Repainting "DYING" Interior help
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Naples Florida
Repainting "DYING" Interior help
I have been toying with the fact replacing all my interior and changing it all to black.. Well that process will dent my wallet for along time.. I think i wanna try painting / dying all my panels.. Does anyone have any steps and before and after pics and what were the results?? I talked to a guy today about it and he says.. take some steel wool.. light weight steel wool.. primer it.. wool it again. and paint it.. then use a clear coat spray after!! I have been reading about the SEM paint.. I am gonna go that route!! I really appreciate all the help
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 0
From: Tampa FL
I've never been really successful with this at the areas that see a lot of rubbing (seats and door panels). Dash, pillars, etc. always come out fine and last, but the problem with the spray dyes is that they're really just on top of it and all it takes is one little scratch. I've done the "proper prep" on at least a dozen vehicles and it's fine for short term but eventually it's always had to be redone. I've tried all of the brands, they're all pretty much the same. Everyone says SEM is a superior product and maybe it is in some areas, but it didn't seem to hold up any better than anything else. On the harder early year panels you might get away with it, but on the leather ones on later years it will eventually come off. Basically anything that flexes (leather-like vinyl, leather, cloth) doesn't ever seem to hold it.
But again this is just my own experience. I always recommend trying it first since you have little to lose, the cost of the spray isn't much especially when compared to new panels. If it doesn't work out you can always just buy it in the right color later.
But again this is just my own experience. I always recommend trying it first since you have little to lose, the cost of the spray isn't much especially when compared to new panels. If it doesn't work out you can always just buy it in the right color later.
Last edited by Ron R; Dec 29, 2008 at 08:04 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,938
Likes: 2
From: Arkansas
I wouldn't hit it with steel wool, all you need to do is scrub the parts with soapy water, rinse, dry
Then spray a light coat of the Sem product, let it tack up, then spray a heavier coat....I usually do this three for four times until it's covered evenly. No clear coat needed.
But you get the best results when the weather is 70 degrees or higher. I never try to spray this stuff in any temp lower than that. I personally wait until late spring / early summer before I do any recoloring.
Then spray a light coat of the Sem product, let it tack up, then spray a heavier coat....I usually do this three for four times until it's covered evenly. No clear coat needed.
But you get the best results when the weather is 70 degrees or higher. I never try to spray this stuff in any temp lower than that. I personally wait until late spring / early summer before I do any recoloring.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,623
Likes: 22
From: Boise Idaho
St. Jude Donor '09-'10, '15, '17
Yeah one scratch can cause a headache because then you have to re-paint the entire piece or try to blend it in with a so-so chance at it turning out not noticeable.
I've had very good results with re-dyeing something the same color like for seats and not as great results with color changes especially on door panels, namely having to redo them every few months on the worst one I did. (The paint would wind up flaking off). I've used about four or five brands, but SEM seems to be the standard most people recommend as the best.
Do you really hate your current interior color that much? You know if you sell people don't want to see a color change from the trim tag.
I've had very good results with re-dyeing something the same color like for seats and not as great results with color changes especially on door panels, namely having to redo them every few months on the worst one I did. (The paint would wind up flaking off). I've used about four or five brands, but SEM seems to be the standard most people recommend as the best.
Do you really hate your current interior color that much? You know if you sell people don't want to see a color change from the trim tag.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,209
Likes: 12
From: Montgomery Alabama
Cruise-In VII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '06
I have heard that cleaning, cleaning, then cleaning some more, using a tack rag to remove all oils and dirt, then applying an adhesion promoter is a must before covering plastic or vinyl pieces with the dye.
Good luck with the color change.
If the interior pieces need to be re-dyed I wouldn't see the problem with dying it black or staying with the original color. Either way, you are dying the interior.
Nothing lasts forever. My 2000 console is scratched around the cup holder from my wife's cell phone and iPod. The factory finish is coming off.
Good luck with the color change.
If the interior pieces need to be re-dyed I wouldn't see the problem with dying it black or staying with the original color. Either way, you are dying the interior.
Nothing lasts forever. My 2000 console is scratched around the cup holder from my wife's cell phone and iPod. The factory finish is coming off.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,938
Likes: 2
From: Arkansas
I just pulled my door panels from my 2000 S10 yesterday and noticed color is rubbing off at the armrest handle.
It looks like it was molded in black and sprayed pewter gray from the factory. I've owned the truck since it had less than 2000 miles on it so I'm pretty sure it came that way.
