Front bearing replacement
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,483
Likes: 1
From: Bay Area CA
Front bearing replacement
I think I am infected with the "while I am at it" disease. 
Started a brake replacement project on my 69. I noticed that the front bearings were making some noise and I decided to replace them since I am putting new brakes and rotors.
How do you remove the seal and the racers from the hub?
Are there any special tools needed to remove and install the new ones?
Started a brake replacement project on my 69. I noticed that the front bearings were making some noise and I decided to replace them since I am putting new brakes and rotors.
How do you remove the seal and the racers from the hub?
Are there any special tools needed to remove and install the new ones?
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 5
From: South of London, Engerland
I did this, and if I can do it then anybody can. 
Remove cap from rotor and castle nut + tabbed washer from spindle:
Rotor slides off spindle:
At the rear of rotor you can see inner bearing retained by the seal:
Push the bearing through from the other side with a large socket, forcing the seal out of the rotor. This will probably damage the seal:
Watch out for the card dust seal on the back of the spindle:
The two outer races are pressed into the rotor but there are clear places in the casting where you can locate a drift to tap them out. I didn't do this bit because mine were in good enough condition to re-use, but it didn't look as though you'd need special tools provided you're careful.
The new seals just press in with a (clean) block of wood or something to spread the load so they slide in evenly:
Job done.
Remove cap from rotor and castle nut + tabbed washer from spindle:
Rotor slides off spindle:
At the rear of rotor you can see inner bearing retained by the seal:
Push the bearing through from the other side with a large socket, forcing the seal out of the rotor. This will probably damage the seal:
Watch out for the card dust seal on the back of the spindle:
The two outer races are pressed into the rotor but there are clear places in the casting where you can locate a drift to tap them out. I didn't do this bit because mine were in good enough condition to re-use, but it didn't look as though you'd need special tools provided you're careful.
The new seals just press in with a (clean) block of wood or something to spread the load so they slide in evenly:
Job done.
Last edited by BenUK; Jan 12, 2009 at 09:31 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
Seals come out easily. Just put a screwdriver under the hard part of the seal and pry up gently going all around the seal.
If you clean the grease out of the inner hub you will see spaces cast into the hub that allow you to put a screwdirver or drift into the space and drive the races out. Tap them out evenly and be careful not to gouge the surface.
Put the new races in the freezer for a couple of hours before installing them and they will drive in easier.
Rick B.
If you clean the grease out of the inner hub you will see spaces cast into the hub that allow you to put a screwdirver or drift into the space and drive the races out. Tap them out evenly and be careful not to gouge the surface.
Put the new races in the freezer for a couple of hours before installing them and they will drive in easier.
Rick B.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
It looks like Ben was repacking his bearings and replacing the seal. If your bearings are noisy you should replace the entire bearing. The first of Ben's pics with the glove show him holding the bearing and seal. The metal that is still showing in the hub is the outer race. That has to be removed in order to repalce the entire bearing. Don't put a new bearing into an old outer race, you will be wasting time and money.
Rick B.
Rick B.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 5
From: South of London, Engerland
You may be able to get the seals out undamaged too, but mine didn't survive and I'd recommend you get new seals while you're ordering the new bearings, or you might be waiting for a second shipment.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,589
Likes: 5
From: Salisbury Maryland
I've been in the bearing business 23 years, you couldn't be more right. The outer race MUST be replaced at the same time. Otherwise, it's like replacing the road when you're tires are worn. It will only be a matter of time before you'll be doing it again, right.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,483
Likes: 1
From: Bay Area CA
I am replacing both the bearings, races and seal. I ordered a pair of front bearing kits from VB&P.
http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=585
Guys, how tight should I tighten the castle nuts after installing the new bearings? Is there a torque spec for this? The shop manual does not say much.
http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=585
Guys, how tight should I tighten the castle nuts after installing the new bearings? Is there a torque spec for this? The shop manual does not say much.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
5 MOST and 5 LEAST Popular Corvette Model Years in History!
Joe Kucinski
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,133
Likes: 3,938
From: Connecticut, USA
Use Timken bearings, made in the USA.
To remove the seal,place the rotor on the spindle with the outer bearing off, install the nut& washer back on and pull the rotor hard to you. It will pop the seal right out. Use a drift to drive out the races and to install. If you are not good with this then get a piece of flat stock to start the race and then one of those aluminum drivers to install.
Use a good grease, I was using Mobil1 but found a change in it during the last rear bearing job I did so I'm going to use Timkens grease based on the recommendation from Timken directly.
Snug the nut when adjusting to seat them, rotate in the forward direction, back off, tighten, back off tighten by hand, back off to first hole,put in the pin and check endplay and dial in rotor runout.
There's a lot of info on this here and on the other forums.
