How much grease do you put on the end of the spindle and in the "cup" before attaching the u-joint plate? I have seen some pics on here where they really filled up the whole cup as well as gobed it on the spindle. I am not sure what good that does and I do not want grease spinning all over the place when this is on the car. As you can see I have greased it once but then had second thoughts as to if this is enough?

 

I don't put any grease on the end of the spindle or the flange, no need. The grease is for the bearings and is to be contained behind the seals only. Also your picture shows the support legs in the wrong position, they're over the bump stop?

 

Thanks very much. Actually you saved me some time as I had one side done with no grease and then I saw a thread on here where the person really had a lot and I just firgured it must need it. As I was doing this side I kept wondering what good it did as it will never get into the bearing.

I guess I should have asked before I did this side. I am sure what little I have in there won't hurt anything and I can wipe most of it off.

 

I just saw your comment on the arm position and I hadn't even noticed. I had the arm off and just set it in place for the pic. Having said that I probably would have bolted it up if you hadn't mentioned it - memory isn't all it used to be. I will be sure to turn it around. Thanks

 

Nice example of the value of this Forum!

 

I have never had to assemble something more than 3 times.



Rick B.

 

the first 2 times were just for practice. YOu just wanted to be sure you know how to assemble it before you did it for the final time.

I can't do any plumbing around the house without at least 3 trips to the hardware store. First one gets what I "think" I'm going to need, 2nd trip is to get what I really need, and the 3rd trip gets the rest of what I need. And then lots of times a 4th trip to take back what I didn't need.

 

No plumbing job is done without 3 trips to the hardware store. It's a law of nature. I keep what I don't need for next time.

 

Rookie. Experience shows it goes like this:

1st trip: Get the stuff you think you need.
2nd trip: Get the stuff you need, that you didn't think of on the first trip.
3rd trip: Get the stuff you need to deal with the unexpected problems you ran into.
4th trip: Get more of the stuff you got in the 1st and 2nd trips that got ruined when you installed something improperly, or tried unsuccesfully to install without dealing with the unexpected problems you ran into along the way.
5th trip: Replace the tool that you broke doing the job improperly again that you now need to replace in order to complete the job properly. Obtaining more of the stuff from the 1st, 2nd and 3rd trips that has gotten ruined along the way is optional here, and only for the truly advanced.
6th trip: Get the stuff from the 1st, 2nd and 3rd trips that got ruined again (Note: the truly experienced may be able to skip this step if they exercised the aforementioned option on the 5th trip).
7th trip: Return everything that isn't completely ruined, swearing that the stuff looked like that when you bought it.

I gained so much experience with this process, I developed a new process for home plumbing repair:

Step 1: Determine if the problem is as simple as changing the flapper on the toilet, or replacing a faucet or cartridge in a faucet:

If yes:

Step 2: Follow essentially the procedure laid out above, but due to advanced knowledge and experience, I can usually keep it down to a 5-trip repair (read - fast!)

If no:

Step 2: Call Rich the plumber and ask him to stop by the house.

Feel free to use my new process as you see fit

 

Gary does these in his sleep, I would listen to what he has to say.

 

It is not that simple. You are going to need to buy a new left rear trailing arm. The arm which is on it is for the right side of the car. There is a difference between the left and right trailing arms.

 

No it is that simple. I just laid the arm - the same arm on the same spindle for the past 35 years - on the wrong way when I took the picture. It took me 2 minutes to lift it off and put it on the other way.

 

Here are the arms almost ready to be put back on - and yes I cleaned up the extra grease

 

Looks good, I'm sure you know, but the RH flange is off. Just in case. Another tip, run a tap in the bracket holes and flange holes if you haven't. It will save you headaches installing. Check the fit of the front bolt in the sleeve before mounting them as well. Use SS french locks not the GM ones torque to 75 ft/lbs. I can't see if you tapped the spindles to bolt on the rotors?? I would. You have the flats on the support pointing to the rear correct?

good luck

 

Yes I know that is off, you can probably notice it is still all covered with tape where I had done a last hit of paint. And I only have the brake on one side as well.

I have been running a tap or die theough everything as it seems impossible to keep 100% of the POR out. I have also been using antisieze on most everything as well.

As for the rotors, no they are not tapped and I have never done that. What type of bolt would you use or would you re-rivet them. I have always just allowed the wheel to hold it in place. I had always thought, perheps incorrectly, that they were riveted from the factory only to hold them in place as they went down the line.

 

Standard 3/8" thread, the existing rivet hole is slightly large for this thread size but it'll work - these bolts don't have to hold too much.

That's one reason. If these arms wre rebuilt professionally there are (were) shims between rotor and hub to keep runout to a minimum. Install the rotor, bolt it onto the hub with five 3/8" bolts and measure runout with a dial indicator.

 

I don't bother re-rivting them no need other then to appear original. They were rivited and then faced on center at assembly to keep runout near or at -0- Rebuilders were not doing this because it's easy to ship them out as is,maybe some do now. Bair will rivet them for you as well. Some will argue it's a waste of time but they're also the ones who say re-using some internal parts on diff and boxes is ok too, so you have to make up your own mind what you and what is "right"

With bolting on you can dial in the runout and hold it there, where everytime time the wheel is changed the runout will change as the lug nuts are tightened. Now if the runout is close then you may not have a problem, say under 005". If you're at 005" then you may have a problem, if you're over 005" I wouldn't use them. In fact I set mine to under 003" There are some things to do in addition to bolting them on but I've already written that all down way too many times, so if you want to see then check the thread. 3/8-24 is the tap size and use flat head bolts- all in my thread. You probably won't find it here anymore, so you'll have to go elsewhere.