by Cargo exposing an orange connector with 4 wires in it - look for the purple wire and the green w black stripe wires-now put a jumper between the 2 wires.
Now try to start the engine while pushing in on the clutch.(we will worry about your stuck in reverse issue after we get the engine to crank)
If your lucky this will get your engine started but if it doesnt and you get me some wire color info we'll get you going soon.
Wiring issues-fun fun fun.
. what he said
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 12:15 PM
  #22  
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here are the wires to the solenoid:

connected to the post with the battery cable is a red wire with fusibale link, above that is an insulated wire that is splice to 2 heavy gauge brown wires, then there is the smaller gauge isulated wire that appears to go to the coil. i hope this helps.
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 12:39 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by nomomopars
here are the wires to the solenoid:

connected to the post with the battery cable is a red wire with fusibale link, above that is an insulated wire that is splice to 2 heavy gauge brown wires, then there is the smaller gauge isulated wire that appears to go to the coil. i hope this helps.
The smaller gauge wire is the one you need to chase. It should go to the small post on the solenoid closest to the block. That is the "S" or start wire. track that one- it should go up, cross the rear of the engine and into the firewall connector at the engine side of the fuse block. If you posted it, I missed it- Automatic or manual trans?
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 12:45 PM
  #24  
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I grabbed this off the Doc Rebuild site. Hope it helps.
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 01:09 PM
  #25  
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got it to turn over. the solid wire had come loose between the clutch safety switch and the clutch pedal.
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 05:38 PM
  #26  
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Blackfoot, the clutch switch is under the dash, mounted on the steering column support and has a rod that snaps into the clutch pedal arm. Simple 2 pin connector.

And yes, it the switch is bad the starter will not click.
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