To remove the seal,place the rotor on the spindle with the outer bearing off, install the nut& washer back on and pull the rotor hard to you. It will pop the seal right out. Use a drift to drive out the races and to install. If you are not good with this then get a piece of flat stock to start the race and then one of those aluminum drivers to install.
Use a good grease, I was using Mobil1 but found a change in it during the last rear bearing job I did so I'm going to use Timkens grease based on the recommendation from Timken directly.
Snug the nut when adjusting to seat them, rotate in the forward direction, back off, tighten, back off tighten by hand, back off to first hole,put in the pin and check endplay and dial in rotor runout.
There's a lot of info on this here and on the other forums.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,483
Likes: 1
From: Bay Area CA
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,133
Likes: 3,938
From: Connecticut, USA
I still can get the USA bearings unless they make them overseas and stamp them USA? I have seen other then USA ones though so look them over when you get them.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,483
Likes: 1
From: Bay Area CA
Installing them this morning.
Couple of tech questions.
Is this (from Timken website) the right procedure for setting the bearing?
How much grease is just sufficient? Timken's brochure says not to over grease.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,006
Likes: 28
From: Lutz Florida
I went ahead and put the Polish bearings in and haven't had any problems, but my car only gets a couple of thousand miles on it a year.
I still wasn't too happy when I read "made in Poland" on the boxes after I got them home and ready to install.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,133
Likes: 3,938
From: Connecticut, USA
The genuine Timkins I got at Autozone two years ago were made in Poland (fronts, inner and outer sets, w/races). The Timkin seals were made in Taiwan. Maybe Timkin has a lower cost DIY product they sell thru the discount auto parts stores and still have a "professional" grade (USA made) sold thru parts wholesalers? I was looking for good, not cheap.
I went ahead and put the Polish bearings in and haven't had any problems, but my car only gets a couple of thousand miles on it a year.
I still wasn't too happy when I read "made in Poland" on the boxes after I got them home and ready to install.
I went ahead and put the Polish bearings in and haven't had any problems, but my car only gets a couple of thousand miles on it a year.
I still wasn't too happy when I read "made in Poland" on the boxes after I got them home and ready to install.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 281
Likes: 9
From: New England
GTR1999
I just got done replacing my front bearings , went with Timkin because I wanted USA made, after they were all in I looked at the packaging and I noticed that all but one set of bearings were made in the USA one set was made in Poland. I did not feel like taking it back out but I am assuming that it has to meet the Timkin specifications.
I'm not to concerned because I am a retired Engineer from Pratt & Whitney Aircraft and many of our Engine parts are made there too.
Chinese made, I would be a little leary.
I just got done replacing my front bearings , went with Timkin because I wanted USA made, after they were all in I looked at the packaging and I noticed that all but one set of bearings were made in the USA one set was made in Poland. I did not feel like taking it back out but I am assuming that it has to meet the Timkin specifications.
I'm not to concerned because I am a retired Engineer from Pratt & Whitney Aircraft and many of our Engine parts are made there too.
Chinese made, I would be a little leary.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 716
Likes: 1
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
I redid mine recently and yes tTimlkens currently made in Poland. Doesn't concern me though. Couple things worth mentioning:
One of my races pressed into position and then small amount of play - you could move it side to side in the hub. Not good so I got a used Hub from Duntov for about $60. I used a brassh punch to remove the old races so would not scratch anything. Put it on a block of wood and pound them out from the opposite side.
Another helpful tip - use the old race as an installation tool for the new race. If you grind down the OD slightly it makes for the perfect installation tool.
One of my races pressed into position and then small amount of play - you could move it side to side in the hub. Not good so I got a used Hub from Duntov for about $60. I used a brassh punch to remove the old races so would not scratch anything. Put it on a block of wood and pound them out from the opposite side.
Another helpful tip - use the old race as an installation tool for the new race. If you grind down the OD slightly it makes for the perfect installation tool.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,336
Likes: 786
From: Redondo Beach, California
You should ask them!! I bought bearings without asking from THE OTHER suspension part vendor in Florida and received bearings made in Romania and Japan. If you want suspension parts made in the USA, the only vendor that advertises USA parts is Tom's Differentials. They sell bearings and all the other stuff. I bought a set of made in the US Timken bearings packaged in their original AC Delco boxes from Dr. Rebuild. The bearings are stamped made in the USA, so they are the real deal. They were a little pricey!! - $100 each set!
Last edited by 68/70Vette; Jan 25, 2009 at 12:24 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,483
Likes: 1
From: Bay Area CA
Guys, I tend to think that Timken bearings, no matter which part of the world they are manufactured in, will be made to the same standards.
Manufactured in China by a large brand is different from cheap Chinese import.
I don't mean to offend anyone by this comment and thanks to all who helped
Manufactured in China by a large brand is different from cheap Chinese import.
I don't mean to offend anyone by this comment and thanks to all who helped