This spring I'm going to get some new carpet and a quart of factory color mixed at the paint store and go over some of the pieces in my truck to "freshen" it up.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,970
Likes: 91
I have been toying with the fact replacing all my interior and changing it all to black.. Well that process will dent my wallet for along time.. I think i wanna try painting / dying all my panels.. Does anyone have any steps and before and after pics and what were the results?? I talked to a guy today about it and he says.. take some steel wool.. light weight steel wool.. primer it.. wool it again. and paint it.. then use a clear coat spray after!! I have been reading about the SEM paint.. I am gonna go that route!! I really appreciate all the help
At least you have the option of getting solid black to match your interior
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,173
Likes: 1
From: Liberty Missouri
I have gone the route you are talking about. I changed my interior color from gunmetal gray over to black.. I was/am happy with the results; however I changed the seats and bought new door panels. I was concerned about the wear areas as others have mentioned. It held up good on other cars in the lower traffic areas that I have used it on. I had my local automotive paint supply store mix me some dye (DuPont). None of this is rocket science just labor intensive. Take your time and follow the directions to the letter and you will be fine. Like another poster said the warmer the better, the pours open up to better accept the dye.
Before
After
Before
After
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,546
Likes: 5
From: Sacramento California
I did an entire interior, minus the seats using SEM products. Just like any paint job the end result is only as good as the prep work. In my case I dyed my pieces oxblood, the door panels were white, dash pad dark blue, kick panels gold, armrest bases black, and the tonneu cover was red. That was back in 1995, it is a convertible and has seen a lot of wear and tear in the sun. Here is what I have experienced. All of the vinyl has held up far better than I expected, the kick panels that are hard plastic seem to scratch pretty easily, I think it is the panel itself due to the petroleum being baked out of them over time. The key is having a very clean surface and using the adhesion promoter, and following the instructions exactly to the letter. Oh and did I say Clean clean clean the surface!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Naples Florida
Thanks.. I sence the prep work is very important... Just soap and water huh??? Anyone use anything else to clean with?? Well being in south florida. Its been over 80 the past week 
so the temp part shouldnt be a problem.. I guess ill just start with a small piece and go from there!!
And to answer the poster who said if i plan to get rid off. NOT EVER GONNA HAPPEN.. SHES MINE THEN SHE GETS PASTED ON!! im only 31 i think i have a few years with her i hope!!
Also The car was painted black way back i just dont LOVE the blue interior..
Another question.. I need to replace a few pieces such as the window post moldings.. i know black is black do u think im gonna tell a diffence when its butted up to my dyed pieces!!!
so the temp part shouldnt be a problem.. I guess ill just start with a small piece and go from there!! And to answer the poster who said if i plan to get rid off. NOT EVER GONNA HAPPEN.. SHES MINE THEN SHE GETS PASTED ON!! im only 31 i think i have a few years with her i hope!!
Also The car was painted black way back i just dont LOVE the blue interior..
Another question.. I need to replace a few pieces such as the window post moldings.. i know black is black do u think im gonna tell a diffence when its butted up to my dyed pieces!!!
Drifting
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,546
Likes: 5
From: Sacramento California
I have used black on another project, don't purchase gloss! It doesnt look good when done. Go with a semi gloss and if it's not shiny enough after it cures you can always use some products like armour all to bring up a gloss.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,173
Likes: 1
From: Liberty Missouri
Thanks.. I sence the prep work is very important... Just soap and water huh??? Anyone use anything else to clean with?? Well being in south florida. Its been over 80 the past week so the temp part shouldnt be a problem.. I guess ill just start with a small piece and go from there!!
And to answer the poster who said if i plan to get rid off. NOT EVER GONNA HAPPEN.. SHES MINE THEN SHE GETS PASTED ON!! im only 31 i think i have a few years with her i hope!!
Also The car was painted black way back i just dont LOVE the blue interior..
Another question.. I need to replace a few pieces such as the window post moldings.. i know black is black do u think im gonna tell a diffence when its butted up to my dyed pieces!!!
so the temp part shouldnt be a problem.. I guess ill just start with a small piece and go from there!! And to answer the poster who said if i plan to get rid off. NOT EVER GONNA HAPPEN.. SHES MINE THEN SHE GETS PASTED ON!! im only 31 i think i have a few years with her i hope!!
Also The car was painted black way back i just dont LOVE the blue interior..
Another question.. I need to replace a few pieces such as the window post moldings.. i know black is black do u think im gonna tell a diffence when its butted up to my dyed pieces!!!
Simi gloss seems to be close the repo parts. On mine the parts I sprayed looked a bit glossy so I rubbed them down with 3M adhesive remover and they match great now. The adhesive remover wont remove the dye but it will dull it just a bit. I found that out by accident. I had got some adhesive on one of the pillar posts and when I used the remover it matched perfect.